Hi folks. I could really use some help identifying and valuing the parts in a 964 that’s been collecting dust in my garage for a few years. Most importantly, I’d like to figure out just what engine and transaxle I have, and possibly what they’re worth. I'm no Porsche-guy, so go easy on me!

The short history goes like this… Back in 2000, with no Porsche experience whatsoever, I became the 3rd owner of a stock 1989 C4. It had about 95,000 miles on the clock. Living off-road in Wyoming, a pavement pounder's kinda pointless, so my intention was to have fun building a Dakar-era 959 replica. I looked for about two years to find the "right" donor car.

I had recently started a welding/fabrication business and my time became too limited to work on the fun project. I sold the car in 2002 to a guy involved in SCCA ProRally. Here’s what I recall he did, as he prepared the car:

- Seam welded the structure
- Installed full roll-cage
- Welded the sunroof closed
- Replaced all glass (but windscreen) with plastic
- fiberglass fenders
- Kevlar seats and 5-point belts
- DMS shocks at all corners
- Swapped in a “German racing engine”
- Installed a “hill climb” transaxle and front diff

I bought the car back a few years ago, after it came down hard on the front end during a rally. The impact ripped the bottom of the trunk out, and I recall there are some cracks in the sub frame where the lower control arms attach. It still drives and brakes straight, and is wicked quick. (Scares the heck outta me when I’ve driven it.) I thought I might use the drive train for something interesting later, like maybe a long-travel AWD buggy, for exploring and enjoying Wyoming's 8000+ miles of dirt roads, but as yet I've done nothing.

I received the original 3.6, AWD transaxle, and front diff back on a pallet with the car, too. It was running well when it was removed, and has about 100K miles on it. It’s also collecting dust in my shop.

The currently installed “hill climb” transaxle has driver-adjustable torque split. In the cockpit, there’s a small master cylinder under the dash, with a **** for setting its piston depth, and a VDO gauge to display pressure. I assume this directly acts upon a slave cylinder at the transaxle, adjusting lockup in the center diff. Top speed is only about 128 mph with the final drive gears installed. It’s a real stump-puller.

The engine leaks nothing, nor produces any smoke – even after months of sitting. It currently doesn’t idle very well, but anything over idle is just incredible. I think the idle problem is simply a vacuum leak or engine management issue, but I just don’t know enough to make any better diagnosis. I don’t even know what engine management system is used. Fearing a vacuum leak, I haven’t driven the car but a few miles, as I do live off road and haven’t wanted to suck a bunch of dirt into what could be a really valuable, strong engine.

I would really appreciate learning anything I could about what I have. I’d like to get the idle problem solved too, if possible, and make a decision about what to do with the whole project, spare engine, etc…

I would be most happy to converse about this via this forum, or direct email. I can produce photos or videos of anything that might be helpful.

Thanks to everyone who spent the time to read this. It’s greatly appreciated!

Darrin (ki7xh)
Wyoming

 

This thread is useless without pics.

 

Let's start with your engine first. What's the serial number of the "German racing engine"? You can find it here:

 

It sounds like you may have the engine and transmission from a C4RS. You can find the engine model number near the fan on the right side of the case M64/01 is an example. The transmission model number can be found on the bottom of the case and might be something like G64/01

 

I think you should fix it up and then sell it to me cheap .
Or just sell it to me cheap .
You need a truck ....

 

I am cheap as well.

 

I am not going to buy you !

 

Okay, pix... Being unfamiliar with posting pix on Rennlist, I just snapped some quick shots and posted them on my personal website...

http://www.ki7xh.com/rennlist.htm

The engine serial number appears to be *62N80621* but the "N" is pretty skinny. I think it's an "N".

As for trucks, I have WAY to many, including four Unimogs and my business is building these...

http://www.ruf-inc.com/aatrecfm.htm

I've had this car for a while, and I am really looking forward to learning something about it. It's been far too long. But I definitely feel like it's time to s**t or get off the pot! It may be a great project to just put back together and beat around in.

Muchos gracias to everyone.

- Darrin

 

I bet that adjustable front diff would be great for track cars.

 

woah.

That airborne pic can best be described as a scene out of Porsche hell. ("...if you don't settle down that idle, I'm sending you off to stadium dirt jumps!" ) Extraordinary.

imo, it's beater material, now, unfortunately. And I'm really sorry to say that. Maybe an off-road rail is best for that engine. Keep the oil fresh and the air filter cleaned, and who knows -- that engine/drivetrain may last a long, long time despite everything.
BTW, that engine's from a later vehicle. A 92-94, I believe.

 

I think the motor you have currently in the car is a stock motor (or started as a stock motor, don't know the internals). Also, looking at the front strut brace, it seems bent...

 

Great pictures, that is pretty cool. The front doesn't look too bad to repair as you can buy the front pan still. I'd be more afraid of the wiring more than anything.

 

A little research online yielded that maybe this IS a European RS engine. From... http://www.porsche964.co.uk/variants/confusion.htm
I read this, under the European Carrera RS section...

"Engine serial numbers for all 1992 RS variants are in the sequence 62N80001 to 62N 90000"

Was that too simple? Shoot - I didn't even know where the serial number was before I asked here. Thanks to ilko for the photo.

With the impact to the front, I'm afraid the car will never be really safe on the road or track. But considering how "little" damage was done and how straight it drives, it sure illustrates that that Porsche cars are tough animals, and/or that seam welding and full cages really strengthen things up even more.

If I get time this evening, I'll have my wife shoot a little video while I fire it up and drive it over to my lift. (To check transaxle ID) I don't expect much... There's 3-year old Sunoco 109 in the tank.

- Darrin

 

That engine number sequence also includes cup cars. You need the chassis number to distinguish between RS, NGT and cup. You should find this stamped under the gas tank as you look in the trunk from the front.

 

boxsey911 - Unfortunately, I have no idea what chassis donated the engine to the current chassis (a US-market 1989 C4). The previous owner came up with the powerplant while the car was not owned by me. Sorry.