dfinnegan

I'm nearly done with house projects and have started thinking about my p-car again.

One question, it's been suggested that I get the heat exchanger nuts "cherry red" in order to get them off. I plan to do this.

Paul then suggests heating the aluminum block with a strong hair dryer to help with the broken stud removal. And states that 30 minutes is a bout all the practicle heat I can apply.

However, I'm thinking that I'll be applying much (much!) more heat than that when I heat the nuts to cherry red. Right?

Am I missing something here, or do I need to be very careful when heating the nuts so that I somehow manage to heat just the nuts and not the block?

Thanks in advance,
Dave

Rocket Rob

By the way, when I replaced my oil line, I installed the heat shield over the flexible section. I don't see that in your photos. Do you plan on running without it?

#55 on PET 104-01 part # 964-207-352-00

dfinnegan

Huh. Didn't know there was one. Guess I've got another order to place. Thanks!

I wonder if that contributed to the leak?

Rocket Rob

No sure it could cause a leak. When I bought my C2 coupe a few years ago, it came without the heat shield. I ordered one and installed it when I was redoing many little items on the car. The heat shield is pretty simple, I looks like a piece of aluminized fiberglass cloth that you wrap around the oil line. My guess is that its there because the oil line is extremely close to the primary muffler. They were probably trying to minimize the muffler heat getting into the oil.

ToniWonKanobi

So would the Bentley book for the 964 talk about how to remove the bumper, and about removing the "rear oil line" (the one that goes from the filter housing to the crankcase on the driver side)? Should I get that to know about torque values and stuff?

Rocket Rob

No, it doesn't show that level of detail. Removing the bumper is not too hard. The challenge with removing/replacing the oil line from the crankcase to the oil filter is that you will have to remove the driver side heat exchanger. As for torques, the bolts are standard torques for their sizes. The oil line connections are wrench tight.

ToniWonKanobi

What does?

I'm sure I could figure it out. It would just be nice to have a book that says how to do everything. I've heard of "Porsche Shop Manuals" here on RL. Anyone know what that is?

And this is where people always break something right?

And that's something I could just look up on the internet?

Sounds easy enough

Rocket Rob

I have the factory workshop manuals, Adrian's book and a few others. Each offers coverage but no one source has everything. For example, I bought my factory workshop manuals to get instructions on how to change the brake pads. They have one sentence about it, saying something like "these are standard 4 piston calipers". The factory workshop manuals assume that you are a factory trained technician.

Rennlist is a great source as is Pelican.

ToniWonKanobi

Interesting lol.

So for dropping the driver side heat exchanger, what's the consensus? I can't just soak it with some kind of degreaser and then try to remove? I need to use a torch too?

And then if I do break a nut/bolt, what do I replace it with?

Rocket Rob

Removing the heat exchanger, requires penetrating oil and patience. You will also need a swivel socket and a 6" 8mm allen key. I use a MAPP torch to help heat up the nuts. You will also need a set of 32 & 36mm wrenches for the oil line.

If you break a stud, see this thread. https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...vice-help.html

John McM

This job has the potential to get away on you. The nuts and studs are easy to buy, extracting a broken stud is less easy. I'd get a shop to do this job if the engine is in the car. I was nervous with mine on an engine stand, let alone working under the car.

ToniWonKanobi

I haven't looked yet, so perhaps this question would be obvious to me, but here it goes anyways:

I literally *must* remove/loosen the driver's side exhaust manifold / heat exchanger in order to remove the rear oil line and install a new one?

John McM

I've learned never to be 100% certain of anything but if it's the line circled here I took it off after I took off the heat exchanger and the rebuild book installs it before the exchanger is refitted.

John McM

Be aware that the bolts holding the left and right manifold may be rusted together as well. In that case you may have to take it off as an assembly. More potential to break studs.

Rocket Rob

Yes. It can be done with the engine in the car. I've done it. Take your time loosening the cylinder head flanges and you should be fine.