Marc Shaw

Hey all,

I am in the process of installing my Fabpseed dual-out exhaust (with heat) but I have a few questions....

1. I usually put copper grease on bolts when I reinstall stuff - can I on the exhaust studs?
2. what is the torque for reinstalling the nuts on the exhaust studs?
3. what do I seal the headers to the case with? exhaust paste? gaskets?

If you look the pictures below there is some orange stuff there and some slim metal gaskets -- do I clean all the orange stuff off and reuse the metal gaskets or what? what do I reuse instead of the orange stuff?

Thanks all - Marc
p.s. all the oil is LiquidWrench as I was terrified of snapping an exhaust stud!

roblav

Clean it all up and use new gaskets and anti-seize on the studs.

Marc Shaw

New metal gaskets or rubbery exhaust gaskets or both? PET only lists one gasket but I don't know what kind it is.

Thanks.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Marc,

Use new sealing rings (metal) after you thoroughly clean off the orange mess. Use no sealant on those new header flanges; if they are flat, they should seal properly with the metal rings.

Use copper-based antiseize on all the studs after you clean them up.

Torque heat exchangers to 23 nm (17 lbs-ft).

Marc Shaw

That's great - thanks, Steve.

Marc

meek

Resurrecting an old thread, but thought it better than starting a new one.

Odd question, but how do you torque the nuts correctly on the exhaust studs? I know, use a torque wrench! I have two, both good quality, but the only two nuts that successfully torque with a satisfying click of the wrench are the barrel nuts. I am guessing this is because the angle of the socket extension to the nut is a simple 90 degrees. To access the hex nuts you have to use a flexible socket head and it seems that my torque wrenches don't like this. I ended up making a best guess on feel as the wrench refused to give a positive click at the desired torque setting and just seemed to want to keep tightening the nuts.

Any advice? Is this a common issue? Should I be using another tool to gauge the correct torque?

Adam.

meek

UPDATE... if anyone is interested.

Having trawled through the web, I have found the unsatisfactory answer that using a flexible/jointed socket or crow's foot with a torque wrench makes it pretty inaccurate. They are specifically designed to use with the head vertical to the nut. As a jointed socket is essential to putting on/removing the stud nuts, I am assuming that everyone makes a 'best guess' by feel rather than the torque wrench reading? Or is there some magic tool that I don't have? How the hell did Porsche do it in the factory or expect anyone to do it post sale?

Vandit

If you put the crowfoot at a 90 degree angle to the drive you don't have to recalculate the torque value.

Anything in-between and you need to recalculate.

More info here.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueE...eExtension.htm

meek

Many thanks Vandit. I will try the crow's foot again, though I don't find I can get onto all of the nuts with it and even when I can I can't get it snugly on. The flexi-socket is the easiest to use, but the worst for calculating the torque as the angle is variable in use. The link is very informative and should be of help. Will see if I can do better than I have so far.