Help, big nut removal, rear wheel carrier
02-09-2010, 12:38 PM
#16
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Can you replace the bearing with the swing arm in the car or do you have to remove the swingarm and use a press to get the bearing and wheel carrier off??? If i have to remove the swing arm i may just wait to do this later.
02-09-2010, 01:30 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Jerry
Why not look into some of the electric impact wrenches? Those multiple impacts do wonders in breaking a fastener loose. Just look at the specs. The one I was looking at, at Home Depot, put out 345 ft-lbs and only took 7.5 amps. If you can find one that is closer to the limit of a 15amp 120v household circuit theoretically you can double the torque and i know with air impact tools there are huge differences in the efficiency of the tools, and I suspect the same for electric impact wrenches. If it doesn't work most stores have a great return policy provided the tool isn't scratched up, just check first. Most you'll be out is the socket and even that won't get marred and can be returned. Just tell them it isn't powerful enough if it doen't work out. If it works on that nut it will probably loosen any other fastener on the car, so you'll get a lot of use out of it. I was thinking of getting one to drive lag bolts into wood as the 18v lithium battery drivers just don't cut it.
Bill
Why not look into some of the electric impact wrenches? Those multiple impacts do wonders in breaking a fastener loose. Just look at the specs. The one I was looking at, at Home Depot, put out 345 ft-lbs and only took 7.5 amps. If you can find one that is closer to the limit of a 15amp 120v household circuit theoretically you can double the torque and i know with air impact tools there are huge differences in the efficiency of the tools, and I suspect the same for electric impact wrenches. If it doesn't work most stores have a great return policy provided the tool isn't scratched up, just check first. Most you'll be out is the socket and even that won't get marred and can be returned. Just tell them it isn't powerful enough if it doen't work out. If it works on that nut it will probably loosen any other fastener on the car, so you'll get a lot of use out of it. I was thinking of getting one to drive lag bolts into wood as the 18v lithium battery drivers just don't cut it.
Bill
02-09-2010, 01:36 PM
#21
I use this.
02-09-2010, 07:05 PM
#23
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If you attempt it with 1/2" drive and a long cheater, be sure to have on goggles and get behind a corner or something solid. You can eject scrapnel when a tool breaks.
02-09-2010, 07:21 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
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Did the same, 3/4" drive + 6' fence post, but had to add a little propane torch heat too! It's a beast.
02-09-2010, 07:46 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
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As far as removing the bearing from the swing arm, it can be done with it in the car. The Manual calls for a special tool.
However, I was abe to follow a thread here to get it out with "Lowe's tools". Get a large bolt and nut, I think it was 1/2" diameter x 8" or 12". Then get a combination of washers, I think they were 1/2" and 3/4" inside diameter. You can run the bolt through the bearing, place the smaller washers on the back side so that they bear on the bearing, and a combination of the small and large washers on the outside so that they bear on the hub. Then tighten down on this homemade bearing puller.
As the bearing comes out, you have to reposition the bolt by adding a spacer, such as a huge socket or pipe nipple, between the hub and bolt to give the bearing room to come out. This may sound confusing (it did to me), but once you sit in front of the wheel with the bolt and washers in your hand, it becomes common sense.
May be a good idea to replace them when you're in there. Those bearings can make a nasty howl when they go out. But it's definitely not an easy job and I would think twice before doing it preemptively. Good luck.
However, I was abe to follow a thread here to get it out with "Lowe's tools". Get a large bolt and nut, I think it was 1/2" diameter x 8" or 12". Then get a combination of washers, I think they were 1/2" and 3/4" inside diameter. You can run the bolt through the bearing, place the smaller washers on the back side so that they bear on the bearing, and a combination of the small and large washers on the outside so that they bear on the hub. Then tighten down on this homemade bearing puller.
As the bearing comes out, you have to reposition the bolt by adding a spacer, such as a huge socket or pipe nipple, between the hub and bolt to give the bearing room to come out. This may sound confusing (it did to me), but once you sit in front of the wheel with the bolt and washers in your hand, it becomes common sense.
May be a good idea to replace them when you're in there. Those bearings can make a nasty howl when they go out. But it's definitely not an easy job and I would think twice before doing it preemptively. Good luck.
