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Just cleaned ISV and now car won't idle

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Old 06-25-2007, 02:09 PM
  #16  
hawk911
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anyone close by that can swap with you for a quick test before you pop $200+ for a new one? and if you do go new, try Sunset Imports. I've been happy with their prices. (no affiliation, blah blah)
Old 06-25-2007, 03:10 PM
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CraigC
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+1 on Sunset, great prices and service.
Old 06-25-2007, 03:21 PM
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TR6
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Originally Posted by CraigC
+1 on Sunset, great prices and service.
I just tried to order it from Sunset but they don't have it in stock and estimated 3-4 weeks! They did have the best price ($224) but I can't wait that long. I ordered from Troy at EBS for $255. He had it in stock and its on its way. Maybe once I have the new one installed, I'll disassemble the old one to see what makes these things tick.

BTW, thanks for suggesting that I clean out my ISV.
Old 06-25-2007, 05:28 PM
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Steven C.
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Originally Posted by TR6
BTW, thanks for suggesting that I clean out my ISV.
You're welcome....I think And if this fixes the stalling you can thank us again...for real this time

ps: Also don't let me forget to take the SCREWDRIVERS away from you next time we are together
Old 06-25-2007, 05:33 PM
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Manny Alban
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Greg, I thought the same thing....the one time I decide to work on my car and do some preventative maintenance, I screw it up. Needless to say, my mechanic thought it was funny.
Old 06-25-2007, 05:35 PM
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TR6
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Originally Posted by Steven C.
ps: Also don't let me forget to take the SCREWDRIVERS away from you next time we are together
Yeah, next time I'll try a hammer and a blowtorch instead! That'll really get those dirty deposits out of the ISV!
Originally Posted by Manny Alban
Greg, I thought the same thing....the one time I decide to work on my car and do some preventative maintenance, I screw it up. Needless to say, my mechanic thought it was funny.
Yeah, my wife thought it was amusing too. When I came back in the house after a while in the garage cussing, she reminded me that I told her earlier that it was a simple 15 minute procedure that would make the car run better...
Old 06-25-2007, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TR6
Yeah, next time I'll try a hammer and a blowtorch instead! That'll really get those dirty deposits out of the ISV!
Old 06-25-2007, 05:41 PM
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Steven C.
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Originally Posted by TR6
Yeah, my wife thought it was amusing too. When I came back in the house after a while in the garage cussing, she reminded me that I told her earlier that it was a simple 15 minute procedure that would make the car run better...
Well, I guess you showed her how to turn it into a 4 day job that will make it run even better
Old 06-25-2007, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TR6
Yeah, my wife thought it was amusing too. When I came back in the house after a while in the garage cussing, she reminded me that I told her earlier that it was a simple 15 minute procedure that would make the car run better...
Usually she looks at me and ask: so what did you break this time? How much to fix what you just "fixed"?
At that point on I just go for the beer and burp close to her... She walks away and we call it even.
Old 06-26-2007, 06:02 AM
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ttAmerica RoadsterAWD
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Wow, what a mess...but I'm glad you got it figured out....

All Kidding aside, so, what happened? Did you somehow force the movement of the inner valve? What did you do or what can you tell us not to do when cleaning our valves? Some guys have good results cleaning the ISV, but for those of us that have not and want to clean it would like to know what not to do, so can you help us out in this respect??

thanks in advance
Old 06-26-2007, 08:00 AM
  #26  
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The ISV is basically a "semi rotary, open/close" valve, ony the valve does not fully close, there is always 7-9mm gap.
On ignition, the ISV is closed.
When running the ISV remains closed until the idle micro switch is activated, it signals the DME that in turn supplies 12 v power to the ISV, this opens the valve (the valve is held open by 12 v power against a spring)
On "shut down", power is removed and the valve closes by spring pressure.
As mentioned the ISV is a semi rotary valve having less than 100 degree movement, cleaning with WD40 or similar, to remove grit and grease should be applied at the same time as applying 12v to the connectors, the valve will cycle "open /closed" with connection/disconnection of the power supply.
and the cleaning will be completed.
There are NO servicable part inside, if, on application of 12v to the terminals the valve does not move, replace it.
Hope it helps.
Charlie
Old 06-26-2007, 09:25 AM
  #27  
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Actually, the valve over-closes. That is, the shutter closes a bit past the opening so that if you attempt to move the shutter you need to move it in the direction that will completely close the opening and then further to open all of the way.
Old 06-26-2007, 10:39 AM
  #28  
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Greg H.

Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
Old 06-26-2007, 11:33 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RicardoD
Greg H.

Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
As soon as I have the new ISV and install it (this coming weekend), I'll report back. But I think its safe to say that just cleaning the ISV with solvent or WD40 will not damage it (from everything I've been told). I think what happened to mine was the shutter wasn't moving as freely or in the range that I thought it should be and I stuck a screwdriver in there to try to force it (first trying to make it move the wrong direction!). The only other thing I did was to connect a 12v battery booster pack to it to test it while it was out of the car. Don't know if perhaps that fried something in it, but I doubt it. Booster pack puts out the same 12v as a car battery.

I suspect that if I'd just sprayed it out with solvent, it would have been fine. My downfall is that I can't resist tinkering with mechanisms to find out how they work. When I remove the old one this weekend to swap it, I'll take a closer look at it and try to get some detailed photos.
Old 06-26-2007, 11:37 AM
  #30  
Manny Alban
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With mine, it was just cleaning it that seemed to break something loose or clog it. Funny, but I wasn't having idle issues, rather that the car would hesitate under full throttle on the track. Afterwards, when I told my mechanic, he pinpointed it immediately. A faulty relay. Sure enough, we swapped relays and at the next track event, no more hesitation.


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