Jeff Curtis

Does anyone have a source that rebuilds the axles for our 964s? I can rebuild/replaced the inner CV joint/boot and have on MANY occasions, I can also regrease the outer ones after cleaning them out and replace those boots as well.

The specific concern I have is that the outer joints aren't for us "normal" peeps to repair/replace...does anyone know of a facility/shop that can redo these?

I have a couple of axles that give an indication that the outer CV joints are worn as they get pretty hot and one became noisey, spews grease, etc. I'm not at all enthusiastic about purchasing a complete new unit for ~$400 or so...I'd like to find someone who rebuilds the outer sections and I can re-assemble the inner joints and grease with beloved Redline CV grease!

On this same note...do any of you have a decent used/usable rear axle you'd like to sell?

Tom W

Jerry Woods Enterprises has rebuilt a couple of mine, but I'm not that sure it was much cheaper than buying new ones.

I've had issues with CV/axle failure for years (some last as few as 6 hours). We've gone through most lube options (what Porsche supplies them with is not sufficient). We tried a few high temperature lubes like Neo but finally gave up and have started to use Krytox. My car goes in in a couple weeks and one of the scheduled tasks is to pull the axles and take at least 1 apart to look at how they held up (last event was a normal race weekend and an extra 4 hour enduro).

I keep 2 spares in the trailer (usually rebuilt from the previous failure). I don't have any "extras". I do think I have some spare parts from the CV joints (the "cage" and bearings).

ilko

Jeff, I bought one C2 rear axle from forum member altarchsa. He had two at the time. You might want to send him a PM or email and see if he still has the second one.

Jeff Curtis

Tom, good to hear from you...I still have your front-end on the car...it's been my "good luck" front clip!! ...knock on wood.

Ilko, thanks for the tip, I'll have to look altarchsa up!

I really would be interested in finding a facility that will disassemble the OUTER joints and clean 'em up for me...Tom, Redline makes a specific high-heat CV grease that is getting some good reviews out my way.

Geoffrey

I disassemble the outer joint on my axles using a lathe to cut the crimp and then drill and tap the outer joint for 3 M3 allen head bolts. This allows disassembly for cleaning and inspection. I run Neo grease in my axles with no issues.

Jeff Curtis

Geoffrey, you have GOT to post a pic of that!

Any chance you'll take a couple of my CV axles on for a fee?

Tom W

Jeff: I wondered if it was still in one piece.

Geoffrey: We ran Neo in one set of my axles and after 5-6 hours it was shot. I'm told it looked like it got too hot. Since then we switched to Krytox and have modified the car to get the engine/transmission a bit higher to try and reduce the angle the axle has (get it closer to 90 degrees). This car has had axle/CV issues since I bought it: "stock", Turtle mk 2 or Turtle mk 3. I'm hoping that we have finally got it to where they will last 40-50 hours.

Geoffrey

Jeff, there is no way I want to rebuild any more axles than I have to....it is a messy dirty job that I don't enjoy...You should be able to do it yourself.

1) buy a new axle
2) take apart the inner joint, clean out the GKN grease and repack with Neo or Krytox.
3) put the axle on a lathe and cut the crimp off preserving the o-ring under the crimp
4) disassemble the outer joint, clean out the GKN grease
5) drill and tap the outer joint with m3 bolt
6) repack with Neo or krytox

Tom, I know I spoke with Rich about the issue and it probably has more to do with your axle angularity than the grease. I have run Krytox which is said to be the best (at $170 per tube it should be) and have not found it better than Neo (at a substantually less cost).

Tom W

Geoffrey: I knew you two spoke, I suggested it. We had initially tried Neo on your recommendation. Rich and Jerry had used Krytox in the past but didn't like to use it due to the toxicity. It was a last resort choice. I'm anxious to see the results of the changes in lube and geometry when it's disassembled. When the current "stock" of Krytox I purchased is used up, I'll probably have them switch back to Neo to see how it compares now that the geometry is changed. Even at the silly price for Krytox, it's cheaper than the constant replacement and rebuilding of the CV.

chris walrod

Krytox does seem like overkill, but dont argue with what works. And this stuff is nasty, dont get it on your skin.

Many of the IRL teams are using the NEO stuff with good results.

Tom W

In addition to never getting it on your skin, be careful if you work with it in race conditions. Jerry Woods once had to change an axle lubricated with Krytox during a race and the fumes from the very hot axle got him sick for a day or two. One of the reasons I'm told Jerry Woods Enterprises only uses it when they think they must.

Jeff Curtis

Good info. here...thanks.

I have purchased a pair of "slightly used" axles from a guy in Florida, he had them on the car briefly before changing to a widebody setup where he then needed to buy the Turbo versions...so not too bad for me eh?

WHERE are you guys sourcing the NEO stuff?? The Redline CV is pretty popular here locally but sounds like that is "farm league" stuff compared to NEO and Krytox. Sounds like I'll stay the hell away from the Krytox due to price and making people sick and all as Brakleen can take me out for an evening!!

Geoffrey, thanks for the procedure/tips, is there any way to get me a pic so I don't screw these up? I will have two fairly new units (OEM ordered through Champion Porsche for almost $800) in my hands within a week or so. I am very familiar with removing and disassembling the inner joint and changing the outer boot, etc. but not 100% on what crimp to compromise, where to drill and the location of the O-ring.

If it would be helpful...I could post a pic of the outer end of a CV axle and you could "modify" it with arrows/notes, etc. - would that be OK?

Tom/Geoffrey, et al, thanks for helping me get my axle situation under control.

FWIW, I've been using the GKN grease for years and an axle will generally last quite some time on the passenger (right) side but often I have issues on the left...maybe once/twice a year I have to remove/disassemble and/or scrap the unit on the left...and it's always the outer joint that seems to get hot as hell.

Most every track I run is clockwise and until a few months ago I've been running the factory heat-exchanger exhaust with a catalytic bypass, etc. so the left axle gets pretty damned hot from all that action.

I used to think it was a wheel bearing issue and I changed one shortly after renewing both wheel bearings one Winter and was having the same issue - mainly grease "melting/thinning" from heat and oozing out the hole in the stub axle...making a MESS all over the wheel.

Geoffrey, you always have some AWESOME ideas, I really appreciate your help and I still need to setup my transmission cooler.

Geoffrey

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

Ag02M5

Know if he still has the trailing arms? I am going from wide to narrow. Will have the wide body stuff for sale at some point.

Cheers.

964sepp

Ag02M5:
What is the benefit of doing so?

cheers