BERU wires
#17
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The research I've done indicates that the ends generally hold up well. The trouble is that they can be difficult to remove from the wire. And, attaching the threaded end to the wire, though simple in principle, can be difficult to get just right. However, there was no clear consensus on all of this. These are just the impressions that I was left with when I was searching around some time back. ymmv
#19
Agent Orange
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I thought so. The reason I asked was because I discovered a corroded distributor connector last year. It was the connector to the ignition coil. I've bought new OEM wires with connectors since then but only for the coils. I understand how to attach the wire to the connector, but since in my case it was the connector that was corroded I am hesitant on spending the money on the wires and reuse the old connectors.
#20
Burning Brakes
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Yes last year there was a huge screw up in the the part listing and since most online vendors use the same type of software, almost all canadian dealers were selling them cheap. Now that the screw up is solved I will let you all on a little something. Last year when I herd about this screw up, I called my buddy who owns a engine shop. his cost was 85$ CAD and sold them to me at 108$. I sold a little over 20 sets mostly at 225$ USD but I did sell a few on ebay for a little over 400$ USD. If I would of known, I would of ordered a truck load. My buddy who was buying them couldn't believe it and he recently checked the listing and his cost was 470$ CAD.
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#21
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"I thought so. The reason I asked was because I discovered a corroded distributor connector last year." That's the reason why, when one replaces wires or any component in the electrical system, one should look at the whole system at once - replace the wires, plugs, distributor caps/rotors and possibly the coils. In your case it was obvious the connector failed, often a failed component in the system is not so obvious. Coils can fail internally with no external signs of failure. All it takes is a pin hole in the insulation, deteriorated insulation on the magnet wire n the coil, carbon track inside a distributor cap , a or a crack in the porcelin insulator or fouled spark plug etc., to allow the voltage to leak and if the engine is run with a less than optimum component for any length of time, it puts stress on the other components in the system, causing them to fail. Unless your Kreskin or have glass heads to allow you to see stray voltage way down in those spark plug holes, it is best to replace all at once, otherwise you end up chasing your tail - replacing one component at a time while the other is put under more stress and starts to fail. These componets should be treated as a consumable and renewed just like engine oil, just not as often. Your engine and pocket book will thank you and in the long run you'll be better off, rerwarded with better fuel economy and performance.
#22
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ilko - I changed the wires on the 964 last year and tried to remove the spark plug connectors on the old set. I only managed to get about half the ends off successfully. The wires ended up breaking before the screw released from the connector. I need a set on the C4S and was thinking about going the wires only route, but changed my mind after this.
#23
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Check out my recent thread about end replacement. It was pretty easy once I knew what parts I needed. I used my existing wire, a new screw-on end and a new boot. For the distributor side, it cost about $8 per wire + shipping.
I used a coax crimper that I had lying around. It worked fine. Getting the screw-on end into the boot wasn't hard either.
I used a coax crimper that I had lying around. It worked fine. Getting the screw-on end into the boot wasn't hard either.
#25
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I doubt I'm the guy cause I was buying mine above most vendors and bought over 20 sets. If you were trying to get them through online parts canada, I can tell you that one out of two guys got his set. One day they had them and the next the were B.O.