Street oriented anti-bump steer suspension setup...
#1
Street oriented anti-bump steer suspension setup...
So..I read everything there is to read in the archives.
My car will see a handful of track days, and otherwise, get driven daily with much spirit. Most of the info considers some pretty hardcore setups.
Looks like the evo uprights are the way to go..but what do you guys recommend for all the ancillary items? Tie rods, links, etc.
In addition, regarding the coilover set. Would you recommend PSS10 for an 85% street car?
I have 10 years of motorcycle racing under my belt. 7 towards road racing, and 3 in Supermoto. Meanwhile, a few years in a Rotax Max karting series. So I can find my way around a track, and I'm not too afraid of a hard edged tool.
However, I want to enjoy California mountain roads and take my wife and kid out for a nice drive. So I should avoid metal-on-metal, and straight pipes.
thanks for the help guys..
My car will see a handful of track days, and otherwise, get driven daily with much spirit. Most of the info considers some pretty hardcore setups.
Looks like the evo uprights are the way to go..but what do you guys recommend for all the ancillary items? Tie rods, links, etc.
In addition, regarding the coilover set. Would you recommend PSS10 for an 85% street car?
I have 10 years of motorcycle racing under my belt. 7 towards road racing, and 3 in Supermoto. Meanwhile, a few years in a Rotax Max karting series. So I can find my way around a track, and I'm not too afraid of a hard edged tool.
However, I want to enjoy California mountain roads and take my wife and kid out for a nice drive. So I should avoid metal-on-metal, and straight pipes.
thanks for the help guys..
#2
My advise would be the same as I have on my car: Bilstein HD and H&R Green springs. When you set it up just dont' go toooo!!! low; RS ride height plus 10-15 m/m and the bumpsteer is hardly noticable, it is firm but compliant enough that you and your family can enjoy twisty back roads; you may find it a little too soft for track use, so if money is no object buy the fully adjustable coil overs.
#3
So..I read everything there is to read in the archives.
My car will see a handful of track days, and otherwise, get driven daily with much spirit. Most of the info considers some pretty hardcore setups.
Looks like the evo uprights are the way to go..but what do you guys recommend for all the ancillary items? Tie rods, links, etc.
In addition, regarding the coilover set. Would you recommend PSS10 for an 85% street car?
I have 10 years of motorcycle racing under my belt. 7 towards road racing, and 3 in Supermoto. Meanwhile, a few years in a Rotax Max karting series. So I can find my way around a track, and I'm not too afraid of a hard edged tool.
However, I want to enjoy California mountain roads and take my wife and kid out for a nice drive. So I should avoid metal-on-metal, and straight pipes.
thanks for the help guys..
My car will see a handful of track days, and otherwise, get driven daily with much spirit. Most of the info considers some pretty hardcore setups.
Looks like the evo uprights are the way to go..but what do you guys recommend for all the ancillary items? Tie rods, links, etc.
In addition, regarding the coilover set. Would you recommend PSS10 for an 85% street car?
I have 10 years of motorcycle racing under my belt. 7 towards road racing, and 3 in Supermoto. Meanwhile, a few years in a Rotax Max karting series. So I can find my way around a track, and I'm not too afraid of a hard edged tool.
However, I want to enjoy California mountain roads and take my wife and kid out for a nice drive. So I should avoid metal-on-metal, and straight pipes.
thanks for the help guys..
Keep your car at RS height or above and you can retain the stockers.
I've found that 993RS uprights, hard rubber RS bushes all around, monoball/camber plate shock mounts, GT2 evo steering arms, 450/680# springs makes for a very nice street/track setup.
PSS10 is more street oriented, JIC more track oriented, Moton or JRZ even more so
#4
Thanks guys..
The monoball camber plates are tolerable? I had them on an E30 M3 for a few years. Not so nice. Every time i hit a bump, I thought the struts would come through the hood. Of course, the rest of the setup was pretty harsh as well.
