Cupcar

It appears to me as though the oval bushing raises the shifter, so if installation is done by dimpling the belly pan the advantage of the taller shifter is lost....so doing the job right has a lot of advantages.

Fast4525

My taste for most of the above is quite expensive which is why I might forego the 993 rod and joint

Can the bushings in the 964 joint be refreshed inexpensively to make it as good as new?

ltc

I'll bet the Carrera GT center lock wheel hub in your avatar costs more ;-)

mjshira

does anyone have the 993 RS guide rod part number?

Cupcar

964.424.020.35 is the 993 RS shift rod with the metal to metal universal joint.

RW964

Here are a few questions for you starting with this comment.

"The disadvantage of the RS shifter is an 18% greater force requirement to perform a shift. "

I was wondering about what others have found on this and what brand of short shift kit you have installed. I am in the market for one now and wanted to know just how much of a diff this makes ... Thanks Randy

HiWind

Great thread guys thanks - all the part numbers are right and I have them in front of me now.
Just with regard to the references to "dimpling" and "belly pan" - I need to cut as mine is a 90 and has the round (not oblong) bearing sleeves - where are you talking about?

Can it be seen in this pic ie what shouldnt be dimpled, and for that matter what is dimpling?

thanks in advance!
Matt

Cupcar

The diagram above is of a 4 wheel drive car. Short shifts only work in a 2 wheel drive car, maybe see below.

The oval nylon bearing is shown below between the two gold bolt threads projecting from the side of the tunnel. What you see is an oily top portion and a relatively clean lower portion of the oval. This particular oval is installed in a car with a short shift and thus has the shift rod at the top of it in the oily section.

Nomally, the oval would be flipped the other way in a regular shift car and if not rotated for a short shifter the bottom of the shift lever will hit the removable under tray down the center of the car (the black sheet metal piece the rubber boot is sitting on). Some people have solved this the wrong way by hammering a "dimple" in the sheet metal rather than turning the oval the correct way.

Thinking about it, I guess one could install the short shift in a 4 wheel drive car, but then there is no nylon oval to flip and thus the under tray would have to be "dimpled"

crg53

HERE is another thread with more pictures.

HiWind

thanks Senor Cup! Yes mine's a C2. So the dimple would be in the horizontal plate below the shifter, but i dont need to worry about that because I'm going to flip the oblong sleeve - thanks.

ALso mucho gracias Steen - I was looking for that/your thread as I know I'd seen a pic of the holes needed for a pre92 C2 being cut in my first few visits
- search didn't get me there tho thats perfect!

HiWind

ok well the RS OEM shifter is in ... feels good (not 100% used to it yet and still feels sloppy next to the 996cup metalic crisp-ness)
but today I could feel it better and liking it. My view: The biggest 'impression' is one of better height (closeness to wheel)
... but not really shortness of throw. Its like 70-30 height-shortness.

A few pics and a few points to note:
1. you need a vice - to get the ball joint cup (yes it can be sourced by itself - 928 part number ... SIYF!)
and to get the rod back onto the ball once the 2 cups are fitted (or use a jack off the floor with a piece of wood to
transmit the jacks incremental force
and slowly crank the ball joint home. 2 cups - one at front; other on shifter's base itself.
2. see the parts pic below and get all the stuff mentioned above in other post ... but also
order all the little plastic white sleeves (2) and cir-clips, washers and rubber bits - cost very little and make for a crisper,
new finish (as me how I know; its what you want)**.
3. make sure you have a proper hole saw bit - 25 mm as mentioned above or in DIY thread - I chewed thru 2 mediocre
ones and it took the most of the time of any task.
4. took 3.5 hrs but 45 min just to cut the holes and then 20 min to dremel them smooth/straight
rest is easy ex the cup/balljoint but that's explained elsewhere and is easy but care needed
5. also remove any of the rubber undercoat where you need to cut and near by it as it can start to smoulder and fumes
are noxious.. Also these can go into car via shifter space so cover that from inside (also might be sparks re the holesaw)


** The key bits are the plastic white sleeves and cir-clips - they both are fragile so replace for sure!
Actually think the sleeves could be metal, no? Designed to fail ( after 20 yrs?) or is there a reason (give) thats they're plastic??

pics:
1. my roadside fix for the crumbled ball joint cup from 2-3 months back - lasted 2k kms and grease was still inside, ties fine
2,3. the updated post 90 oblong sleeves in place on both sides post cutting. Covered all the exposed metal and removed rubber with silicone.
4. pic off the turbo forum but look right. The little cheap extras you need are 6,7,8,9,10 (as many as there are shown for each in the pic).
The white plastic cup (shd be a rose-joint ala various kits - will do that next!) goes into the metal cup at each end of the rod
as shown in part 15 and 16 (928 part as mentioned).

Hope that helps and please let me know if you've used metal instead of plastic for the 6's, or why you shdnt? Thanks!
Matt

Cupcar

The forward bearing can be easily changed by modifying the cross bracket (or making a new one) and using a 10 mm rod end.

HiWind

And the middle one becomes the rose joint?

Cupcar

The one under the shifter I left alone.

The adjustment at the front positions the shifter fore and aft in the car relative to the driver.