1990 964 C2 Bilstein/H&R How To.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
1990 964 C2 Bilstein/H&R How To.
I am going to attempt writing instructions on how to replace the shocks & springs on a 964. When I was getting ready to do mine, I searched Rennlist and found afew links that I printed out and had to cobble together to figure out how to do this correctly.
Just a note, my car is a 1990 C2 so I am not sure how things will be different on C4's or post 1990 964. But from what I have seen, as long as its a C2 964 this should be sufficient.
I will try to write this us as fast as possible since I see that a few of you are getting ready to do yours.
Most of these instructions are going to come from my recent experiance, but some others, I will be borrowing info from the other sources, and will give credit where it is due.
Well here it goes.
First advice:
Buy all the parts you need first before starting this job. By my calculations, it should have taken me about 8 - 10 hours, but I ran into a few snags. I did not have all the parts I needed and I had to wait a week to get them.
<<<<<<<<Following is a list from one of Jason Adreas posts.>>>>>>>
Items marked with an asterick have to be replaced. The rest can be reused but are probably a good idea to replace.
Front Shock Mounting Hardware
900-067-310-09 (4) Cheese Head screw M12 x 1.25 x 90 (camber adjustment)
999-025-212-09 (4) Washer 12.5 x 24 x 3
999-084-623-09 (4) *Locking Nut M12 x 1.25
900-076-025-02 (8) *Front Shock Upper Mount Lock Nut
900-025-007-02 (8) Washer
964-341-511-80 (2) *Gasket
------------------------------------
Plastic pieces for ABS
928-612-409-00 (2) Abs Ground Wire Clip
928-612-531-00 (1) Abs Interference Shield Connector (L)
928-612-531-01 (1) Abs Interference Shield Connector (R)
999-591-931-40 (2) Clip
------------------------------------
Rear Shock Mounting Hardware
900-082-102-08 (2) Bolt Hex Head M14 x 1.5 x 100
999-025-149-02 (2) Washer
900-380-006-02 (6) *Locking Flange Nut M8
999-025-125-09 (6) Washer 8.4 x 17 x 3.1
------------------------------------
000-043-004-00 (1) Optimoly HT - Lubricant.
I used some that contained Moly usually used for CV joints etc that I got from the auto parts store.
Following are some pics of the parts that I purchased.
Just a note, my car is a 1990 C2 so I am not sure how things will be different on C4's or post 1990 964. But from what I have seen, as long as its a C2 964 this should be sufficient.
I will try to write this us as fast as possible since I see that a few of you are getting ready to do yours.
Most of these instructions are going to come from my recent experiance, but some others, I will be borrowing info from the other sources, and will give credit where it is due.
Well here it goes.
First advice:
Buy all the parts you need first before starting this job. By my calculations, it should have taken me about 8 - 10 hours, but I ran into a few snags. I did not have all the parts I needed and I had to wait a week to get them.
<<<<<<<<Following is a list from one of Jason Adreas posts.>>>>>>>
Items marked with an asterick have to be replaced. The rest can be reused but are probably a good idea to replace.
Front Shock Mounting Hardware
900-067-310-09 (4) Cheese Head screw M12 x 1.25 x 90 (camber adjustment)
999-025-212-09 (4) Washer 12.5 x 24 x 3
999-084-623-09 (4) *Locking Nut M12 x 1.25
900-076-025-02 (8) *Front Shock Upper Mount Lock Nut
900-025-007-02 (8) Washer
964-341-511-80 (2) *Gasket
------------------------------------
Plastic pieces for ABS
928-612-409-00 (2) Abs Ground Wire Clip
928-612-531-00 (1) Abs Interference Shield Connector (L)
928-612-531-01 (1) Abs Interference Shield Connector (R)
999-591-931-40 (2) Clip
------------------------------------
Rear Shock Mounting Hardware
900-082-102-08 (2) Bolt Hex Head M14 x 1.5 x 100
999-025-149-02 (2) Washer
900-380-006-02 (6) *Locking Flange Nut M8
999-025-125-09 (6) Washer 8.4 x 17 x 3.1
------------------------------------
000-043-004-00 (1) Optimoly HT - Lubricant.
I used some that contained Moly usually used for CV joints etc that I got from the auto parts store.
Following are some pics of the parts that I purchased.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I chose to work on my front shocks and then the rear. For what it is worth, the fronts are a bit more time consuming and difficult compared to the rears. But neither are really that bad. This was my first attempt at a suspension modification, and if I can do it, so can you.
List of tools you will need: (I used InTheAirs 993 suspension guide to start with)
• 1/2” Ratchet, & Torque Wrench
• 3/8” Ratchet & Torque Wrench
• Ratchet extensions for both the 1/2" & 3/8" wrenches
• 10mm - 19 mm sockets
• 13mm - 19 mm wrenchs
• 7mm Allen Wrench
• 10mm Allen Socket (3/8” drive)
• 22mm Hazet® (or open sided) Socket (You need to make this or borrow one. I do not know where to get a proper Hazet®)
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Dremel® Tool with Cutting Disc
• Vise-Grip® Pliers
• Impact Gun (not necessary but it helps)
• Breaker Bar
• 4' to 5' long Pipe
Attached is a pic of a home made open sided socket I borrowed from a fellow Rennlister.
