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C4inLA, I had to replace that line a while back because it was leaking where the metal met the rubber hose. I checked a picture I took of the install and my car had washers on both sides of the banjo fitting.
So glad I found this thread. I just recently discovered a leak in my Power Steering (will determine where after work travel this week) but I’m not sure what the previous owner placed in the reservoir or system as it’s clear and not green or red. My question for the OP or other of the experts here is: I able to flush and refill using Pentosin CHF 11S? I’ve read on other threads that you’re not supposed to mix it. Please advise this Porsche newbie. Thank you in advance!
Replaced the high pressure line myself the other day after I spent hours trying to trace a fluid leak from what I thought was the pump and then the banjo washer. Turned out to to be the pipe itself where the banjo insert into the pipe must be cracked or a small split allowing fluid to slowly leak out and down onto the banjo then under the pump. Think the original aging fluid pipes back there in the engine bay just eventually perish in all that engine heat (replaced the low press reservoir to pump pipe last year). Banjo has two thin copper washers either side. Found exact washer spec for £4.50 for 50 washers! Make sure all pump and pipe fittings are torqued up to correct values.
Personally I would only flush the system with the fluid I want to end up with - e.g. Dexron IID
If you are questioning the previous power steering fluid, I would buy a couple bottles of your preferred fluid and flush it out.
Edit - I'm using Dextron VI in my cars which superceded Dextron II in my area.
Originally Posted by LM964
Replaced the high pressure line myself the other day after I spent hours trying to trace a fluid leak from what I thought was the paump and then the banjo washer. Turned out to to be the pipe itself where the banjo insert into the pipe must be cracked or a small split allowing fluid to slowly leak out and down onto the banjo then under the pump. Think the original aging fluid pipes back there in the engine bay just eventually perish in all that engine heat (replaced the low press reservoir to pump pipe last year). Banjo has two thin copper washers either side. Found exact washer spec for £4.50 for 50 washers! Make sure all pump and pipe fittings are torqued up to correct values.
Personally I would only flush the system with the fluid I want to end up with - e.g. Dexron IID
Good luck
Thank you all for the confirmation. I was a tad adamant as the thought of when you flush you’re introducing the new fluid to the system and will mix a bit with the old. Luckily, I’m fortunate enough to have a mate that is a shop managers a local garage and he told me they have CHF 11S in stock bc they service a couple classic 911’s and a 912. Knowing that I will choose the Pentosin as my fluid I want to end up with. Now on to find the location of the leak. By the way, have you all changed the seals in the pump as well?
LM964 - Would you mind sharing the specs of the washers please? Id definitely like to order a few to have on hand. Thanks!
LM964 - Would you mind sharing the specs of the washers please? Id definitely like to order a few to have on hand. Thanks!
Katalog part # being 900 123 042 20 - this is a non-Porsche specific part number. I found 14 x 18 x 1.0 copper sealing washers pretty easily in the end here. 1.5mm thickness would be too much (for both sides of the banjo union). Critically the washer needs to sit comfortably within the machined recess on the pump inlet. 1.0mm thickness allowed the washer to 'compress' nicely at the correct torque setting - I think any thicker washer would require higher torque setting to achieve the same. Pack of 25 pretty cheap - https://www.beal.org.uk/sealing-wash...-x-18-x-1.html
Last edited by LM964; 10-06-2018 at 07:19 AM.
Reason: missing text
Katalog part # being 900 123 042 20 - this is a non-Porsche specific part number. I found 14 x 18 x 1.0 copper sealing washers pretty easily in the end here. 1.5mm thickness would be too much (for both sides of the banjo union). Critically the washer needs to comfortably within the machined recess on the pump inlet. 1.0mm thickness allowed the washer to 'compress' nicely at the correct torque setting - I think any thicker washer would require higher torque setting to achieve the same. Pack of 25 pretty cheap - https://www.beal.org.uk/sealing-wash...-x-18-x-1.html
So I just did the flush and it worked beautifully. I had just one small addition / change to the process. When you switch off the engine both the supply and return tubes are full of fluid. If you put both containers into a big and flat pan and pull the tube out of the container, most of the liquid will drain out of the tubes. You will introduce a little air anyway when reconnecting the lines to the reservoir.
I managed to disconnect both lines without any spill. All in all a brilliant process. Thank you all for sharing.
Just wanted give an update to this and say THANK YOU for the thread and advice! It so happens my leak came from the pressure hose. I went ahead and replaced the hose from my reservoir to my pump as well since it was so cheap. The flush DIY went off without any issues albeit just a tad messy when pulling the hoses off but easy nonetheless. I decided to use the Dex/Merc ATF fluid (Dexron III) from Advance Auto Parts as it was a cheaper alternative to get me on the road for now. My engine rebuild is happening in mid-November and the fluid will be replaced with Pentosin CHF 202.
One more up-vote. Just did this flush today and the instructions were great. If I can suggest one update: the hose *interior* diameter (ID) needs to be 5/8” for an easy fit. The Home Depot clear vinyl 5/8” tubing (1/2” ID) can be made to fit with a heat gun and cursing but a larger tube will be easier.
Also, angle-head needle-nose pliers can be used to pinch off and disconnect the tubes with minimal spillage when the flush is complete.
06-20-2017, 09:52 AM
