- brake rebuild
      Part list
        964 351 096 02 damping plate 40 mm (mushroom)
        964 351 096 01 damping plate 36 mm (mushroom)
        964 351 959 01 repair kit spring plate
        964 351 959 00 repair kit spring plate
        951 351 919 11 set seals 40 mm (w/ pistons)
        951 351 919 10 set seals 36 mm (w/ pistons)
        965 352 939 04 set of brake pads
      Part List - better
        FRONT BRAKE
          DESCRIPTION PART # QUANTITY PRICE EACH
          Connecting Line 951 351 971 00 1 $25.30
          Expanding Sping 951 352 950 00 1 $26.50
          Spring Plate Repair Kit 964 351 959 01 1 $16.31
          Spring Plate Repair Kit 964 351 959 00 1 $16.31
          40 mm set of seals 951 351 919 11 2 $21.65
          36 mm set of seals 951 351 919 10 2 $20.61
          40 mm damping plate 964 351 096 02 2 $3.39
          36 mm damping plate 964 351 096 01 2 $3.39
          Vent Valve 930 351 919 00 2 $11.02
          Protective Plate Right 964 351 804 02 1 $15.59
          Protective Plate Left 964 351 803 02 1 $15.59
          Dust cap 930 351 927 00 2 $0.83
        REAR BRAKE
          DESCRIPTION PART # QUANTITY PRICE EACH
          Connecting Line 951 352 971 00 1 $42.41
          Expanding Sping 951 352 950 00 1 $26.50
          Spring Plate Repair Kit 993 352 959 01 1 $16.31
          Spring Plate Repair Kit 993 352 959 00 1 $16.31
          30 mm set of seals 951 352 919 11 2 $19.22
          28 mm set of seals 951 352 919 10 2 $19.24
          30 mm damping plate 964 352 096 00 2 $2.93
          28 mm damping plate 996 352 086 01 2 $5.22
          Vent Valve 930 351 919 00 2 $11.02
          Protective Plate 964 352 801 00 1 $42.35
          Dust cap 930 351 927 00 2 $0.83
      some notes
        Before you order anything I would spend two minutes going over the
          caliper. Corrosion buildup behind the spring plates could be the sole
          reason for the pad not retracting. If you remove a pad and operate
          the brake pedal (just a tiny, tiny bit) you can tell immediately if
          your problem is related to the pistons/lines or the plates. Most
          mechanics (mistakenly) just file away the edges of the pads so that
          they won't bind on the plates instead of doing the job properly and
          replacing the plates. You don't necessarily have to drill out the
          retaining bolt, just apply enough heat to release the loctite
          threadlocker. When rebuilding my front calipers the crap buildup
          behind the spring plates was so bad that I couldn't replace the seals
          without first removing the plates. If you decide to rebuild the
          caliper be aware that the reason the Porsche sourced rebuild kits
          cost so much is that they include two pistons. In the USA the seals &
          boots are available separately for less than $4USD.
        Take a look at your caliper spring plates and make sure they are not
          pushing away from the caliper. If so, they can be replaced for
          $13USD/each. As long as you use heat and a T27 Torx head-driver you
          shouldn't have any problems removing them. People start having
          problems when they don't use heat on the bolt and they mistakenly try
          a hex-driver (allen key) which completely mangles the bolt.
        Jason: Instead of copper paste try something like Permatex Brake Quiet 
          or the Loctite Disk Brake Quiet stick. The Permatex usually comes in
          a spray container and you apply either product to the back of the
          pads.
        Larry Herman: If you wipe a very tiny amount of silicone grease on
          seals and on the pistons, your brakes will slide together easily and
          the seals will not stick. The trace amount of silicone does not seem
          to harm or contaminate the fluid.
        John Hajny (RedlineMan): One mistake people make when rebuilding brakes
          is to reassemble everything when clean and dry. DUMB. You should soak
          EVERYTHING in brake fluid when you assemble it, then clean it off
          with brake clean AFTER everything is together. All the internal
          surfaces need to be wetted or air bubbles can stick to them, making
          it a bear to bleed successfully. Seals need to be wet so you can get
          things together without tearing them and so they will move when
          called to.
        Gus
          1. First you will need an air compressor to blow air into the lines -
          2. Second cover all exit ports except the one you are going to use to
            blow air into -
          3. Get 2 blocks of wood that are narrow enough to fit down between the
            two caliper halfs and leave about a 1/2 inch of play for one block
            and about an inch for the other block
          4. Set air pressure to a low setting - Set the first block of wood in
            the caliper and blow air into the port
          5. The calipers pistons should each pop out a little until they come
            in contact with the block of wood.
          6. Remove the first block of wood , replace with second block of wood
            and reduce air pressure further - then blow air into port- pistons
            should come out further.
          7. At this point you should be able to remnove the pistons by hand.
          8. Odds are that you will distroy several of the dust (seals) covers
            in the next process . The dust covers tend to get stcuk to the
            caliper - I used a small screw driver that I have filed down and
            rounded the tip so it is smooth. Gentle here but go around the
            outside of the dust cover looking for apoint to get under the cover
            with the screw driver an gentle work the cover free. Here the dust
            cover may stick or tear as you try to remove - so be careful - they
            are fitted into a small grove around the piston area and pressed
            into place.
          9. The seal for the piston should come out with the piston so ther
            eshould not be a problem getting the seals out.
          10. Removing the pistons - they are very tight, so be careful not to
            twist and jam sideways as you remove. DO NOT GRAB the outside of
            the piston with any metal tool unless you plan to repace. Use the
            lip that the dust cover fits into as point to pull on - but use a
            plastic bar or plastic clamp to help-