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Power Steering pump rebuild DIY

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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:01 AM
  #16  
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Finished my rebuild today with the rennbay seal kit. Anybody know the torque on the 4 case bolts?
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 04:30 AM
  #17  
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This is fantastic!! Bill, thanks for the post!

If I might ask - where did your pump leak? Mine just seems to squirt the valve cover somehow and leak onto the exhaust.

Thanks for the instructions, and especially the link to buy the parts. I really appreciate it!
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 10:29 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by RicardoD
Finished my rebuild today with the rennbay seal kit. Anybody know the torque on the 4 case bolts?
I torqued mine to 17 ft-lbs. I didn't know the official specs so I used the torque for a generic 8mm bolt. The pump has worked fine for 2 years without any leaks.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:38 PM
  #19  
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Thanks Rob. I arrived at around 18ft-lbs last night based upon the table here so your information confirms that.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #20  
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Here a a couple of photos from my rebuild. 1st picture shows what is required when you pop the retention ring back onto the main shaft. It has to then recess into the counterbore on the piece the holds the vanes.

The main seal that needed replacing on my pump was the main shaft seal. It is beat to crap in the photo because I was trying to pull it out and destroyed all the rubber. It has an insert molded metal collar and the seal was an SOB to remove. In the youtube video it just seems to easily pop out. Not the case on mine. I actually put some penetrating oil on it and left it overnight then pried it loss with a screwdriver the next day after several tries. I was scared to damage the pump by applying too much force. I was just about to put it in the oven at 300F to loosen up the press fit when it finally popped free. You can see the new blue seal in the background that I then popped into place with a socket that fit perfect to tap it in gently back into the pump.

Great thread. Over $700 for a rebuild pump on Pelican with a core exchange. Or use this $20 seal kit and do it yourself.
Attached Images
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pump.jpg (243.3 KB, 12226 views)
File Type: jpg
pump2.jpg (53.5 KB, 8846 views)
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 04:16 AM
  #21  
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Default Power Steering Pump Binding

I am having a problem with the pump shaft binding after the pump is reassembled.
I have had it apart numerous times, made sure the snap ring is seated properly, read WSYBERT's thread, watched the utube video of a 944 pump rebuild but as soon as I tighten down the 4 housing bolts the pump shaft binds.

What really dumb thing am I doing wrong?-it's not that hard
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 02:10 AM
  #22  
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Maybe some of the veins are not in correctly, rounded side facing out?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 03:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Travis - sflraver
Maybe some of the veins are not in correctly, rounded side facing out?
I have attached a photo of the pump showing the veins. I have just been examining each vein under a magnifing glass and I cannot see the one side has a more rounded edge more so the the other side.
I can see that there is one way the veins do not go - the pump will not turn at all if they are insert the wrong way.
I am sure the answer is there and when I figure it out I will kick myself.
The colour on the veins is the flash from the camera and is not do=irt or contamination.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1346912139

Last edited by Twood; Dec 6, 2012 at 01:24 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 03:43 AM
  #24  
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Default Power Steering Pump

Could the be the answer?
I was looking at the photo that RicardoD posted above my last post - It looks like I may have the outer part of the pump in the wrong way.
Should the V mark be showing or not?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 04:15 AM
  #25  
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The v was showing on mine. But the hole wasn't, can you flip the ring over? Is their a v on the other side?

One thing to note is that there is lots of endfloat on the shaft and if you push it in i guess it may bind, does it bind if you pull the shaft out and turn it?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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I'd love to help but have not suggestions to offer. My pump did turn freely by hand when I was done. I hope you resolve your problem soon.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #27  
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What are the symptoms for determining if a rebuild is required? Is it just leaks?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alexjc4
The v was showing on mine. But the hole wasn't, can you flip the ring over? Is their a v on the other side?

One thing to note is that there is lots of endfloat on the shaft and if you push it in i guess it may bind, does it bind if you pull the shaft out and turn it?
There is only a" V" on one side. I am sure that when I disassembled it that the V was showing.

I have just pulled the pump apart for what seems like the hundredth time and completely reassembled it. The pump shaft was definitely binding on the end of the shaft. I pulled out the main seal and then gently reinserted it. It looks like that I may have pushed this seal in too far when i first installed it into the housing causing the top of the pump shaft to bind inside the pump.

It now is turning much more freely so will reinstall and hope for the best.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.
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Old May 8, 2016 | 01:53 PM
  #29  
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Hey Travis,
Have you ever seen the problem shown below? Each time I replace the face seal it gets sucked into the vane energizing holes? What causes this?

Thanks!

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Old Jun 25, 2016 | 08:56 PM
  #30  
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I rebuild another pump today from my C4. Great thread. Won't have it back in the car for a while so I hope everything went back together ok.
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