RSA, 964, or 965 for 997S convert?
#17
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A track car like a Euro RS, is not good for the road. I don't know the US cars, but wouldn't a Cup car be aweful for the road too?
Even if you buy a 965, you'll need to modify it to make it track-worthy and handle well.
Your choice may be narrowed down soon, test drive a 965, you'll either love or hate the power delivery.
Even if you buy a 965, you'll need to modify it to make it track-worthy and handle well.
Your choice may be narrowed down soon, test drive a 965, you'll either love or hate the power delivery.
#18
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#19
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I did some research on the US Cups and because of the very limited number, the price appears to be very high - so much so that I'd think twice (or more times) before updating, enhancing, preparing for track, etc. I think an RSA or just C2 with major modifications would be less expensive and as capable? I'm just learning. Then the 965 option of course... All great stuff to ponder.
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I did some research on the US Cups and because of the very limited number, the price appears to be very high - so much so that I'd think twice (or more times) before updating, enhancing, preparing for track, etc. I think an RSA or just C2 with major modifications would be less expensive and as capable? I'm just learning. Then the 965 option of course... All great stuff to ponder.
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#22
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Withou getting too far OT could you please add more details re. the GT2 EVO front bits? What is their purpose and how much would this upgrade cost?
#23
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The geometry of the front suspension on the 964 is sub optimal, especially when lowered. The car's front roll center goes underground, and the car has a lot of camber gain and bump steer. The GT2 Evo upright corrects this to some degree. It requires 2 new uprights, 993RS tie rod ends, 993 inner tie rods, and new front dampers to accomodate the 1mm wider aluminum upright flanges where the damper connects.
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#25
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The geometry of the front suspension on the 964 is sub optimal, especially when lowered. The car's front roll center goes underground, and the car has a lot of camber gain and bump steer. The GT2 Evo upright corrects this to some degree. It requires 2 new uprights, 993RS tie rod ends, 993 inner tie rods, and new front dampers to accomodate the 1mm wider aluminum upright flanges where the damper connects.
Couldn't a shim to fabricated so that the existing dampers could be reused?
Back on topic > IMO a modified 964 C2 offers the best grin per dollar on the road and track. A 965 feels a bit ponderous until the turbo explodes and the RSA is overpriced based on future collector's hopes.
#26
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Check around, try Steve Weiner at Rennsport systems and Gert at Carnewal for pricing, I think in the $1600 range, but I'm too lazy to look at the moment.
The 964 dampers are too narrow for the GT2 aluminum uprights which are 1mm thicker than the steel 964.
The 964 dampers are too narrow for the GT2 aluminum uprights which are 1mm thicker than the steel 964.
#27
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ron, you have gone off the deep end, i see you love this drug!
based on your price pt and the 3 choices given, i would take C2, rip out interior and mod as you like (keep in mind racing class, if you ever consider that).
based on your price pt and the 3 choices given, i would take C2, rip out interior and mod as you like (keep in mind racing class, if you ever consider that).
#29
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Ron,
Having been down this path a few times myself. I would go with a C2 based race car. I own a 964 US cup car, they are brillant but expensive. I have also raced a few different Porsche through the years I don't think the 964 can be beat on a $/performance ratio. Dual purpose car are just too much of a compromise from a performance and safety perspective.
Phil
Having been down this path a few times myself. I would go with a C2 based race car. I own a 964 US cup car, they are brillant but expensive. I have also raced a few different Porsche through the years I don't think the 964 can be beat on a $/performance ratio. Dual purpose car are just too much of a compromise from a performance and safety perspective.
Phil
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Curiously, it feels like finding a good RSA is easier than a nice C2. Maybe because more C2 owners drove them more often and now most examples have 100k or more on them and perhaps have been scrapped. The RSAs out there fall into 3 basic categories. Garage queen and moderately used untouched cars. Expensive. Next are the DE conversions, where some are in better shape than others and some have oem seats and wheels and others have nothing original. Third is the all-out race cars. Of those in category 1 and 2 that are candidates, some have well documented history others do not. Some have the no-sunroof option with AC that I want (LSD is a plus but I can add one). Finding the right combination in an RSA is proving more difficult that I expected. Finally the 3.3 Turbos - there are a few very nice examples out there that can be had for about the same price as an RSA. So then the question is for the same money would one rather have an RSA or a Turbo? Different animals, but there are pluses to both...
As to Phil's comment... My objective would be to ease into this platform, meaning start off "light" and build from there. Safety Devices Roll Bar where I can then bolt in the rest of the PCA approved cage. Start with it as a street / DE car and then see where it takes me. I'd be more concerned about starting off with a full race car that has higher limits because the margin of error is therefore much smaller. But, I am looking for a C2 / RSA / Turbo car that may have already been turned into a race car that can be dialed back a few notches into a DE / Street machine...
As to Phil's comment... My objective would be to ease into this platform, meaning start off "light" and build from there. Safety Devices Roll Bar where I can then bolt in the rest of the PCA approved cage. Start with it as a street / DE car and then see where it takes me. I'd be more concerned about starting off with a full race car that has higher limits because the margin of error is therefore much smaller. But, I am looking for a C2 / RSA / Turbo car that may have already been turned into a race car that can be dialed back a few notches into a DE / Street machine...