groovzilla

my new oem VDO oil pressure sender arrived today which was a day early so i dove into the garage and went to work.

most everything went well installing the sender...thanks to everyone for the heads up on the cruise control cable disconnect...if you haven't done this before it is hard to see the small groove in the throttle connector but once you pull the connector back it is easy...the rubber grommet that holds the cable in place also squeezes out of it's bracket easily...little lube helped..

i used the top electric contacts from the old sender and also installed the new green seal for the base....i was also able to use a normal width wrench and a vise to loosen the old sender from the base and re-install the new sender on the base...i read that someone had to grind down the width of the wrench to "slim" it down but in my case it wasn't necessary.

*the a/c bracket is a real pain in the *** to re-install...getting the 2 openings in the forked end back over the 2 bolts is almost impossible...there should be more clearance on the inside portion of the fork so that it doesn't rub against the base when trying to re-install...i almost got my grinder out but finally managed to get it over the bolts.

**also wanted to ad that there is a thin hose attached to the canister in the rear of the airbox that needs to be disconnected by pulling on it....also, after removing the 2 nuts on the sender base and lifting up a/c bracket, i used an air compressor to blow out any debris aroud tha base as once the base is removed the hole leads directly into the engine and it wouldn't be good to get any dirt or crap falling in....*have a towel ready because when the base is removed, it is slopped with oil.

after everything was put back together i took a 2 hour drive and the oil pressure guage worked great and no more idiot light!...pressure reads 5 on the highway and between 1 and 2 at idle with hot engine....the old sender never read higher than 3.5 - 4 on the highway and almost always read .5 or lower when i came to a stop and then the oil pressure light and warning light would come on...

**i received a few PM's from some fellow rennlisters so i thought i would post some DIY photos

thanks again for all the help!

groovzilla

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groovzilla

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groovzilla

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MONBUTEST

Good job William and your pix are really pedagogics for rookies!!
I've done this job a year ago, without removing the manifold, but just the airbox, seeing through the cables and tubes. I'll Never do it again :-)
Since, i've done it, my pressure is a bit higher, mainly at idle and less precise. Seems to be the part, not OEM one bought at RosePassion.fr . Maybe à chinese stuff??

boxsey911

Pleased to see you've got it all done. It was never in doubt when we have this board to help us.

I was interested to see that your new sender came with clamp connectors on the terminals - mine came complete with spades already attached.

Rocket Rob

Congratulations! And great job capturing the procedure in pictures.

Wachuko

Excellent. Thank you!

garrett376

Just a note for completeness when others reference this thread: you don't need to separate the AFM from the air filter housing to remove it. If you do, as you did, the workshop manual says you need to replace the gasket between the AFM and the plastic filter box (which is why it's easier to not separate the parts).
Well done

bawmnot

nice work & pics william. i just did this for exactly the same reasons as you, with the massive support and help of steve (boxey) - cheers steve!

i also had the a/c strut in my car, which was still bolted down at the sender end but had clearly been unbolted for quite a while at the a/c end - a/c has worked fine on my car for years, and the other a/c bolts looked easily solid enough to hold it in place. makes you wonder how useful/necessary it is. we bolted it back on both ends though - if porsche designed it that way, why change?

again, great pics, i'll try to do the same next time i have the courage to do some work!

crg53

Great write up & illustrations,

groovzilla

garrett376 the gasket is a simple paper gasket that is pressed into the shape of the sensor face and airbox face and was in new condition when removed so replacing it was not necessary.

i made the mistake of trying to re-install the airbox with air mass sensor already attached (which makes it easier) and it is impossible to install without the 2 parts seperated...i had to seperate them and install sensor 1st.

try it and see

wm

dfinnegan

It is a bit fiddly to install the air box with afm attached, but it is not impossible. I've done it quite a few times.

Interestingly, it always seems very easy to get it out in one piece and it's always difficult to get it back in. However, each time, I've managed to do so.

Just a point of reference.

Nice write-up!

groovzilla

wow...last week when i removed the airbox and sensor to inspect area i attempted to re-install the sensor and airbox together and i could not get it to fit...removed oil cap, made sure all wires and hoses were out of the way and still no way to get it in there.

Logicalct

I replaced my sender with a genuine Porsche unit today. With the help of these instructions, I was able to swap it out in less than an hour.

I chose to replace it without removing the intake manifold. Here are the steps I took:

1. Removed the airbox and Mass Airflow Sensor as one unit by removing the two bolts securing the filter box, and loosening the clamp on the sensor. (No need to remove speed control cable).
2. Remove bolt for AC bracket (green arrow).
3. Remove the two bolts from the Oil sender base, and move the AC bracket out of the way to the right.
4. Remove the sender and base as a unit.
5. Swap sending unit and reverse steps.

I used a genuine Porsche unit (stamped with VDO), and as others have stated the hole in the base is smaller than some of the aftermarket units.