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Cup 1 vs Cup II weight

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Old 08-06-2009, 01:14 PM
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christallon
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Default Cup 1 vs Cup II weight

I have heard that the Cup 1's (964) are heavier than the Cup II's (993). Does anybody have any idea of the difference, like size to like size?

Cheers
Old 08-06-2009, 01:35 PM
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elbeee964
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Search (and Cobalt!) is your friend.
Old 08-06-2009, 01:49 PM
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Rocket Rob
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Originally Posted by christallon
I have heard that the Cup 1's (964) are heavier than the Cup II's (993). Does anybody have any idea of the difference, like size to like size?

Cheers
But Cup 1's look better.
Old 08-06-2009, 02:08 PM
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christallon
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Thanks elbeee and RR,

3.5 lbs lighter on the 9's and a half lb on the fronts. All in that 8 lbs less of unsprung weight. Not too shabby! I ask because I had the chance to see and physically lift a 9" Cup 1 the other day and was astonished at it's weight. Heavy.

I agree that the Cup 1's look better on a 964, but only marginally so.

Thanks for the feedback!
Old 08-07-2009, 09:43 PM
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mlk118s
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Cup I's look better on anything.
Who really cares about a couple pounds here or there? On a 964 they are a natural, Cup II's just don't look right.
Old 08-07-2009, 09:58 PM
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christallon
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Funny you should say that. I found a set of Turbo Cup 1's (ET 55) in LA, and I picked them up today. They look fantastic , although my car is at factory ride ht. so I must get the car lowered and upgrade the suspension next. I plan to add negative camber F&R. How far can I go with the neg. camber before I have to mess with spacers? At this point there is no rubbing or oil line problems, but the wheels are vertical, probably 0 camber all around. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Chris
Old 08-07-2009, 11:24 PM
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mlk118s
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Well done.
The Turbo Cup I's are a little wider correct? 8's Front 9's Rear? Should look killer. Personally I don't like the super low look of modified US cars, seem out of place, where on a real Euro car it looks great, not sure where the difference is but when done correctly with the wide rears like a Euro Carrera RS---gonna be quite lovely.
Old 08-08-2009, 12:17 AM
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christallon
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The turbo set up is 7 & 9. Currently 215/45 up front and 245/45 out back. 215 is probably the most it can take although it looks terrific. The US stock ride ht on these cars is way too high. I much prefer the Euro RS ht, just not sure what camber I can get away with.

Thanks for the comment.

Chris
Old 08-08-2009, 12:42 AM
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joey bagadonuts
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I look at the fender lip to determine ride height. Measured from the highest point to the ground, I chose 25" front and rear on my dual-purpose C4 (below). With 55mm offsets and 215/255 tires, you won't need to add a whole lot of camber for clearance, unless you lower the car considerably.

Old 08-08-2009, 01:55 AM
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christallon
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Thanks Joey. As I lower the car, will the neg. camber set itself in naturally? I'm suprized by how straight up and down the wheels look at this current ht.

Your car looks the ****e my man. Nicely done!!!
Old 08-08-2009, 02:44 AM
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foxford
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Adjacent to your question, Christallon, does the angle decrease between the axis of wheel rotation and the strut when a car is lowered? I have 8-1/2 wide fronts that require about 7mm spacers due to the deep offset. Now, if I lower the car, will the clearance increase between the inner rim and the front coils? I'd like to keep the wide rubber but if I can't remove the spacers I'll rub for sure. (it'll probably rub either way)
Old 08-08-2009, 12:41 PM
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DanielT
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I have cupIIs 7 & 9" and run 225 and 255 tires....yes my car is lowered with H&R sport springs.
and to answer you other question, yes you will gain some negative camber as you lower the car. Mine gained about 1.5* negative front and rear from lowering.
Old 08-08-2009, 01:02 PM
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joey bagadonuts
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Originally Posted by christallon
Thanks Joey. As I lower the car, will the neg. camber set itself in naturally? I'm suprized by how straight up and down the wheels look at this current ht.

Your car looks the ****e my man. Nicely done!!!
Thanks.

Static camber is adjusted separately from the ride height. When you swap your suspension, your shop will make the adjustment during the alignment/corner balance.

Sounds like your thinking of dynamic camber. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in, but I believe camber and toe values do change during braking and cornering. For example, under braking, the front wheels will toe out which is why there is usually some toe in added during your alignment. Camber seems to increase under load but, again, I'm no expert.

With new suspension, tire sizes, offsets and ride height mentioned, clearance should not be an issue. If you lower the car further, use wider tires and start pushing the car at the track, you may need to revisit the camber issue.
Old 08-08-2009, 01:05 PM
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Tuscany964
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I would go back to oem tyre sizes and 3 deg neg camber F&R plus spacers at the rear. If you only drive on the road then 2 deg neg camber F&R will do. Just my 2 cents.
Old 08-08-2009, 01:08 PM
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DanielT
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static camber most certainly changes when you lower your car.
with no other suspension changes to my car other than shorter lowering springs, I gained ~-1.5* front and rear. no adjustments were made. camber was measured before and after the spring swap. I have my car lowered with the springs and the height adjustment on the shocks set to their lowest possible setting.
there are always dynamic changes to camber and toe during acceleration, braking and cornering. Each corner of the car reacts in a different way depending on the forces being applied.


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