wf758

OK, I'm not a wrench...and never will be, but even the simplest of tasks result in something going wrong.

Today, I had a couple of hours free and thought I would try switching out my primary and seconary mufflers, as I had bought a couple of sport mufflers this past summer. Well, first to get the car jacked up. Jacking from the engine (first time I've done this...obviously), I lowered on to my two jack stands. Guess I didn't properly account for movement, as when I lowered the car, the jack stands ripped both shark fins from the side of the car when the jack stands came in contact with the shark fin support bar.

I've read on here in the past about replacing clips, but this looks more like the plastic on the shark fin is damaged. See the pictures of the tabs below.





Also, I think it bent the screw that connects the lower support bar.



Any recommendations on best way to repair? Or should I just replace?

On another note, in the picture below you can see that the shark fin is off and the jackstand in place (properly now). What is this immediately behind the fin and why does it have some much grease/oil/grime on it? Is there something wrong here?



Thanks,
All Thumbs

Rocket Rob

Will,

You can fix this. The trick is the clean the area well and then epoxy the nylon clips back on. Allow the epoxy to set well before reinstalling. I had to do this on one of my shark fins when I replaced my rubber trim strip on the rocker panel about two years ago. The fix is holding up well.

Edit: The oil/dirt on the thermostat is not normal. It would clean the area well and then run the car to look for leaks. On my "new" C-2, I had a similar looking thermostat. The problem was one of the oil hoses connected to the thermostat was seeping. This oil was then allowing dirt to stick to it. I figured the problem was caused by old rubber so instead of replacing just the leaky one, I replaced all four. If you do end up replacing hoses, be sure to check the part number of the thermostat before ordering replacement hoses. There are two versions of the thermostat and the hoses are not inter-changable. As me how I know.

wf758

Thanks Rob, I appreciate the help.

When I bought the car and had it shipped, the shipper damaged one of the fins and that was what my shop did (expoxy it on). I can see where the epoxy was on that side. Guess both sides will be the same now!

Regarding the other issue, are you saying that is the thermostat that I'm looking at? I'll have to dig in and get a better feel for it. I just snapped the picture and thought I would ask.

Thanks,
Will

Rocket Rob

Yes, the metal item with the drain plug in it, is the thermostat.

LouZ

Yes, it is the thermostat AND the main drain plug or changing oil. I agree that you need to thoroughly clean the area and then check/tighten the hose clamps.

For the shark fin - I put the clip back in the slot, then took my soldering iron and heated the pieces till they melted together, then I used epoxy all around the broken piece and let it cure for 24h. Still holding great.

wf758

Thanks Lou.

wf758

For the epoxy repair. Do you guys epoxy the clip to the shark fin and then put the fin in place and screw it tight with the nut? TIA

Rocket Rob

Will,

You epoxy the clip on the shark fin, wait about 24 hours, then reinstall on the car with the nuts.

wf758

got it. thanks

deep_uv

At least you can drive. I can attest to that.

altarchsa

I just completed both projects on my C4, replacing leaking hoses above the thermostat and reattaching the fins. Hoses leaked from age. I ripped the fins off going over some rough terrain. (See my other posts re: repairing oil lines instead of buying new ones.)

Other posts here are accurate, but I had a tough time getting the clips with the bolt to hold when tightened. I tried about six different epoxies, glues and plastic 2-part sticks. I wound up doing the repair about four times each side with all the failures.

I finally found an epoxy specifically for plastic at O'Reilly Auto Parts (since you're here in Texas) that works GREAT. It's called "Plastic Welding System" by VersaChem. Cures in one hour, and although I let mine set overnight before final tightening, it was strong enough to install finger-tight after an hour. Thoroughly scraping the exisiting plastic surfaces seems to really help. And try to preserve those little projections on the fin that fit into the slots on the plastic/bolt. They really reinforce the adhesion, as well as position the bolt.

I also used the epoxy to build up and fill the holes for the lower brackets which pulled through the edge when the brackets were ripped away. I just epoxied fender washers either side and "Voila", new holes.

wf758

Now...how am I going to get in to the HWFM Racing with a post by a member like that? You know the only reason I looked good was b/c I had 500hp with me. When you see me in the 964, you'll wonder how I passed green.

Hope you and the family are well Steve.

wf758

Thanks. I ordered something off the net called Metalset A4. Did you try that one? If it doesn't work, I'll head down to O'Reilly.

I don't follow what you mean in this last step, but it sounds important. When you say lower brackets, what do you mean? And what are fender washers? Sorry...as I said in the lead to the thread, I'm no wrench.

Thanks.

altarchsa

I have not tried the Metalset product, but I'll swear by the Plastic Welding System product.

On both sides, there is a rod with flattened ends that bolts to the chassis on one end and through a hole on the bottom edge (lip) of the fins on the other to support the bottom of the fin. When my fins were ripped off, the bolt at the bracket just ripped through the lip on the fin, tearing out the outside edge of the lip.

I just epoxied a fender washer (which is just a general term for a washer with a large diameter relative to the hole size I think) top and bottom of the lip where the holes used to be, creating a new reinforced hole. Same principal as those little white hole reiforcers you used to lick and apply to your 3 ring binder notebook paper in school.

BTW, I went to my first DE in Denton this weekend, to learn what it's all about in anticipation of getting involved. I was amused, considering how much time I had spent getting my rocker trim to look original, when I saw that most of the serious 964 participants had run a series of sheet metal screws through the trim into the body to make sure they didn't come off. I hope that that's not an indication that the original attachment system is unreliable at speed.

wf758

Ahh...yes, I know what you are talking about. Mine is fully intact, so no issues on that front, but thanks for clarifying!

Excellent! I hope you had fun. I haven't noticed 964 participants using sheet metal screws...but quite possible for those who have turned their cars in to pure track cars. There are a number of 964s who do the DEs outside College Station. To my knowledge, none of us have had issues with the fins coming off at speed. So, I suspect you are OK for a while. Are you addicted yet? You need to come down to the Lone Star Region or Hill Country Region events in College Station. We have a great time. Lots of Rennlisters...including Steve from several posts back.