oil return pipe leak/heat exchanger down
09-03-2008, 11:52 AM
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oil return pipe leak/heat exchanger down
Hi
I would like to stop a leak at the junction between the oil return pipe and the engine crankcase on the left side of the engine .it drips onto the heat exchanger ,hence the smell.
i do not think it is possible to retighten the junction bolt due to lack of space (if you think it is possible ,please advise !!)
So ,I think I'll have to take the exhaust and heat exchanger down
i have searched the forum-perhaps not well enough- but could not find advice on how best to do it ,what sort of tools are needed,tips ...Could somebody point me in the right direction ?
Peter
I would like to stop a leak at the junction between the oil return pipe and the engine crankcase on the left side of the engine .it drips onto the heat exchanger ,hence the smell.
i do not think it is possible to retighten the junction bolt due to lack of space (if you think it is possible ,please advise !!)
So ,I think I'll have to take the exhaust and heat exchanger down
i have searched the forum-perhaps not well enough- but could not find advice on how best to do it ,what sort of tools are needed,tips ...Could somebody point me in the right direction ?
Peter
09-03-2008, 06:02 PM
#2
Hi Peter,
Just be sure the leak is from there and not coming from somewhere above around one of the cylinders and making it's way down to that point. Make sure to get everything nice and clean first to be sure. Sorry I cant help any more.
Just be sure the leak is from there and not coming from somewhere above around one of the cylinders and making it's way down to that point. Make sure to get everything nice and clean first to be sure. Sorry I cant help any more.
09-03-2008, 07:26 PM
#3
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Dropping the exhaust is not that bad of a procedure. The heat exchangers(stock) are not as heavy as you'd think. I am not sure where you are, but salt/road grime can be a problem on the fasteners. You will need a 12MM deep offset box wrench (for some of the exhaust header fasteners) and a super long 8MM (check me on this one) hex key wrench for the other fasteners(the "inside" header bolts that are up inside the holes through the heat exchangers) Take off the mufflers, and the cat, and drop the rest as one piece.
Its a straightforward job, but if you have rust, (even if you don't) you will most definitely want new exhaust studs. Buy new studs, exhaust port gaskets, and new fasteners, as well as some Wurth Copper grease for reassembly.
When you put the header gaskets on, use a drop or two of super glue to hold them in place while you wrestle with the header.... (that's advice worth $100 right there... )
Have fun. It should take you about 4 hours the first time. Now I can do it in about 45 mins.
Its a straightforward job, but if you have rust, (even if you don't) you will most definitely want new exhaust studs. Buy new studs, exhaust port gaskets, and new fasteners, as well as some Wurth Copper grease for reassembly.
When you put the header gaskets on, use a drop or two of super glue to hold them in place while you wrestle with the header.... (that's advice worth $100 right there... )
Have fun. It should take you about 4 hours the first time. Now I can do it in about 45 mins.
09-03-2008, 10:48 PM
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if you get the correct wrenches, you can tighten up the fitting. You probably will only need to turn the fitting a 1/16th of a turn. I did it to mine, w/o the HE drop.
Although it is a lot easier with the HE's out of the way.
Although it is a lot easier with the HE's out of the way.
09-04-2008, 05:02 AM
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many thanks to you all for your precious comments
I 'll double double check next week that no oil come above !
Also ,colin ,you say :"if you get the correct wrenches, you can tighten up the fitting. ".
To me ,it looked like Mission Impossible .Could you please give more details of what type of wrench you used :it would be so much easier if I could avoid taking the HE down!!!
I 'll double double check next week that no oil come above !
Also ,colin ,you say :"if you get the correct wrenches, you can tighten up the fitting. ".
To me ,it looked like Mission Impossible .Could you please give more details of what type of wrench you used :it would be so much easier if I could avoid taking the HE down!!!
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09-04-2008, 11:11 AM
#8
Be careful when you tighten that oil line. It is 2 pieces with the oil line going to an adapter which screws into the engine case. You must use a proper sized wrench to hold the adapter when tightening the oil line. Torque rating is pretty high. But you don't hold the adapter when tightening, you can strip the thread on the engine case itself. Then you are really screwed.
11-03-2009, 02:54 PM
#14
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Hey - I forgot to say above - WELCOME to the Forum!!
As well - take your time and I use PB Blaster and let the nuts soak overnight. Some folks use heat quite effectively. Anyway - keep up posted, OK? If you run into difficulties - just start a new thread and we'll be around to offer both advice and encouragement!
Best to you!
John
As well - take your time and I use PB Blaster and let the nuts soak overnight. Some folks use heat quite effectively. Anyway - keep up posted, OK? If you run into difficulties - just start a new thread and we'll be around to offer both advice and encouragement!
Best to you!
John
11-03-2009, 08:25 PM
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John and Wachuko many thanks for both the welcome the tips, advice and photos. One futher question, is it difficult to tighten the pipe to the engine, it looks from the photos that its a 2 handed 2 spanner job. The trick I assume is not the undo the engine side as you tighten the pipe?