List of tools you will need: (I used InTheAirs 993 suspension guide to start with)
• 1/2” Ratchet, & Torque Wrench
• 3/8” Ratchet & Torque Wrench
• Ratchet extensions for both the 1/2" & 3/8" wrenches
• 10mm - 19 mm sockets
• 13mm - 19 mm wrenchs
• 7mm Allen Wrench
• 10mm Allen Socket (3/8” drive)
• 22mm Hazet® (or open sided) Socket (You need to make this or borrow one. I do not know where to get a proper Hazet®)
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Dremel® Tool with Cutting Disc
• Vise-Grip® Pliers
• Impact Gun (not necessary but it helps)
• Breaker Bar
• 4' to 5' long Pipe
Attached is a pic of a home made open sided socket I borrowed from a fellow Rennlister.
Last edited by ducnine; 08-12-2007 at 05:07 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Now you have tools and you have your new parts. Let's Begin.
FRONT
The following instructions are the same whether you do the right side or the front side. Also you can jack up one side of the car and complete that side and move on to the other or you can do like I did and jack up the front end of the car. Remove your wheels
Safety Note: Make sure you rest the car on jackstand.
Take a look at the front strut. It has three things attached to it towards the bottom.
1) Brake Sensor from the rear area of the strut
2) ABS Sensor
3) White clip with small wire.
In addition you need to remove the Brake pipe that is attached.
There is a clip you need to pull of with a pair of pliers or vice grip.
On my Shock there was already a groove cut in the strut bracket that holds the hose. Other wise you can either take apart the brake hose or cut a slit it the bracket to slide the hose out.
Fortunatley for me, mine had the groove cut in it and I just pulled the hose out.
FRONT
The following instructions are the same whether you do the right side or the front side. Also you can jack up one side of the car and complete that side and move on to the other or you can do like I did and jack up the front end of the car. Remove your wheels
Safety Note: Make sure you rest the car on jackstand.
Take a look at the front strut. It has three things attached to it towards the bottom.
1) Brake Sensor from the rear area of the strut
2) ABS Sensor
3) White clip with small wire.
In addition you need to remove the Brake pipe that is attached.
There is a clip you need to pull of with a pair of pliers or vice grip.
On my Shock there was already a groove cut in the strut bracket that holds the hose. Other wise you can either take apart the brake hose or cut a slit it the bracket to slide the hose out.
Fortunatley for me, mine had the groove cut in it and I just pulled the hose out.
#6
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Looks like Garrett's socket! Thanks for doing this.
BTW, you can buy a 22 mm hazet type socket for under $5 at Harbor Freight. They have two types, one that is ideal for changing the O2 sensor, and the other has a wider opening that is pretty good for the front shocks (22mm). I don't see it online though.
Tom
BTW, you can buy a 22 mm hazet type socket for under $5 at Harbor Freight. They have two types, one that is ideal for changing the O2 sensor, and the other has a wider opening that is pretty good for the front shocks (22mm). I don't see it online though.
Tom
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#8
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Originally Posted by ducnine
(I used InTheAirs 993 suspension guide to start with)
• 1/2” Ratchet, & Torque Wrench
• 3/8” Ratchet & Torque Wrench
• Ratchet extensions for both the 1/2" & 3/8" wrenches
• 10mm - 19 mm sockets
• 13mm - 19 mm wrenchs
• 7mm Allen Wrench
• 10mm Allen Socket (3/8” drive)
• 22mm Hazet® (or open sided) Socket (You need to make this or borrow one. I do not know where to get a proper Hazet®)
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Dremel® Tool with Cutting Disc
• Vise-Grip® Pliers
• Impact Gun (not necessary but it helps)
• Breaker Bar
• 4' to 5' long Pipe
• 1/2” Ratchet, & Torque Wrench
• 3/8” Ratchet & Torque Wrench
• Ratchet extensions for both the 1/2" & 3/8" wrenches
• 10mm - 19 mm sockets
• 13mm - 19 mm wrenchs
• 7mm Allen Wrench
• 10mm Allen Socket (3/8” drive)
• 22mm Hazet® (or open sided) Socket (You need to make this or borrow one. I do not know where to get a proper Hazet®)
• Flat Head Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Dremel® Tool with Cutting Disc
• Vise-Grip® Pliers
• Impact Gun (not necessary but it helps)
• Breaker Bar
• 4' to 5' long Pipe
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/258810-diy-suspension-install-for-dummies.html
Obviously, not all of it will be pertinent here.
Good luck all.
#11
IHI KING!
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I found a supplier of the Hazet sockets. Its Maryland Metric. They don't have prices posted on their web site, so I have asked for a quote on the socket and allen wrench. I will post the estimated costs when I get it.
http://mdmetric.com/prod/hazet/hazet.htm. The tools are listed in the "specialty automotive" section under suspensions.
