Clutch pedal sticking
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch pedal sticking
I've got a list of to-do's on my car, and this is near the top.
My clutch pedal sticks, but only after driving a long distance at a time. My '93 911 is my daily driver and only car, firstly. (blasphemy, maybe) I commute 7 miles to and from work every day without a problem. However, if I drive say 60 miles at a time, especially in stop and go traffic, my clutch pedal will start to stick as if its depressed maybe 20%.
The problem is not just that I'm revving the engine while driving with the clutch pedal partly depressed. The problem is, if the clutch pedal is stuck 20% depressed, I cannot shift into first or second gear from a stop without difficulty (some safety mechanism that prevents inadvertenly shifting into a low gear maybe?). What I have to do is take the top part of my foot and pull the clutch pedal the rest of the way towards me before shifting from a stop for me to be able to shift back into first gear.
Otherwise I have no transmission issues. I'm not sure whether its something a little WD40 will solve, or whether I need an entire rebuild. Its not something that prevents me from driving my car, but every time I need to drive a distance, it inevitably starts happening. Any thoughts on how to solve this would be appreciated.
Side notes - 108k miles on the car. No idea whether its had a clutch rebuild.
My clutch pedal sticks, but only after driving a long distance at a time. My '93 911 is my daily driver and only car, firstly. (blasphemy, maybe) I commute 7 miles to and from work every day without a problem. However, if I drive say 60 miles at a time, especially in stop and go traffic, my clutch pedal will start to stick as if its depressed maybe 20%.
The problem is not just that I'm revving the engine while driving with the clutch pedal partly depressed. The problem is, if the clutch pedal is stuck 20% depressed, I cannot shift into first or second gear from a stop without difficulty (some safety mechanism that prevents inadvertenly shifting into a low gear maybe?). What I have to do is take the top part of my foot and pull the clutch pedal the rest of the way towards me before shifting from a stop for me to be able to shift back into first gear.
Otherwise I have no transmission issues. I'm not sure whether its something a little WD40 will solve, or whether I need an entire rebuild. Its not something that prevents me from driving my car, but every time I need to drive a distance, it inevitably starts happening. Any thoughts on how to solve this would be appreciated.
Side notes - 108k miles on the car. No idea whether its had a clutch rebuild.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
sorry if I did duplicate a part of your post. I've never really understand exactly what a "heavy" clutch means. All I know is mine will sometimes stay partly depressed after I release my foot.
#4
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
First thing to do is to bleed the clutch line at the clutch slave cylinder (this is at the top of the transmission and you will have to remove the left (driver side) rear wheel to get access to it.
Check the condition of the hose to the clutch slave cylinder and replace if needed (with age they give when pressure is applied).
Slave cylinder toast... easy to replace... replace the hose at the same time...
The thread I posted by mistake in this thread... but try the first two options first.
and... report back.
#6
Registered User
Hey CBWAYO i had the same problem. My guess is its your slave cylinder hydraulic line. It sounds as though its rotted and as it warms up it gets softer and starts to balloon. Mine was totally rotted and i replaced the slave cylinder and hose and it solved the sticking clutch pedal. I dont know if it was the hose or the cylinder that did it but you should probably go ahead and do both its not too expensive... Vertex auto had the best price on the slave for 95.00 and the hose was 42.00 but i dont remember where i got the hose. Good luck.
#7
Nordschleife Master
Do a search, this forum, under 'slave' and you'll find a bunch of replacement maintenance stories.
Those w/ JasonA's and Garrett's names you'll find clarifying. I believe there's a DIY on this, as well.
After seeing the guts of mine at 95k one year ago, when I replaced it and the hose -- guts were black goo even after repeated flushings -- this one's a no-brainer in my book if no record of recent replacement.
Order the slave & hose. Do the replacement. Enjoy the after.
Those w/ JasonA's and Garrett's names you'll find clarifying. I believe there's a DIY on this, as well.
After seeing the guts of mine at 95k one year ago, when I replaced it and the hose -- guts were black goo even after repeated flushings -- this one's a no-brainer in my book if no record of recent replacement.
Order the slave & hose. Do the replacement. Enjoy the after.
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#9
Burning Brakes
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#10
Nordschleife Master
(Besides, no time is lost that way, as master will always be easier to access but far lesser chance of being a successful solution. Slave & hose... in their own league of remote accessibility & righteous salvation.)
Of the posts past, none come to mind where bad clutch = bad master.
Tons of bad clutch = bad slave. (It's HELL down in slave galley of our ships. Lots of casualties in our wake.
Master leads a pampered, though dusty, existence 'on the bridge'.
#11
Drifting
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Had the same symptoms when I first bought my car. Bleeding plus replacing the slave hose fixed it. Try just bleeding it first (unless you see evidence that the hose is bad). Bleeding alone may take care of it.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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I had the same problem, bleeding the slave didn't work, nor did it or the line look too bad. I took a look at the master, and well, it was all full of grease and crap. Took some brake cleaner and some elbow grease to it and cleaned it out...fixed it and the pedal doesn't hang at all anymore.