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Fan belt nut very hard to remove

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Old 12-31-2009, 11:14 PM
  #16  
dan79brooklyn
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Thanks for the link. The VIM set looks nice. I wonder if I can just buy the one piece I need for the pulley nut? What size would that be?
Old 01-01-2010, 06:36 AM
  #17  
Ro_3.3T
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the pully nut is 24mm

the tool use to hold the shaft is a 12 point

Last edited by Ro_3.3T; 01-01-2010 at 06:54 AM.
Old 01-01-2010, 10:36 AM
  #18  
dan79brooklyn
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Thanks, but I meant what size XZN bit I need for the shaft, the set comes in:
4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm
Otherwise I will buy the whole set (I did get a $40 Amazon certificate for Christmas after all).
Old 01-01-2010, 11:02 AM
  #19  
Grazie
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A very similar set can be had at your local Pep Boys for the same price. Haven't tested quality as my need was for a low torque/less critical application (arguably over-engineered/built VW Passat door).
Old 01-01-2010, 01:06 PM
  #20  
darth
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Dear Dan

You'll need a 10mm and as Craig mentions you'll likely have a clearance issue while the engine is in the car and putting a ratchet on the end of it as the body work is in the way with the engine at normal height unless your engine supports are sagging or you raise the engine. I purchased a single 1.25" long 10mmm similar to the Lisle set but much shorter and put a 10mm combination wrench on it. If you decide to get the Lisle set you can always cut the end off if they're too long, as the hex shaft runs along the full length of the tool. It appears the VIM set has a round shaft so you won't be able to get a wrench on it. I got mine from a local independent autoparts store like Napa.

Bill
Old 01-01-2010, 08:55 PM
  #21  
993PET
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As I previously posted. The VIM 10mm 12 point just fitted on my car with a 3/8 drive rachet attached, so I guess my engine mounts need replacing.

JF
Old 01-01-2010, 11:32 PM
  #22  
carreragttech
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As a dealer tech we have had this happen many times. Sometimes the splines are striped when they come in. The fix is to mark the bolts for the latch and remove them. You then move the latch down and you can get a 24mm 1/2 socket with a 1/2 extension and impact, then impact it off. Hope this helps be careful of the paint, tape goes along way!

Last edited by carreragttech; 01-01-2010 at 11:33 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 01-03-2010, 09:31 AM
  #23  
Ro_3.3T
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Thats not a bad idea carreraGTtech
Old 01-08-2012, 04:41 PM
  #24  
Vandit
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but i'm in the process of doing this and the nut is damn tight.

I bought this bit
K-D Tools 2305 10Mm Serrated Wrench
Amazon Amazon

Then used the Dremel to cut off the back a bit to get clearance.

Anyway, so now i'm trying to remove the nut and it's not budging.

I already sprayed some WD40 in there. I'm using interlocked wrenches on both ends, and still can't get the leverage to break it loose.



Not amused right now...
Old 01-08-2012, 04:56 PM
  #25  
Vandit
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Alright, pretty quick update. Went out for round 2, put all my might into it and the bish broke free finally. I hit my neck on the open hood from where I fell downward as the nut moved.
Old 01-08-2012, 07:45 PM
  #26  
AOW162435
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Originally Posted by Vandit
I hit my neck on the open hood from where I fell downward as the nut moved.
Classic.

Because of the tight confines back there, I typically orient both wrenches in the same direction, but spread apart a few degrees. Then I grip the two and squeeze hard.


Andreas
Old 01-08-2012, 07:54 PM
  #27  
jimq
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rapping the wrench on the bolt with a hammer can also help break it lose. Takes 2 people to hold everything.
Old 01-08-2012, 10:05 PM
  #28  
chris951
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I bought some of the 12 point tools from Autozone cheap and took a grinder to it, put a 13mm or 1/2'' wrench and it worked great. I used the Porsche tool and the splines rounded off immediately. I wish they still used the older fan wrenches.



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