Hazet 22mm socket for shock absorbers is part #2593-22
Hazet 7mm allen wrench for shock absorbers is part #2593-1
No affiliations.
EDIT: The socket is $46.85 and the allen wrench is $9.09
http://mdmetric.com/prod/hazet/hazet.htm. The tools are listed in the "specialty automotive" section under suspensions.
Hazet 22mm socket for shock absorbers is part #2593-22
Hazet 7mm allen wrench for shock absorbers is part #2593-1
No affiliations.
EDIT: The socket is $46.85 and the allen wrench is $9.09
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 08-16-2007 at 08:11 AM.
#12
IHI KING!
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Originally Posted by tgage
Looks like Garrett's socket! Thanks for doing this.
BTW, you can buy a 22 mm hazet type socket for under $5 at Harbor Freight. They have two types, one that is ideal for changing the O2 sensor, and the other has a wider opening that is pretty good for the front shocks (22mm). I don't see it online though.
Tom
BTW, you can buy a 22 mm hazet type socket for under $5 at Harbor Freight. They have two types, one that is ideal for changing the O2 sensor, and the other has a wider opening that is pretty good for the front shocks (22mm). I don't see it online though.
Tom
Is this it? Its a 7/8" socket for Oxygen sensors. I calculated it and 7/8" works out to be 22.25mm which may be close enough.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95045
#13
Rennlist Member
This is my big To-Do for the fall. Change stock springs and shocks. My car is a 1990C4? Does it differ much for a C4?
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Seems like if you use InTheAirs and Warmfuzzies instructions together, you will have all you need to do the shocks and springs on your C2. They have a lot of really good pics that are useful when doing this job.
Just some thoughts when I did mine.
Front Suspension
*It is best to loosen the 22 mm nut on top of the Fr Shocks while the old assembly is in the car using a Hazet-type socket. (You can also try the method I have shown in the first picture)
*Make sure you note where the painted dot is on the front shock hat. You need to put it back with the paint dot in the same location.
*If you are carefull removing the 22 mm nut from the top hat, you really do not need a spring compressor to remove the stock spring. I put the assembly on the floor, held one end with my foot, pointed the assembly away from anyone or thing and slowly removed the nut and the hat just popped up about an inch.
*I did not use the bump stop in the front with the new Bilsteins/H&R's. I could not figure out how it would fit.
Rear Suspension
*Compared the fronts, the rears are real easy to remove and replace.
*Only thing is that lower shock bolt was a monster to get loose. I used a 5 foot pipe around a long breaker bar. The car was jacked up as high as it could go and I just kept wrenching on it to get the 147lb/ft torqued lower bolt to let loose. You will hear some loud cracking sound but that should be ok. If you have a helper with you that is supporting the breaker bar and socket on the lower bolt, that would make life easier. I tried an Air Impact gun, but my compressor did not have enough oompf. I tried an electric one too and that too did not help. All I needed was a long lever and there she went.
*There was no way in heck to ge that bolt retorqued to 147lb/ft. When I took it in for alignment & corner balancing, I asked the mechanic to do it.
*The rear shocks also do not really need a spring compressor to remove the springs (if you are careful)
Good luck. This was a great learning experiance and the biggest job I have done to date on an automobile. Thanks Garrett for your socket.
Just some thoughts when I did mine.
Front Suspension
*It is best to loosen the 22 mm nut on top of the Fr Shocks while the old assembly is in the car using a Hazet-type socket. (You can also try the method I have shown in the first picture)
*Make sure you note where the painted dot is on the front shock hat. You need to put it back with the paint dot in the same location.
*If you are carefull removing the 22 mm nut from the top hat, you really do not need a spring compressor to remove the stock spring. I put the assembly on the floor, held one end with my foot, pointed the assembly away from anyone or thing and slowly removed the nut and the hat just popped up about an inch.
*I did not use the bump stop in the front with the new Bilsteins/H&R's. I could not figure out how it would fit.
Rear Suspension
*Compared the fronts, the rears are real easy to remove and replace.
*Only thing is that lower shock bolt was a monster to get loose. I used a 5 foot pipe around a long breaker bar. The car was jacked up as high as it could go and I just kept wrenching on it to get the 147lb/ft torqued lower bolt to let loose. You will hear some loud cracking sound but that should be ok. If you have a helper with you that is supporting the breaker bar and socket on the lower bolt, that would make life easier. I tried an Air Impact gun, but my compressor did not have enough oompf. I tried an electric one too and that too did not help. All I needed was a long lever and there she went.
*There was no way in heck to ge that bolt retorqued to 147lb/ft. When I took it in for alignment & corner balancing, I asked the mechanic to do it.
*The rear shocks also do not really need a spring compressor to remove the springs (if you are careful)
Good luck. This was a great learning experiance and the biggest job I have done to date on an automobile. Thanks Garrett for your socket.
Last edited by ducnine; 08-15-2007 at 09:53 PM.
#15
Rennlist Member
"*Make sure you not where the painted dot is on the front shock hat. You need to put it back with the paint dot in the same location."
What is the significance of the position of the painted dot?
What is the significance of the position of the painted dot?