Notchy Shift and 750 idle
#1
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Still working on the bugs from a newly aquired 1990 with 113k miles.
Would appreciate some feedback/comments on the following:
Shifting is still a bit notchy. Not hard. Not missing shifts. No bad sounds. Just a lot of mechanical feeling as I move from gear to gear. I changed gear oil to Mobil Delvac 75-90 after researching all feedback here. Seemed to be a bit better but feeling came back after an hour. Checked all the bushings in the gear shift slide and everyting looks tight and new (maybe prior owner had this done). The bushings between the gear shift rod and the coupling onto the transmission has a little side-to-side play that allows a 1/4 inch or so of rotation in the rod without engaging the transmission. However, I think the coupling and bushings are pressed onto the end of the shift rod. I notice that the coupling alone is not called out in any parts diagram. The rod with coupling is called out and costs $400. Not something to replace on a hunch.
Does anyone think that amount of play causes the notchy feeling? Any tricks to tightening it up? I suppose I could take the whole rod assembly to a machine shop for work. Any other anti-notchy ideas?
Part 2. Car seems to idle between 750 and 800 if the tach is that precise. Occassionally it runs close to the spec 880. When it is low there is just a slight amount of rough feeling but still running OK - no danger of stalling. When I push the car hard there is a slight fluttering air sound and it feels like it is down slightly on power. I will have a compression check done next week.
Is the poor man's DME reset something to try here or am I just being overly sensitive?
I will probably pull the motor and do a top end or complete rebuild in the winter when the weather is cooler. I think I have an oil leak from one or two jugs and through bolts. Just trying to knock out the simple things to enjoy the car during the summer.
Would appreciate some feedback/comments on the following:
Shifting is still a bit notchy. Not hard. Not missing shifts. No bad sounds. Just a lot of mechanical feeling as I move from gear to gear. I changed gear oil to Mobil Delvac 75-90 after researching all feedback here. Seemed to be a bit better but feeling came back after an hour. Checked all the bushings in the gear shift slide and everyting looks tight and new (maybe prior owner had this done). The bushings between the gear shift rod and the coupling onto the transmission has a little side-to-side play that allows a 1/4 inch or so of rotation in the rod without engaging the transmission. However, I think the coupling and bushings are pressed onto the end of the shift rod. I notice that the coupling alone is not called out in any parts diagram. The rod with coupling is called out and costs $400. Not something to replace on a hunch.
Does anyone think that amount of play causes the notchy feeling? Any tricks to tightening it up? I suppose I could take the whole rod assembly to a machine shop for work. Any other anti-notchy ideas?
Part 2. Car seems to idle between 750 and 800 if the tach is that precise. Occassionally it runs close to the spec 880. When it is low there is just a slight amount of rough feeling but still running OK - no danger of stalling. When I push the car hard there is a slight fluttering air sound and it feels like it is down slightly on power. I will have a compression check done next week.
Is the poor man's DME reset something to try here or am I just being overly sensitive?
I will probably pull the motor and do a top end or complete rebuild in the winter when the weather is cooler. I think I have an oil leak from one or two jugs and through bolts. Just trying to knock out the simple things to enjoy the car during the summer.
#2
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You may want to check your WOT switch (Wide Open Throttle) on the right side of the throttle body. Mine was broken and not making contact at WOT. I have heard a few people having this problem. Car seemed down on power when under full throttle. Also, see if you can get a scantool and check codes. I had a knock sensor fault, and it was a simple fix by cleaning the contacts on the plug. I believe the fault actually retards timing, which would cause you to be down on power too.
I am not saying there are related to you issues, just some simple things to check and eliminate.
I am not saying there are related to you issues, just some simple things to check and eliminate.
#6
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Hello.
I have the same issue too. I replaced the geabox oil with Swepco which made some improvement but by no means perfect. My fatehr in law has exactly the same 911 C4 1989 as me and driving his is a million miles away better than mine... If you have any joy, let me know too!!
Greg
I have the same issue too. I replaced the geabox oil with Swepco which made some improvement but by no means perfect. My fatehr in law has exactly the same 911 C4 1989 as me and driving his is a million miles away better than mine... If you have any joy, let me know too!!
Greg
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#8
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There was an earlier thread about this same issue, and I remember that you can buy the shift coupler bushings separately, I think Pelican has them. I bought a pair when I did the RS Short Shift install and when replacing the old ones found the shift coupler itself had a crack in it, so I welded it up and all it good sofar.
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