Zimmerman drilled rotors
06-02-2009, 03:19 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
hmmm... paint that I used: whatever WalMart had on hand. (which will probably catch fire the first time the brakes are pushed hard.) 
If I had to do it again, I'd probably use engine block paint, grey. Or any super heat-capable/labeled gray spray nearby.
Spraying can be done in place, but it'll now behooooove to drape plastic drop cloth everywhere and tape the bejesus over those calipers. I just did it this way. Not easy. Tedious.
If I had to do it again, I'd probably use engine block paint, grey. Or any super heat-capable/labeled gray spray nearby.
Spraying can be done in place, but it'll now behooooove to drape plastic drop cloth everywhere and tape the bejesus over those calipers. I just did it this way. Not easy. Tedious.
06-02-2009, 08:26 AM
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sounds like what I will have to do, oh well, anything to combat rust. I think I will try to find some kind of solvent to clean the hats off before I spray them to combat the paint flaking off.
06-02-2009, 11:48 AM
#34
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Farmington, MI
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As bill mentioned POR; just buy their kit. That comes with the cleaner, the etching solution, and the paint. Having done this, it is easy and long term effective. Payi ng attention to the prescribed process and brushing on the final paint begets a very even surface looking much like am epoxy coat. The finish paint is very good at leveling itself.
Bear in mind the mounting surface dislikes the paint for obvious reasons.
Bear in mind the mounting surface dislikes the paint for obvious reasons.
06-03-2009, 10:35 PM
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Raeford, North Carolina
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Painting the rotor hats while on the car is not an easy task. The car looks like she is going in for surgery. I used a home depot brand etcher specifically for metal, then used an exhaust manifold paint rated up to 2000 degrees, hopefully that will last through a DE. Still have to do the rears though, its a slow process.
06-04-2009, 08:44 AM
#36
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When I did my hats, I just used brush on gloss black Rustoleum and a throw away $0.79 paintbrush.
Simply held the brush to the hub and turned the hub, no fuss, no muss, and a straight cut line at the rotor. For the rears, put the baby in gear and GO!
I just wanted protection, not Concours.
Simply held the brush to the hub and turned the hub, no fuss, no muss, and a straight cut line at the rotor. For the rears, put the baby in gear and GO!
I just wanted protection, not Concours.
08-06-2009, 09:45 PM
#37
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also found some Australian made directionally vaned/slotted with zinc coated hats and temp paint for the same price as the Zims. It's the same brand used by most of the V8 Supercars. Bonus is that I'm spending it on a local product and doing my bit for the Australian economy. I gotta agree with mpeters about the whole branding vs price point issue.
I've spent a lot of time and effort modifiying my car to my taste but not as much money as I could have had I just gone with the OEM part every time. As has been mentioned time and time again on this forum, our older cars are now owned by enthusiasts who don't always have an unlimited budget for maintaining them. Porsche has already made the money on these cars from their original better heeled owners so it would be nice to see them adjust their parts for older car to a more realistic level.
Neil
I've spent a lot of time and effort modifiying my car to my taste but not as much money as I could have had I just gone with the OEM part every time. As has been mentioned time and time again on this forum, our older cars are now owned by enthusiasts who don't always have an unlimited budget for maintaining them. Porsche has already made the money on these cars from their original better heeled owners so it would be nice to see them adjust their parts for older car to a more realistic level.
Neil
I am in New Zealand and looking at replacing rotors on my C2 race car. Can you direct me to where yo got yours and at what price.
08-08-2009, 05:40 AM
#38
Pro
Hey paffy,
I just tried to replace the ones I used last time but found that the nice slotted rotors made by DBA that I used are no longer being made for our model.
They only produce the standard solid discs now. I'm in the process of researching the cost for gas slotting them or seeing if there are competition rotors will be a cost effective alternative.
Neil
I just tried to replace the ones I used last time but found that the nice slotted rotors made by DBA that I used are no longer being made for our model.
They only produce the standard solid discs now. I'm in the process of researching the cost for gas slotting them or seeing if there are competition rotors will be a cost effective alternative.Neil
08-08-2009, 09:33 AM
#39
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you still want to paint the flats, install the wheels and torque up the wheel studs before the paint cures. Check the torque regularly until you are sure there is no relaxation.
08-08-2009, 09:17 PM
#40
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rancho Palos Verdes CA
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I had mine powder coated. Had them do inside the rotors, but not the mounting surfaces. Came out nice. This car doesn't see the track so extreme heat isn't such big deal. Corrosion resistance is high on my list.
The black is the 5mm spacer.
The black is the 5mm spacer.
