Are these genuine Cup 1's?
11-08-2007, 10:55 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: behind the Corn Curtain
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11-08-2007, 11:07 AM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Noah, Who knows, who cares? Buy what you want, use what you like. For a race car like mine, every little bit helps when you are pushing the car 10/10ths. On the street it really isn't going to make a difference because you are never pushing a car 10/10ths, ever. The two environments are completely different. When I buy tires for my street car, I get the cheapest Z rated tire I can from a good manufacturer (michelin, yok, pirelli, dunlop, etc.) they all perform similarly for me with the most noticable difference in noise and wet weather traction. When I buy a tire for the race car, it is because I need the best tire and then I set the car up specifically for that tire. In fact, the car won't work well with another tire unless I reset up the car.
For me, the wheels are no different. I really don't spend a lot of time thinking about whether or not the wheels have a rounded lip or a curve lip or whether or not a soft jaw socket will fit through the holes. The car to me is just a disposable item to me, it gets used, things break, things wear out, and eventually I'll sell the car. We've already established that the weights for the two wheels are virtually identical and OZ is a reputable manufacturer, making OEM wheels for Ferrari. They aren't going to bend or break like a ceramic plate when they hit a bump.
The reference I made to the centerlocking BBS wheels is that they are specific for my car, there aren't a lot of choices for centerlock. I would have liked to purchase the newer BBS aluminum wheels, however, they were cost prohibitive for me compared to the used magnesium wheels. The aluminum look similar, however, they are different. The spokes are machined out on the inside, but let me tell you, if I had purchased them, I wouldn't have given it much thought about not being the period correct wheel for the car. I just don't care enough.
Different peopel buy things for different reasons. If the original wheels are that important to you, then buy them. However, lets not mix fact with fiction, the MM wheels are a good alternative for some people and there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the wheels, like weight or construction. Your opinion may be that they look significantly different, but the facts are they look weigh, and perform similarly to the OEM wheels.
For me, the wheels are no different. I really don't spend a lot of time thinking about whether or not the wheels have a rounded lip or a curve lip or whether or not a soft jaw socket will fit through the holes. The car to me is just a disposable item to me, it gets used, things break, things wear out, and eventually I'll sell the car. We've already established that the weights for the two wheels are virtually identical and OZ is a reputable manufacturer, making OEM wheels for Ferrari. They aren't going to bend or break like a ceramic plate when they hit a bump.
The reference I made to the centerlocking BBS wheels is that they are specific for my car, there aren't a lot of choices for centerlock. I would have liked to purchase the newer BBS aluminum wheels, however, they were cost prohibitive for me compared to the used magnesium wheels. The aluminum look similar, however, they are different. The spokes are machined out on the inside, but let me tell you, if I had purchased them, I wouldn't have given it much thought about not being the period correct wheel for the car. I just don't care enough.
Different peopel buy things for different reasons. If the original wheels are that important to you, then buy them. However, lets not mix fact with fiction, the MM wheels are a good alternative for some people and there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the wheels, like weight or construction. Your opinion may be that they look significantly different, but the facts are they look weigh, and perform similarly to the OEM wheels.
11-08-2007, 12:37 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Can someone please tell me if the Tire Rack wheels (7.5x17 and 9x17) will rub the fenders if installed on a lowered car with H&R/Bilstien setup.
TX!
TX!
11-08-2007, 12:50 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
My car is lowered (H&R Red and Bilstein) to RS ride height (the lowest you'd really want a street car to be due to front geometry issues) and they DO NOT rub, even with 225 rather than 205s in the front. No spacers have been used.
10-15-2009, 03:19 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
ok so org. cupI:s have according to the thread "Offset on one side of the wheel and width on the other and have rounded edges" To be more specific because I'm looking at a pair I might buy.
Is the part number on the inside and offset on the outside and......... width...?? On Adrians guide I do not see width anywhere at least not on the outside.
The pair im looking at have both width and offset on the outside.. the guy claims they are genuine and I am in doubt...
Is the part number on the inside and offset on the outside and......... width...?? On Adrians guide I do not see width anywhere at least not on the outside.
The pair im looking at have both width and offset on the outside.. the guy claims they are genuine and I am in doubt...
10-15-2009, 03:38 PM
#37
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,384
Received 221 Likes
on
175 Posts
Felix - Original Cup1's will have the width and offset on the outside of the rim, near the valve stem. They will also have their respective Porsche part number on the inside of the wheel. The replicas will not have either. The Cup1 originals have a softer edge to the rim as compared to the replicas.
The bottom line is do you like the look of those wheels or not? Do you care about their authenticity?
The bottom line is do you like the look of those wheels or not? Do you care about their authenticity?
10-15-2009, 03:42 PM
#38
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,384
Received 221 Likes
on
175 Posts
Here's photos of the original wheels near the valve stems and the backs with the factory part numbers.
http://www.rsamerica.net/OEMinfo/wheels/index.htm
http://www.rsamerica.net/OEMinfo/wheels/index.htm
10-15-2009, 03:56 PM
#39
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Funny about how the aftermarket Cup Is are "ugly" 
I posted this picture of my old car several months ago. Half of the people couldn't tell which wheel was OEM and which was aftermarket. Let's play the game again:
I posted this picture of my old car several months ago. Half of the people couldn't tell which wheel was OEM and which was aftermarket. Let's play the game again:
10-15-2009, 04:02 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
can't tell from here. For me It is a price issue at the moment. Org. comes at a higher price here..
price on the rims are 1500 $ and I bought another pair 5 monhts ago.... bad cravings....
price on the rims are 1500 $ and I bought another pair 5 monhts ago.... bad cravings....
10-16-2009, 12:37 AM
#44
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, Tire Rack no longer carries Cup 1s...even some of the specialty US Porsche wheel places have a hard time stocking good used or refinished Cup 1s. But, UK based Porsche parts houses seem to have a ready supply of Cup 1s, but exchange rate and shipping to the US would probably kill that idea.
Bought mine on e-Bay a year ago...Italian replicas so I presume they are MMs.
Bought mine on e-Bay a year ago...Italian replicas so I presume they are MMs.
Last edited by DrewC2; 10-17-2009 at 01:50 AM.
