Help with Brake situation...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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Here is my problem the front left brake caliper has developed a leak in the one of the pistons. My question is what should I do? Can I have it refurbished? Or do I buy a caliper kit? What makes it worse is now I am out of a car since brake fluid is leaking everywhere. For now time is of the essence!
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#5
Three Wheelin'
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I would probably redo both fronts if it was mine. If the piston is damaged for some reason, the kits from porsche have all the seals, and the pistons. Pricey though. If it's just the seals here http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Con...es.htm#Rebuild seems to be pretty reasonable.(No affiliation, bla, bla). Not that hard of a job, just messy, and you need to take your time. Good time to check the spring plates for corrosion.
#6
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Following are some brake rebuild notes that I've gleaned from Rennlist; and perhaps other sources, too.
These notes were created before I started keeping thread links so there are no links to the original thread sources. However, I tend to quote direct passages so searching should turn up the original threads; if you are interested. Search, in general, will turn up lots of information. Generally too much, which is why I started keeping notes on "interesting" things.
Hope this helps!
These notes were created before I started keeping thread links so there are no links to the original thread sources. However, I tend to quote direct passages so searching should turn up the original threads; if you are interested. Search, in general, will turn up lots of information. Generally too much, which is why I started keeping notes on "interesting" things.
Hope this helps!
Code:
- brake rebuild Part list 964 351 096 02 damping plate 40 mm (mushroom) 964 351 096 01 damping plate 36 mm (mushroom) 964 351 959 01 repair kit spring plate 964 351 959 00 repair kit spring plate 951 351 919 11 set seals 40 mm (w/ pistons) 951 351 919 10 set seals 36 mm (w/ pistons) 965 352 939 04 set of brake pads Part List - better FRONT BRAKE DESCRIPTION PART # QUANTITY PRICE EACH Connecting Line 951 351 971 00 1 $25.30 Expanding Sping 951 352 950 00 1 $26.50 Spring Plate Repair Kit 964 351 959 01 1 $16.31 Spring Plate Repair Kit 964 351 959 00 1 $16.31 40 mm set of seals 951 351 919 11 2 $21.65 36 mm set of seals 951 351 919 10 2 $20.61 40 mm damping plate 964 351 096 02 2 $3.39 36 mm damping plate 964 351 096 01 2 $3.39 Vent Valve 930 351 919 00 2 $11.02 Protective Plate Right 964 351 804 02 1 $15.59 Protective Plate Left 964 351 803 02 1 $15.59 Dust cap 930 351 927 00 2 $0.83 REAR BRAKE DESCRIPTION PART # QUANTITY PRICE EACH Connecting Line 951 352 971 00 1 $42.41 Expanding Sping 951 352 950 00 1 $26.50 Spring Plate Repair Kit 993 352 959 01 1 $16.31 Spring Plate Repair Kit 993 352 959 00 1 $16.31 30 mm set of seals 951 352 919 11 2 $19.22 28 mm set of seals 951 352 919 10 2 $19.24 30 mm damping plate 964 352 096 00 2 $2.93 28 mm damping plate 996 352 086 01 2 $5.22 Vent Valve 930 351 919 00 2 $11.02 Protective Plate 964 352 801 00 1 $42.35 Dust cap 930 351 927 00 2 $0.83 some notes Before you order anything I would spend two minutes going over the caliper. Corrosion buildup behind the spring plates could be the sole reason for the pad not retracting. If you remove a pad and operate the brake pedal (just a tiny, tiny bit) you can tell immediately if your problem is related to the pistons/lines or the plates. Most mechanics (mistakenly) just file away the edges of the pads so that they won't bind on the plates instead of doing the job properly and replacing the plates. You don't necessarily have to drill out the retaining bolt, just apply enough heat to release the loctite threadlocker. When rebuilding my front calipers the crap buildup behind the spring plates was so bad that I couldn't replace the seals without first removing the plates. If you decide to rebuild the caliper be aware that the reason the Porsche sourced rebuild kits cost so much is that they include two pistons. In the USA the seals & boots are available separately for less than $4USD. Take a look at your caliper spring plates and make sure they are not pushing away from the caliper. If so, they can be replaced for $13USD/each. As long as you use heat and a T27 Torx head-driver you shouldn't have any problems removing them. People start having problems when they don't use heat on the bolt and they mistakenly try a hex-driver (allen key) which completely mangles the bolt. Jason: Instead of copper paste try something like Permatex Brake Quiet or the Loctite Disk Brake Quiet stick. The Permatex usually comes in a spray container and you apply either product to the back of the pads. Larry Herman: If you wipe a very tiny amount of silicone grease on seals and on the pistons, your brakes will slide together easily and the seals will not stick. The trace amount of silicone does not seem to harm or contaminate the fluid. John Hajny (RedlineMan): One mistake people make when rebuilding brakes is to reassemble everything when clean and dry. DUMB. You should soak EVERYTHING in brake fluid when you assemble it, then clean it off with brake clean AFTER everything is together. All the internal surfaces need to be wetted or air bubbles can stick to them, making it a bear to bleed successfully. Seals need to be wet so you can get things together without tearing them and so they will move when called to. Gus 1. First you will need an air compressor to blow air into the lines - 2. Second cover all exit ports except the one you are going to use to blow air into - 3. Get 2 blocks of wood that are narrow enough to fit down between the two caliper halfs and leave about a 1/2 inch of play for one block and about an inch for the other block 4. Set air pressure to a low setting - Set the first block of wood in the caliper and blow air into the port 5. The calipers pistons should each pop out a little until they come in contact with the block of wood. 6. Remove the first block of wood , replace with second block of wood and reduce air pressure further - then blow air into port- pistons should come out further. 7. At this point you should be able to remnove the pistons by hand. 8. Odds are that you will distroy several of the dust (seals) covers in the next process . The dust covers tend to get stcuk to the caliper - I used a small screw driver that I have filed down and rounded the tip so it is smooth. Gentle here but go around the outside of the dust cover looking for apoint to get under the cover with the screw driver an gentle work the cover free. Here the dust cover may stick or tear as you try to remove - so be careful - they are fitted into a small grove around the piston area and pressed into place. 9. The seal for the piston should come out with the piston so ther eshould not be a problem getting the seals out. 10. Removing the pistons - they are very tight, so be careful not to twist and jam sideways as you remove. DO NOT GRAB the outside of the piston with any metal tool unless you plan to repace. Use the lip that the dust cover fits into as point to pull on - but use a plastic bar or plastic clamp to help-
#7
Nordschleife Master
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(notes?... ya mean I should be taking... notes, DFinn?) ![manual](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rtfm.gif)
[sigh]
(to discover a whole new level of my inattentiveness -- not the best way to close out the old year.)
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[sigh]
(to discover a whole new level of my inattentiveness -- not the best way to close out the old year.)
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#8
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I've got a long way to go to catch up with the likes of you, Lonnie! The notes just help me organize my thoughts.
It's also very instructive for me to organized the various comments and suggestions around here. As a first time owner, and requisite diy'er, I need all the reference material I can get!
Lonnie, please keep the knowledge flowing and I'll try and mirror it back where I'm able.
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
Dave
It's also very instructive for me to organized the various comments and suggestions around here. As a first time owner, and requisite diy'er, I need all the reference material I can get!
Lonnie, please keep the knowledge flowing and I'll try and mirror it back where I'm able.
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
Dave