MarkD

Cool flow chart. Not plastic, a bit of rubber. See my edit above.

Anyhow, the 15mm spec is what Jason Andreas said also, however, my new vs old returned in the same manner. Neither came all the way back to original position. Just short of it.
Yet, my old flywheel caused a nasty vibration. There was no noise except on startup very briefly. I actually didn't know the noise was flywheel related until after I replaced it.

The old flywheel was slightly "sloppier" front to back, if that makes sense. I would guess that was the vibration source.

EDIT (again): OK, no rubber! lol... I just checked out the old one and scraped off what looked and felt like rubber... is was built up clutch material and probably a little oil. I had poked it with a small screwdriver before and it felt and looked like a thin rubber ring
It was right in the area where the two masses meet, just outside of the flywheel bolts.

TR6

Don't know for sure. The car has 140K total on it, but it had a new factory replacement engine that has about 50K on it. What I don't know is whether the flywheel came along new with the replacement engine or if it is original (140K) to the car. Best case scenario has it at about 50K miles and the worst case scenario has it at 140K.

JW in Texas

Greg,
It's the flywheel from my car so it had about 45k on it when it went in your car.

J richard

Greg,

I have a Luk dual mass with approximately 30K on it, it came out of my car ad it was upgraded to the LWF when the clutch finally started to go. Drop me a pm if your interested, it's just taking up floorspace in the garage.

Jim

JasonAndreas

The Freudenberg's can be easily dismantled but the LUKs aren't so easy because of the rivets. If you drill those out it should come apart. I started to but just never got around to finishing.

MarkD

Well, that sounds like fun. I will post pics.

TR6

After doing a bunch of research and getting some great input from you guys and a few others, and having the opportunity to test drive two cars with a LWF (one street car, one track car), I've decided to go with the RS LWF and RS Clutch kit. It will be more expense (although not a lot more) than going DMF but hopefully, it will be worth it. I opted not to go with the Fidanza LWF although I have no evidence either way on their flywheels. They may be fine, but the RS kit is all inclusive with no question of fitment. I'll update once its installed to let you know how it works out. I'm sure I'll need to clean out my ISV since I've never done that before and I'm told that is critical to a stable idle with a LWF.

Thanks again for all of the valuable input and offers of help.

BostonU

TR6,
You made a great choice. You will love the RS LWF and clutch. I made the same decision and decided to go with the RS parts. Keep us posted.

fore!

Greg,

Are you back on the road? How did the RS LWF work out?

I'm thinking of LWD too. I spoke with my wrench and he suggested getting the Andial unit, adding weight to it... Total cost out the door including all labor = $4k

For some reason I think his F/W is 17lbs vs orig 25lb and RS 11lb(?)...

TR6

Yes, its back on the road with the new RS light weight flywheel and clutch kit from ViperBob (thanks, Bob!). Coincidentally, I took it out and put a few miles on it yesterday for the first time since I got it back from the mechanic (the weather was crap for a solid week). Its running very well, no stalling issues at all and I haven't modified my driving technique at all for it. If I push in the clutch and let off the throttle from 3000 rpms, it doesn't stall. Granted, I haven't had the opportunity to drive it in the heat of the summer in traffic yet, but I did turn on the air conditioning and lights to try to load it up some. The worst it did was to drop down to perhaps a little below 500 rpms before rebounding to normal idle. I haven't stalled it at all taking off from a stop, even on a hill. I'm told that this flywheel weighs about 14 pounds.

The clutch definitely engages much more quickly and firmly than it did before. This may be just the nature of the RS flywheel and clutch, but it engages much sooner as you release the pedal. In other words, the pedal comes up a little from the floor and the clutch engages. With the previous DMF setup, the pedal came up higher before engaging. This takes a little getting used to and you have to push the pedal completely to the floor when shifting or it will let you know. Not sure if that can be adjusted or not.

I do notice a little more noise transmitted through the transmission, but nothing too loud or annoying. Honestly, if the car had always sounded that way since I bought it, I would have thought nothing of it. My Triumph TR6 with a solid flywheel does the same thing and always has.

In terms of performance increase, I can't yet say anything definitive and really need more seat time in it to get a better perception. The butt dyno tells me that it gets off the line and through first gear a little quicker from a standstill, but I have no measurable proof of that. I would guess there is a very modest improvement in the 0-60 time, but again, I have no data.

ps. ViperBob was a great resource for the RS LWF & clutch kit and his price was very competitive. No financial interest, just wanted to pass that along if it helps anyone looking for for a source for the RS LWF setup.