In the past year, or so, I've had four, or five, instances where the starter began to turn the motor over and then "let go", spinning freely. As if the solenoid was unable to hold.

Today, I had three of these in a row before the motor finally turned over.

I'm guessing I need a new starter.

Questions:

1. Can the existing starter motor be removed, rebuilt and reinstalled?
2. If replacement is the wise choice should I go with new or rebuilt?
3. Anyone have a good source for rebuilt starter motors?

 

Hawk911 just replaced his starter. Maybe you should PM him.

 

I did the starter recently. It is a bit of a bitchy job.. but eminently doable. There is lots of information here on it.. or PM me and I can walk you through it. It will help to have a long 10mm allen head wrench or a combination of universal joints. Technically its a bolt on/off, but just getting access can be tight/crabby. I ended up lowering the engine as far as I could to get my hands in there, though others here seem to have done it without that step. (not sure how... ;-)

You might crawl under there and clean up the electrical connections first. (ground and positive) Often that can make a difference with a stronger electrical current to the solenoid....but for the love of god.. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.... it won't do to arc weld your wedding ring or a wrench to the body if you don't. I forgot once and nearly soiled myself... (okay.. i did soil myself...)

I ended up getting a rebuilt/new part from Pelican, and sending them back the core, as it wasn't that much, and there were no shops locally that I could find to do it.

Good luck.. and PM if you have ??s

 

Dave,

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your starter. Yes, it can be removed and reinstalled. I will warn you, the process is not easy. Its not complicated, just awkward to reach. See https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...remove+starter

If you go the rebuilt route, you normally get a new unit and have to turn in the old one for credit (core). Pelican lists rebuilt starters - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0

No affiliation.

Edit: Engine Builder Supply has new starters for almost the same cost as rebuilt ones. If it were me, I would go for the new one. See http://www.ebsracing.com/item.wws?mf...illid=9&image=

 

Dave, here's my tale. https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/378794-wish-me-luck.html

 

Thanks guys!

I've got one on order. I guess I'll tackle this in a couple of weeks.

So, what's the consensus . . . lower the engine, or work the Houdini route?

When lowering the engine, is it simply jacking the case, removing the mount bolts and lowering a few inches? Or, must you remove any wires, connections, etc?




Three weeks I battled the front CV Joints . . . I didn't even get three days enjoyment! . . . I'm afraid to drive it for fear of getting stuck somewhere.


I love my car, really I do! . . . how could it be any other way?!

"A well sorted car", that's what the man said! Well, it will be when I've finally gotten to the bottom of these issues!! . . . or my bank account. Which ever comes first. I'm praying for the former

 

Hey - I had exactly the same symptoms over a period of time and I replaced the starter motor. Think it was around £550 including labour here in the UK.

Just one positive point that you may not appreciate it right now: I think its fantastic that these cars let us know over a period of time that the starter motor needs replacing, if it just gave up somewhere then we would really be screwed. I think its polite (although I waited several months until it *did* strand me, but that was my fault)

 

I tried doing it with various extensions and rachets but ended up lowering the engine about two inches. That distance made a big difference. You don't need to remove any wires or hoses. Just be very careful to lower too far. For me, one of the hoses going to the power steering pump was the limiting factor.

 

Dave, I am sure you can handle this, it is a pain without a lift, but very do-able. I would only install a Bosch rebuilt part, all other rebuilt units are very suspect. While you have the starter out, you should also check the ring gear for unusual wear as well as the bushing in the bell housing. A worn bushing can also contribute to the symptoms that you all out...Good luck, Jerry

 

Dave

This is a tough job without a lift. Here is what I would do having recently done this. Get those jack stands that Sears has that are 'higher' than normal stands. Take your time and get your car up on all four corners to the max that these stands can go. Remove the right rear wheel. Remove the right axel from the trans so that you've got more room to move the starter into and out of position. Obviously, have the battery disconnected before you remove the starter. You'll want to have a long extention and you'll want to use and closed ended wrench over the socket and extention before you attach them to the 15mm nut that is out of view behind the starter motor. That rear nut is the hardest part of the who project with the front nut a barrel one and easy to get to. Email me or PM me if you need help. I can give you my number also and walk you through this. On the ground it will take you about 2 hours assuming the usual struggles. A lift makes it much easier. Lucky for me I have a buddy who is great about sharing his lift :-D

 

Jerry, thanks for the words of encouragement.

mjshira, Thank you, too, for the input. One question: what do you mean by "use and closed ended wrench over the socket"?

I had thought the two bolts were allen head bolts; no? Is that what you mean by a "barrel one"?

Cheers,
Dave

 

you use the closed ended wrench to create the stability and leverage you need to work the ratchet from the very tough angle you'll be at. The nut (not allen) on the back of the starter also holds the trans to the engine. don't worry, there are more of them, so only the front is a barrel or allen nut.

 

Got it. Thanks. Clever, that!

 

You are going to have to be patient and take your time to do this little project but if you do go at it slow you'll get it fixed. Heck if I can do it, anyone can do it. Now if only I could solve my cars issue... AHHH!!! ;-)

 

Dave, we did not drop the engine a few inches, but I would have had to if Rick wouldn't have been around. The back bolt is a PITA to get to, and even worse to try putting back in. Get yourself some clearance by dropping the engine, and it should take less than 4 hrs. You may also want to think about new heat exchange tubes. Mine are pretty beat and I'm trying to find a good alternate source instead of the $120 a side Porsche wants.