wsybert

I love this site... used it as a reference and everything turned out perfect.
Drained the oil from the engine then the oil tank.
Oil coming out of the tank, comes out FAST! Be prepared and have an oil catch that will take oil as if you were dumping it out of a bucket.
Removing the filter was a little messy, but not too bad.
Took 11 qts. exactly, to get the gauge in the middle.

A little longer than I expected, but then again I never had to change oil in a car that had 11 qts. and two drains.

Added 7 qts. after the drain, started it, then kept adding a half a quart until the gauge came up.

Ended up using Mobile 1 10w30. I already had a case, so I picked up another.

Thanks for all who post DIY's to this site!

BTW...I would swear that is runs better. Kind of like when you wash it, after it has been dirty for a while.

Bill

Smokin

Bill... Unless you live in the Arctic... I believe that 10W30 is too thin. I think you should be using 15W50 or 10W50. I'm sure others will chime in.

R6XTERRA

I use to use 5W50 till Mobile 1 took it off the shelf. 10W50 is the way to go. Only synthetic.

Jeff

D_Schultz

I'd say 10W30 is fine, though I prefer the 0W40.

Here's a great link to a detailed discussion of the benefits of a thinner oil & the myths surrounding thicker ones:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...hlight=oil+101

skruggs964

5W50 is the way to go.....

IMHO....

Smokin

I didn't read the whole linked thread word for word but it looks like the basic thread discussion is about water cooled engines... Not air cooled engines. I run Mobil 1, 10W30 in my Hummer but 15W50 in my 911.

skruggs964

Loblaw's SuperCentre or SuperStore still has it on their shelves....at least they did a few weeks ago...

Indycam

"First oil change, pretty easy."
If it was pretty easy , you musta done it wrong .
I've never had a car or anything else that is such a pita to just change oil on .
I've changed oil in a boat diesel , down in the bilge , that was nowhere near such a total royal pita .

Bearclaw

After many years of loyal use, I'm afraid Mobil 1 has lost me as a customer. There have been many VOA's done by several sources, that indicate Mobil 1 (at least the 10W-30) ain't what it used to be. It seems to be comprised of basically Group III basestocks now, where previously it was mainly Group IV. I tend to get pissed when I'm not getting what I believe I'm paying for.

These engines need healthy amounts of zinc and phosphorus. This was reiterated in an article by the tech guru in our local PCA chapter. I used Valvoline full synthetic 20W-50 at my last change, but am leaning toward Redline 10W-40 on this one. I use Redine in everything I own except the 0W-30 Amsoil I use in my daughter's Honda, because the VTEC's are water-pumpers that rely on the oil for cooling a lot more than other engines. I've talked to Redline and I really like their formulations. Spendy for the P-car, but I only change oil once a year in it, so what the heck.

As far as weight, I'd love to go light per Porche's latest recommendations, but something holds me back. Loren posted a link to his site in a thread on the 993 forum addressing the "why" of so many seemingly premature 993 top-end rebuilds. I hope he doesn't mind me cutting-and-pasting. Aside from the bits that aren't applicable to a 964, several points are interesting, as is No.6 :

Each 993 owner must assess his own driving and maintenance habits. Without more data, the only answer we have is based
on how we would drive and maintain a 993 if we owned one:

1. We'd change the oil & filter at 7500 miles (Porsche's 930 oil service), e.g. for better ring & valve guide life.
2. We'd probably remove the lower body pan if we did a lot of stop and go driving in hot weather.
3. We'd TRY and avoid using the A/C in stop and go hot weather, as this heats the engine more.
4. We'd minimize that constant revving above 5K, i.e. high revving will NOT reduce the SAI problem but likely increase it.
Note: High speed driving, e.g. freeway driving, versus "stop & go" driving does NOT reduce the likelihood of SAI problems.
5. We'd monitor our oil consumption. Greater than 1.5K to 2K miles per quart would not indicate excessive oil burning.
If the secondary air problem does occur, then it's NOT a valve guide problem but only an inherent air injection
design problem or a failed part within the secondary air injection system
6. We'd use the heaviest weight synthetic oil (equiv. to 20/50 in a standard oil).
7. Doing a compression test or a leakdown test will provide no indication of valve guide wear..
8. If a valve job is required, We'd assure that good referrals are used to select a dealer or independent shop.
9. We'd avoid (or further research) shops which claim to have a "quick fix" for cleaning the secondary air passage,
as the passage is very inaccessible. These fixes will only be short term, given excessive oil consumption.
10. As part of a pre-purchase inspection, the use of a scanner to check the readiness states and real time data is advised.
Also, using a Porsche tester, e.g. PST2, to run the secondary air "Short Test" will determine the effectiveness of the SAI system.

Systems Consulting
Automotive Electronics

You could argue about whether lighter weight helps the heat buildup situation, along with faster circulation on cold starts (good), or fails to provide enough protection in high heat situations (bad) - and people do argue about these things all day and night on the oil forums. So I figure the 10W-40 seems like a good balance - and it works for most all my other vehicles.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Excellent! There's quite a bit you can DIY with your car. Did you check the DIY section??

Marc Shaw

Hey - next time take a few pictures along the way and post it to the DIY section.

I don't think we have an oil change DIY yet (or a brake pad change).....

Marc

Smokin

Marc... I'm due to change mine in the next week or two. I'll snap some pics and do a DIY...

wsybert

I did a search on "Oil Change Procedure" and found THIS See the 3rd post.

I would be happy to put a DIY together with some pics.

On the 10W-30 note...

After a little research, looks like the Mobile 1 15W-50 has additional anti-wear additives. Plus the higher viscosity would probably be better for an engine with wear, not to mention better for higher temperatures.
With this info in hand, I will probably do the next one with 15W-50.

I would agree it's not as easy as changing the oil in a normal wet sump car with 5 qts of oil. But it was fairly easy to get to everything, and if you follow the post I linked above, it's pretty straightforward.
And, I did do it right.

aeroman

I would appreciate it. The guys with the white cars don't like it cause we faster.

Marc Shaw

You got that right.

Thanks to everone who contributes the the DIY section - it benefits us all.

Marc