Boeing 717

Hey guys has anyone succesfully removed that big nut that holds the half shaft in the rear wheel hub??? I think its 32mm. I would like to replace the rear wheel bearings if possible while i am doing everything else.

Colin 90 C2

I replaced half shafts in my old SC. I used appropriate sized 3/4" socket and added on an eight foot fence post. I then had to raise car on lift, tension ratchet, and lower car down. easy peasy.

rattlsnak

exactly.. it has @ 330 ft lbs of torque.. i cant remember exactly, but its in a thread around here somewhere..

pantera43

Same here, big 6 ft plumbing pipe and a breaker bar with car on ground.

Dan

dfinnegan

340 ft-lb Drive shaft to wheel hub; front and rear

pantera43

dfinnegan, you mean the front axle nut is also 340 lbs?

Thanks,

Dan

springer3

I have the 3/4-in sockets and a 3/4" breaker bar. Long cheater bar should get it done.

Let me know if you need a hand or want to borrow the tools.

dfinnegan

Yes. According to the Shop Manuals, both front and rear get 340 ft-lbs.

Though, now that I think about it, I have a C4 and the manuals are setup for C4 with C2 addendum. I'd have to check for the C2 configuration.

GeorgeK

Don't even try with 1/2" drive.... and if it shows any dirt/rust/corrosion, liberal use of penetrating oil beforehand will save the day.

darth

Dear Jerry

I seen a 1/2" electric impact driver which spec'd out at 345 ft-lb maximum torque. I have my doubts never having tried one.

Bill

Boeing 717

Thanks Guys i am going to buy some pipe or use a fence post and attach it to my breaker bar. Thanks Springer for the offer on tools. Ill let you know how it comes out.

DaveConn

Jerry,

Just went through this myself. You will most likely destroy anything with a 1/2" drive using a breaker bar (ask me how I know!).

I ended up using my Longacre Pit Wrench, fully charged. Worked like a charm for removal.

The hard part is getting the right torque for installation. I ended up buying a heavy duty torque wrench, simply because I anticipate doing this many times over the next years (mostly track use for me), but you could do some simple math and come up with a good approximation of torque using a bar. Either way, you'll want to find a 3/4" drive 32mm socket to take the loads.

Good luck,

Dave

ilko

I'll chime in, having just done this for the second time this past weekend.

When I did this for the first time on the RSA a couple of years ago the nut (32mm) was so tight, that it broke the breaker bar. I had a nice pipe attached to the breaker bar and the thing just snapped. It was a really tough breaker bar that I've used for many years! And that's after I had it soaked in penetrating oil overnight. I ended up using my ****ty 1.5HP compressor with a nice Ingersol Rand impact wrench that I borrowed and since bought one just like it, and that did the trick.

Last weekend I was doing some work on the C4S and since I let a neighbor borrow my compressor I didn't have it with me. I ended up heating the nut with high temp MAPP gas (propane torch doesn't heat it enough) for a few minutes, followed by my new breaker bar with the same old pipe I used last time. Lo and behold the nut came off quite easily!

BTW on both cars the nuts still had the factory paint showing that they've never been removed in the past.

YMMV.

ian89C4

I used a 32mm socket with a sliding t-bar (no pivot like on a breaker bar) from tractor supply. Heated the nuts up with MAPP gas for around 3-5 minutes each. But the socket and t-bar on and placed my jack underneath the appropriate side of the t-bar. Had the wife stand on the brakes with the car running and preceded to raise the jack. Brakes started to slip a little and then pop, the nut broke free and was easy sailing from there.

To put back on my mechanic at the local p-car shop said just have someone stand on the brakes and hop and down on the t-bar the tighten them. He has done that for years and never had one come off. I have tracked the car two times since and have not had any problems. Trust me I check all the time to see if the nuts are trying to spin off.

Good luck.

chris walrod

Yes, its 330-something Ft/lbs but remember break-a-way torque can be much greater! There are many factors involved.

Use 3/4" drive bar and socket -- best way in the end.

McMaster.com has this sort of stuff for reasonable prices.