I am leaning that way now (if it ain't broke . . .) - but re-gearing is still a real possibility.
On the tighter tracks I tend to frequent, that may be a more cost effective solution to the perceived lack of grunt- I may be just geared too tall.

 

I would consider doing a full close ratio box of 2nd thru 5th. 5th is useless even in the G50/10 in my cup. I do shift to it at long tracks like Road America or Daytona, but the car hardly accelerates. The tall 2nd of the G50/10 is really nice and useful at most tracks. I would gear the car so you are at 150-155@6750, and then fill the gaps from there.

 

Thanks- I'll talk to the boys at Kinetic.

But where's the best place to source parts necessary?
What would you estimate parts 'n labour to be for 2-5 set replacment (ballpark)?

 

A good estimate for pricing is $1000 per gear. This assumes you leave it with brass synchros and do not switch to steel synchros (which cost more and the 2nd gear synchro being silly expensive). When I had my 993 re-geared and a LWF added I think the final bill was about $11k. Mine was more because it had 2nd gear fixed to the main shaft and I needed to buy a new main shaft too. (I re-geared 2-5 and used the stock 5th for 6th.)

 

Thanks Tom. But aren't all 2nd gears attached to the mainshaft?

I'd be doing 4 gears (keeping brass synchros) + LWF so about $8k?

 

2 nd is integral w/ the mainshaht only on the 6spds(and supposedly not even the very early ones and not on the motorsports /30, /32 trans either.). I mistakenly pointed that out in the other thread, too used to thinking about the 6 speeds I guess.

 

Do the steel synchros

 

Many of the 95 993 6 speed street gearboxes have a removable second gear.

 

We have established that the actual 3.8L conversion/rebuild is in the $15k-$20k range but what are 3.8L owners doing about the fuel system?

I doubt that the original 964 3.6L injectors, air flow meter and chip are adequate for a 3.8L conversion.

Is $Motec$ the only good option? What did the factory 3.8L cars use?

The goal is 350hp with a healthy area under the curve and 60k+ mile reliability. What are my options?

 

check out John's kit, the MAF, larger injectors and piggyback would allow you to map your intake to the added displacement. I still don't think the 3.8 is worth the money. add a supercharger for 1/2 the money, make more power, just keep the boost within guidelines, that is a much more economical way to go. Obviously with respect to racing you have to be considerate of class rules, etc.

 

I may be completely off at a tangent here....

is there no option to put on turbos or a supercharger kit? I believe both options are available for the 3.6, or would this wreck your racing catagory status?

Steve

 

I'm not the authority on the subject but yes they are available and yes will definitely change your class (as will the 3.8 no doubt). As to reliability- no experience with aftermatket products.

But you don't put these on engines that aren't close to 100%. If your engine is much less than that and you need a top-end rebuild, the 3.8 is an option vs. 3.6 rebuild

If your engine is gtg then forced induction is always an option.

 

I have no interest in forced induction for this car. A 3.8L seems like the best way to reach my power and performance goals.

The Vitesse kit? I think that I would be a guneia pig for this on a 3.8L 964...

 

Agreed. If you want a turbo- go factory and get a 965.

 

We're in not disagreement. I'm all in toward the 3.8L approach. Not inexpensive. Something that each one has to examine, in light of their requirements.