wsybert

You will need the following:
* A large oil catch pan. At least 12 qts. (I used 2, a small one for the engine and a larger one for the oil tank.)
* A lot of rags.
* 15mm wrench
* Oil Filter
* 2 oil plug crush washers.
* Latex gloves (optional, if you like oil on your hands, because you may have to go fishing for your plugs or washers in the oil... ask my how I know.)

You will need to drive the car until fully warmed up.
This will open the thermostats for the oil cooler, and allow most of the oil to drain from the system.

Place the large oil pan under the oil tank. It is just in front of the right rear tire, about the middle of the shark fin and underneath. (See pictures).

If you are using the type of oil pan with the small hole in the middle of it, open the vent on the oil pan, and try to align the drain hole in the pan with the plug. It will limit the amount of splashing, as the oil will go straight into the pan first.

There are two ways to get most of the oil out of the filter and filter housing.
1) Punch a hole in the top of the filter with a screwdriver. (Sounds bad, but it works well)

OR

2) Loosen the vent on the backside of the oil filter housing (see pictures). I think it is 17mm, but I did not use this option. It is located up and behind the right rear tire, in the fender well.

One of these options will allow you to get most of the oil out of the oil filter and housing, by releasing any vacuum and allowing it to flow to the tank.

NOTE: If you use option one, you can tape up the hole when you are done draining the tank, so when you unscrew the filter it won't cause a mess.

Open the oil fill cap, as it will let air into the system to help drain.

Next, loosen the oil tank plug. It's 15mm.
There will be A LOT OF OIL coming out of the tank. So be prepared.
I put my oil pan on a towel to limit the splashing on my floor.
I am guessing there is about 8-9 qts in the tank.

NOTE: The oil is going to be HOT! So be careful. The latex gloves give you a little insulation, so it's wise to wear them.

NOTE: I had to jack up the right front a little to get my pan under the plug, and get a wrench on it. My car is lowered.

Next, you can drain the engine.
The engine oil drain plug is located on the left lower part of the engine. (See pictures)

It is the same size as the oil tank plug, 15mm. Unscrew the engine oil plug and drain the oil. Will be about 2-3 qts.

After both plugs are out, I let it drain for about ½ hour.

Now it's time to put the plugs back. I did not use new crush washers, and there are no leaks. Your choice. (I just forgot to order them.)
Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs).

NOTE: Both plugs have magnetic inserts to help in capturing metallic parts that are in the oil. I cleaned my plugs with carb cleaner to get any metallic particles off of the magnets.

Tape up the hole in the filter if you used that option, or tighten the vent back.
Unscrew the oil filter. I was able to unscrew mine by hand. You will want to place a rag under the filter to stop any oil from running down the inside of the engine compartment.

Apply a light coat of new oil to the new filter seal and screw it onto the housing. I tightened mine by hand as tight as I could get it.

NOTE: Make sure the filter housing has no seal on it. I have read and heard of the seal from the old filter sticking to the filter housing and you end up doubling up on the seals with a potential for disaster.

Now add your oil.

Oil filler cap is next to the filter, on the right side of the engine compartment. (See pictures)

Add 7 quarts of oil and then start the car.

This is a key part. You will not harm you car by adding only 7 quarts. If you try to add more, there is a good change you will overfill.

I let it idle for several minutes and then started adding ½ quart at a time, until the oil level gage began to move. Then added enough to bring the gage to the halfway point.
The car will need to be on level ground and fully warm at an idle.

I ended up putting in 11 quarts exactly.

Marc,
Thanks for the suggestions and additional info.

Anything anyone wants to add or any questions, let me know.

Bill

Marc Shaw

Well done and thank you!

A couple of suggestions:

1. Yes, running the car will allow the thermostat to the front cooler to open so that oil can be drained too.

2. No, you don't have to remove the undertray.

3. I'd suggest removing the oil filler cap when draining the oil to help if flow out by letting air in.

4. Oil plug to crankcase torque is 51 ft.lbs....I'm still looking for the oil tank torque.

Marc

CraigC

Nicely done write up!

JasonAndreas

The crankcase and thermostat housing drain plug are only torqued to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs). There was a TSB on 11/08/94 that corrected the workshop manuals.

wsybert

Marc / Jason,
I added your information.
Thanks!

gfunk

Bill,

Nice writeup. One question I have is where did you punch the hole in the filter? I just changed mine the other day and I punched a hole in the side near the end but when I removed the filter I still get lots of oil draining out of the center of the filter flange. I am assuming this must be due to the built in check valve in the filter. I guess it's not clear to me how punching a hole anywhere in the filter gets around this problem.

Greg

D_Schultz

Just a tip, but I loosen the filter until it is just hand tight. At this point I put a plastic bag with a couple of paper towels over the filter & unscrew it quickly. Generally don't spill more than a couple drops of oil that way.

stevepaa

I use a little shop air into the filter hole and blow out the oil down to thermostat and into a collection pan quite nicely.

Indycam

Just did an oil change yesterday .
Lined the drain pan with a big plastic bag .
Gathered up the top of the bag , twist tied it , took the drain pan and plastic bag to the auto parts store.
When the oil inside the bag was recycled , I ended up with a clean drain pan .

wsybert
Did you cut open the filter and have a look see ?
Did you send in a sample of oil ?
I no longer punch holes in filters , I think its a bad idea .

MassGuy

I just finished doing mine and it was a piece of cake. Reading this thread before I did it was a huge help. I removed the udertray and I do not think I am going to put it back on for a while. Its an option I will keep open.

I added 15w50 Mobil1 extended performane. A little thick but we are just coming into the warmer months and my next change will be late fall.

This task made my day, seeing as I have only owned the car 3 months and I feel my maintainence is up to par. I can ride like I want to now!

A fresh start......

I love this forum and all the help you guys offer......lets keep it going!

Brian

wsybert

I punched a hole in the filter on the outer circumference, near the end.
I did still get some oil from the housing. Not sure if it would be the same amount without the hole.

Indycam,
I did not cut the filter open... not a bad idea though to see what the filter element looks like.
I did not get an oil sample. I will probably do so on the next change. This oil was in the car when I bought it, so I am not sure of the mileage on it.
Also, not sure why it is a bad idea to punch a hole in the filter, aside from the fact it seems a bit caveman like.

964rh

Just about to have a go at doing an oil change, thanks for posting the DIY

Have you got the part numbers for the drain plug washers? or did you re-use the original ones?

Rob

deep_uv

Rob, the drain plug crush washers are part number 900-123-118-30.

Regards,

Steve

wsybert

I did reuse my crush washers.