Distributor stuck
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Hey guys, after finally getting everything settled after finding a bad coil, I need to replace the distributor belt and install the vent kit. I had planned on doing this last week while adjusting the valves, but ran into problems with the coil and didn't have time to tackle the distributor.
I did try to remove it during the process of doing the valves and it seemed really stuck in the block. Are there any photos of where to pry to get the dang thing out? I searched and could not find anything....just don't want to damage it getting it out of the car. Have the belt, pin and vent kit in-hand ready to go.
Thanks,
Jim
I did try to remove it during the process of doing the valves and it seemed really stuck in the block. Are there any photos of where to pry to get the dang thing out? I searched and could not find anything....just don't want to damage it getting it out of the car. Have the belt, pin and vent kit in-hand ready to go.
Thanks,
Jim
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I thought I remembered that also....might have to give that a try if I can't get the dang thing out by tapping it with a rubber hammer and doing a little prying.
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I did mine a while back and had a lot of trouble getting the body out. I tapped it repeatedly on the side with a hammer, whilst pulling hard on the body. It came out after about 10 minutes of that. It was a lot harder getting it back in (with a new o-ring)
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After reading this about how hard it is to get back in, is it allowable to lube the new o-ring or does it have to be inserted dry?
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I can't remember specifically, but I'm sure I would have oiled it, or wet it with saliva.
I had to be suprisingly brutal to get it in - a piece of wood onto the body and bring out the hammer again...
The hard part was being sure the teeth were meshing properly as it was so reluctant to go in that it felt as if the two sets of drive teeth were fouling.
I had to be suprisingly brutal to get it in - a piece of wood onto the body and bring out the hammer again...
The hard part was being sure the teeth were meshing properly as it was so reluctant to go in that it felt as if the two sets of drive teeth were fouling.
#11
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I had no trouble putting mine back in. You risk damaging the o-ring if you do not lubricate it. Silicone grease is what I used, but motor oil should be fine.
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I've had to use a regular crow-bar to get out the distributor numerous times - it fits perfectly under the dizzy and with a single rock of the bar, the dizzy pops up. It's the only thing I've ever needed my crow-bar for!!
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Last edited by garrett376; 01-09-2013 at 12:02 PM.
#15
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Dow 111 O ring lube . A number 1 O ring lube .
O rings need to be lubed to work .
A dry O ring is an unhappy O ring .
The O ring on the distributor gets lubed from under by the motor oil .
A crow bar ?
Porsche is looking down from heaven and shaking a fist .
O rings need to be lubed to work .
A dry O ring is an unhappy O ring .
The O ring on the distributor gets lubed from under by the motor oil .
A crow bar ?
Porsche is looking down from heaven and shaking a fist .