If monoball camber plates are acceptable on the road, I will be delighted... Then I can easily change settings from street to track.
Also, how is the RS suspension bushing? Loud?
You guys are always a great help...
The monoball camber plates are tolerable? I had them on an E30 M3 for a few years. Not so nice. Every time i hit a bump, I thought the struts would come through the hood. Of course, the rest of the setup was pretty harsh as well.
If monoball camber plates are acceptable on the road, I will be delighted... Then I can easily change settings from street to track.
Also, how is the RS suspension bushing? Loud?
You guys are always a great help...
#6
Thanks guys..
The monoball camber plates are tolerable? I had them on an E30 M3 for a few years. Not so nice. Every time i hit a bump, I thought the struts would come through the hood. Of course, the rest of the setup was pretty harsh as well.
If monoball camber plates are acceptable on the road, I will be delighted... Then I can easily change settings from street to track.
Also, how is the RS suspension bushing? Loud?
You guys are always a great help...
The monoball camber plates are tolerable? I had them on an E30 M3 for a few years. Not so nice. Every time i hit a bump, I thought the struts would come through the hood. Of course, the rest of the setup was pretty harsh as well.
If monoball camber plates are acceptable on the road, I will be delighted... Then I can easily change settings from street to track.
Also, how is the RS suspension bushing? Loud?
You guys are always a great help...
The main thing I change for street use is the shock and swaybar settings.
As far as the bushes go I like the hard rubber RS type, no noise. Other options here are p/u which tend to squeek and monoball which aren't really appropriate for street use.
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#8
You will never get all the bump out of a 964 if you lower it too low. I've got the evo uprights and it makes a world of difference, but even w/those you can go too low. There's a few sets for sale out there and I'd say the investment is worth it....i think you can do regular 993 uprights and that helps a bit but the evo's are the only ones that significantly move the tie rod p/u point. You will need evo tie rod ends from Porsche motorsport...don't get the tie rods from any of the aftermarket guys, I tired those and was not happy...in fact one broke!
#9
I've never understood this 100% clearly - with the evo uprights, can you still use a 964 shock tower assembly (i.e. if I put evo uprights on my car, would I be able to still use my H&R coilovers?)
#10
I'm leaning toward the Evo uprights. So I at least have the flexibility of setup.
And ChaseN is right. after reading all the available archives, it is still unclear what front struts to have.
Seems like some guys run 993, some 964 with an enlarge hole at the bottom mount.
And ChaseN is right. after reading all the available archives, it is still unclear what front struts to have.
Seems like some guys run 993, some 964 with an enlarge hole at the bottom mount.
#11
Some have adapted the 993 uprights to 964 struts, a better choice is 993 struts. The aluminum 993 uprights have slightly thicker mounting bosses, a larger lower bolt.
w/ the 993 uprights you will need 993 calipers and rotors, either stock 993 or the Big reds from 993RS/tt work
of course if you use the big reds you need to change the back calipers to 993 and the m/c to 993 too.
I did mention this wasn't going to be cheap??
#13
Of course, nothing ever is with Porsche!
I'm down near the ride height that some people get concerned about bumpsteer. I can't say that I have ever knowingly encountered it - not saying it hasnt happened, but I could be too thick to realize it (thats what my fiance would say at least). This will probably be an "addendum" to a big red conversion sometime in the future - not the other way around.
Thanks for clearing that up.
I'm down near the ride height that some people get concerned about bumpsteer. I can't say that I have ever knowingly encountered it - not saying it hasnt happened, but I could be too thick to realize it (thats what my fiance would say at least). This will probably be an "addendum" to a big red conversion sometime in the future - not the other way around.
Thanks for clearing that up.
#14
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, then Annapolis - now Laguna Beach CA. Well, not so fast - I'm back in Dallas. For good!
My 2 cents, since I am doing the same research...
