Just cleaned ISV and now car won't idle
#16
anyone close by that can swap with you for a quick test before you pop $200+ for a new one? and if you do go new, try Sunset Imports. I've been happy with their prices. (no affiliation, blah blah)
#18
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Originally Posted by CraigC
+1 on Sunset, great prices and service.
BTW, thanks for suggesting that I clean out my ISV.
#19
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Originally Posted by TR6
BTW, thanks for suggesting that I clean out my ISV.
ps: Also don't let me forget to take the SCREWDRIVERS away from you next time we are together
#20
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Greg, I thought the same thing....the one time I decide to work on my car and do some preventative maintenance, I screw it up. Needless to say, my mechanic thought it was funny.
#21
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Originally Posted by Steven C.
ps: Also don't let me forget to take the SCREWDRIVERS away from you next time we are together
Originally Posted by Manny Alban
Greg, I thought the same thing....the one time I decide to work on my car and do some preventative maintenance, I screw it up. Needless to say, my mechanic thought it was funny.
#23
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Originally Posted by TR6
Yeah, my wife thought it was amusing too. When I came back in the house after a while in the garage cussing, she reminded me that I told her earlier that it was a simple 15 minute procedure that would make the car run better...
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Originally Posted by TR6
Yeah, my wife thought it was amusing too. When I came back in the house after a while in the garage cussing, she reminded me that I told her earlier that it was a simple 15 minute procedure that would make the car run better...
At that point on I just go for the beer and burp close to her... She walks away and we call it even.
#25
Three Wheelin'
Wow, what a mess...but I'm glad you got it figured out....
All Kidding aside, so, what happened? Did you somehow force the movement of the inner valve? What did you do or what can you tell us not to do when cleaning our valves? Some guys have good results cleaning the ISV, but for those of us that have not and want to clean it would like to know what not to do, so can you help us out in this respect??
thanks in advance
All Kidding aside, so, what happened? Did you somehow force the movement of the inner valve? What did you do or what can you tell us not to do when cleaning our valves? Some guys have good results cleaning the ISV, but for those of us that have not and want to clean it would like to know what not to do, so can you help us out in this respect??
thanks in advance
#26
The ISV is basically a "semi rotary, open/close" valve, ony the valve does not fully close, there is always 7-9mm gap.
On ignition, the ISV is closed.
When running the ISV remains closed until the idle micro switch is activated, it signals the DME that in turn supplies 12 v power to the ISV, this opens the valve (the valve is held open by 12 v power against a spring)
On "shut down", power is removed and the valve closes by spring pressure.
As mentioned the ISV is a semi rotary valve having less than 100 degree movement, cleaning with WD40 or similar, to remove grit and grease should be applied at the same time as applying 12v to the connectors, the valve will cycle "open /closed" with connection/disconnection of the power supply.
and the cleaning will be completed.
There are NO servicable part inside, if, on application of 12v to the terminals the valve does not move, replace it.
Hope it helps.
Charlie
On ignition, the ISV is closed.
When running the ISV remains closed until the idle micro switch is activated, it signals the DME that in turn supplies 12 v power to the ISV, this opens the valve (the valve is held open by 12 v power against a spring)
On "shut down", power is removed and the valve closes by spring pressure.
As mentioned the ISV is a semi rotary valve having less than 100 degree movement, cleaning with WD40 or similar, to remove grit and grease should be applied at the same time as applying 12v to the connectors, the valve will cycle "open /closed" with connection/disconnection of the power supply.
and the cleaning will be completed.
There are NO servicable part inside, if, on application of 12v to the terminals the valve does not move, replace it.
Hope it helps.
Charlie
#27
Actually, the valve over-closes. That is, the shutter closes a bit past the opening so that if you attempt to move the shutter you need to move it in the direction that will completely close the opening and then further to open all of the way.
#28
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Greg H.
Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
#29
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Originally Posted by RicardoD
Greg H.
Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
Yes, please, we need an autopsy of the dead ISV. This was on my to-do list but your experience has freaked me out! Better leave mine alone unless I know you jammed a screwdriver in there or something.
I suspect that if I'd just sprayed it out with solvent, it would have been fine. My downfall is that I can't resist tinkering with mechanisms to find out how they work. When I remove the old one this weekend to swap it, I'll take a closer look at it and try to get some detailed photos.
#30
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With mine, it was just cleaning it that seemed to break something loose or clog it. Funny, but I wasn't having idle issues, rather that the car would hesitate under full throttle on the track. Afterwards, when I told my mechanic, he pinpointed it immediately. A faulty relay. Sure enough, we swapped relays and at the next track event, no more hesitation.