Dyno curve
#16
Race Car
Thread Starter
Ah yes, I remember hearing and reading about that car. Like the colour
If 9m and others know their stuff, I think without bigger injectors you are probably on the limit in that case as 300hp or so is deemed a rough limit for the standard ones......as far as I know, the pistons I used before the engine blew up were 3.8 Cup's and I purchased them through JZM....might be the same ones...?
If 9m and others know their stuff, I think without bigger injectors you are probably on the limit in that case as 300hp or so is deemed a rough limit for the standard ones......as far as I know, the pistons I used before the engine blew up were 3.8 Cup's and I purchased them through JZM....might be the same ones...?
#18
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#20
Race Car
Thread Starter
The main problem right now is that the battery has given up the ghost. I had a nice Bosch battery in there until the OPC in Denmark changed it (almost 1.5 years ago now) without my knowledge or consent. Imagine my surprise when the battery was dead early this week and I found a POS Porsche Lead-Acid item in there!!! In my experience, the original Porsche items are no good, especially when they have been completely drained...so tomorrow I will be getting another Bosch one...other than that, the de-mist function doesn't work on the car - in fact none of the fans want to blow unless the temp is set to 'blue dot' which makes it difficult to drive when it is cold and condensation occurs......so at the moment I am feeling like I have had it up to here with the whole thing
Colin, you have PM.
Colin, you have PM.
#21
Nordschleife Master
The main problem right now is that the battery has given up the ghost. I had a nice Bosch battery in there until the OPC in Denmark changed it (almost 1.5 years ago now) without my knowledge or consent. Imagine my surprise when the battery was dead early this week and I found a POS Porsche Lead-Acid item in there!!! In my experience, the original Porsche items are no good, especially when they have been completely drained...so tomorrow I will be getting another Bosch one...other than that, the de-mist function doesn't work on the car - in fact none of the fans want to blow unless the temp is set to 'blue dot' which makes it difficult to drive when it is cold and condensation occurs......so at the moment I am feeling like I have had it up to here with the whole thing
Colin, you have PM.
Colin, you have PM.
However I would advise not doing this if the car is parked out of view or if you have a noisy exhaust
#22
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hi Steve
The demist button is supposed to max the speed of all fans AND go to max heat.....mine works for a split second before it dies, the same as if I had the temp on blue dot and maxed the fan speed to 4....as soon as I turn the temp to anything other than blue dot, it dies......i am going to take a look today (first time for 2 weeks that I am home during day light...
The demist button is supposed to max the speed of all fans AND go to max heat.....mine works for a split second before it dies, the same as if I had the temp on blue dot and maxed the fan speed to 4....as soon as I turn the temp to anything other than blue dot, it dies......i am going to take a look today (first time for 2 weeks that I am home during day light...
#24
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Christer - does the heater work ok? If not, then your problem is probably the rear blower fuse or as Gary said above, that the rear blower is not plugged in.
#25
Race Car
Thread Starter
Yep, the heater works but it just kind of 'breathes' the warm air in....so I will take a look. I had a quick look yesterday and the cable is connected, but maybe its the resistorin the ducting as I think its kind of slightly intermittent which *should* rule out the fuse right? Where and how exactly do I get to the resistor in the ducting? Thanks!
#26
I think the resistor thingy they are talking about is just to the left of the distributor breather hose on the black pipe coming from the blower. Is a bit of a git to get to mind!
#27
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Turn the heater fan on full and temp on cold. The blower inside the car should be blowing at full speed. If when you turn the temp up to hot it stops then fuse or power lead. I don't think the resistor would actually stop the heater fan operating (I may be wrong though), but it instead detects the temp and turns the fan on if the engine gets too hot for extra cooling.
If the fuse has blown, the likely cause will be the bearings on the blower motor, and you'd eventually need to purchase a new blower.
If the fuse has blown, the likely cause will be the bearings on the blower motor, and you'd eventually need to purchase a new blower.
#29
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It's in the fuse box next to the rear blower in the engine bay. It's marked inside the lid which one. From memory is a 30amp. (I'm sure I read somehwere that is was lower on the older cars)
#30
Drifting
Correct, originally came in at 25A...
Another way of checking the relays etc aren't playing up is to swap the oil cooler relay for the fan one, as I know they can go south. don't touch the heater resister though Christer, it gets bloody hot......trust me.....
you can test things by jumpering out the resister, it's only to switch the fan from low to high speed, or you can jumper the relay base. I can't remember the numbers to jumper offhand, but there has been a thread or two with my input on it, I know I've been there once or twice.
Kevin
Another way of checking the relays etc aren't playing up is to swap the oil cooler relay for the fan one, as I know they can go south. don't touch the heater resister though Christer, it gets bloody hot......trust me.....
you can test things by jumpering out the resister, it's only to switch the fan from low to high speed, or you can jumper the relay base. I can't remember the numbers to jumper offhand, but there has been a thread or two with my input on it, I know I've been there once or twice.
Kevin