Some can be found here: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...rs-brakes.html
I too am a former M/C road racer. During that seven years I learned a lot about suspension. Only some translates to these cars. One thing that does is the adage is "the best you know is the best you've seen.." Until you've felt a better suspension, what you have feels pretty good. I do not believe stiff = better. Plushness and good compliance are obtainable but $$$...
I have the H&R with Bilstein greens on my car. They are better than stock - noticeably so. But they are a long way from the excellent damping from more modern (shock) setups - at least I hope. They still feel harsh to me. JICs are on my short list to try.
In the motorcycle world there is plenty of HP with a very small contact patch. This why it's very common to see 600cc bikes beating the open classers... Keeping that contact patch on the pavement is key - so suspension is everything.
Here - there are other factors, not the least of which is comfort. Ride height, alignment, sway bars all play a part.
Because of this - I think you have to consider a well thought out package. The right shocks, sways, bushings, tires, wheels - that function to take advantage of the other added pieces.... Problem is - you quickly have a list of $5K in parts for a $20K car so beware. I plan to do it, but brakes are first. I do want the EVO uprights, but they will have wait until I can pop for the correct (993 front) shocks (JICs), tie rods, RS bushes, alignment and corner balance, all at the same time - and I'll probably need tires by then as well... Not saying my path is right, just that the EVOs are just one part of the equation to consider...
Look forward to watching your progress.
Some can be found here: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...rs-brakes.html
I too am a former M/C road racer. During that seven years I learned a lot about suspension. Only some translates to these cars. One thing that does is the adage is "the best you know is the best you've seen.." Until you've felt a better suspension, what you have feels pretty good. I do not believe stiff = better. Plushness and good compliance are obtainable but $$$...
I have the H&R with Bilstein greens on my car. They are better than stock - noticeably so. But they are a long way from the excellent damping from more modern (shock) setups - at least I hope. They still feel harsh to me. JICs are on my short list to try.
In the motorcycle world there is plenty of HP with a very small contact patch. This why it's very common to see 600cc bikes beating the open classers... Keeping that contact patch on the pavement is key - so suspension is everything.
Here - there are other factors, not the least of which is comfort. Ride height, alignment, sway bars all play a part.
Because of this - I think you have to consider a well thought out package. The right shocks, sways, bushings, tires, wheels - that function to take advantage of the other added pieces.... Problem is - you quickly have a list of $5K in parts for a $20K car so beware. I plan to do it, but brakes are first. I do want the EVO uprights, but they will have wait until I can pop for the correct (993 front) shocks (JICs), tie rods, RS bushes, alignment and corner balance, all at the same time - and I'll probably need tires by then as well... Not saying my path is right, just that the EVOs are just one part of the equation to consider...
Look forward to watching your progress.
#15
.... JICs are on my short list to try.
........Because of this - I think you have to consider a well thought out package. The right shocks, sways, bushings, tires, wheels - that function to take advantage of the other added pieces.... Problem is - you quickly have a list of $5K in parts for a $20K car so beware. I plan to do it, but brakes are first. I do want the EVO uprights, but they will have wait until I can pop for the correct (993 front) shocks (JICs), tie rods, RS bushes, alignment and corner balance, all at the same time - and I'll probably need tires by then as well... Not saying my path is right, just that the EVOs are just one part of the equation to consider...
Look forward to watching your progress.
........Because of this - I think you have to consider a well thought out package. The right shocks, sways, bushings, tires, wheels - that function to take advantage of the other added pieces.... Problem is - you quickly have a list of $5K in parts for a $20K car so beware. I plan to do it, but brakes are first. I do want the EVO uprights, but they will have wait until I can pop for the correct (993 front) shocks (JICs), tie rods, RS bushes, alignment and corner balance, all at the same time - and I'll probably need tires by then as well... Not saying my path is right, just that the EVOs are just one part of the equation to consider...
Look forward to watching your progress.
you care correct that you have to do the whole front end all at once as a package as the 993/993RS uprights have a different confiuration from 964 for attaching tie rods and brakes.