Replacing clutch and flywheel: seeking input on components
#16
Nordschleife Master
"from Andial, I highly recommend the "mid weight" flywheel they sell."
That would be the 89 flywheel ?
If it is , why buy it from a big buck place ?
The 89 was the 1st and the best , the original design .
http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?...E&carmodel=911
Centerforce spring center 89
http://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-DF.../dp/B000FKH9U4
That would be the 89 flywheel ?
If it is , why buy it from a big buck place ?
The 89 was the 1st and the best , the original design .
http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?...E&carmodel=911
Centerforce spring center 89
http://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-DF.../dp/B000FKH9U4
#18
Three Wheelin'
The dualmass flywheel from a 993TT or 996TT will more than handle the power you are outputting with a supercharger.
#19
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Eric Kessel
The Andial "Mid Weight Flywheel" is a bit confusing. They add weight to a LWF. I don't know if it is the same as the 89.
#20
Rennlist Member
LWF
Greg,
I think as you can tell by the responses the results are at best mixed, I rolled the dice due to my particular needs, and it works ok for me but again if I drove it daily, I would be putting in the luk flywheel with the sach sport cover and disk. The problem you face is that while the thing is out it's easy to put in, but if you hate it, It's just as much to undo, and the extra money spent is wasted, a bit of a gamble. IMHO.
I know its always an issue when you take your car into the shop, the guys always want to get everything right, but if you have 50-60% left on the clutch, (and I don't exactly know what "getting a little soft" means in terms of serviceablity) but if it is serviceable, put it back in and spend the extra hundred dollars or so on the separate tranny pull later, it's not that huge of a difference and you can max out your current clutch. (unless you are doing DE's or autoX, then do the clutch)
If you still want to do it Performance products (no affiliation) has the whole LWF kit for $1,500 and I think you can still get the 15% end of year discount (and they do recommend a remapped chip):
http://www.performanceproducts.com/p...ywheel+Package
They have the Fidanza lightweight alum flywheel for under $500, but I don't know anything about it.
Despite all my groussing about it, one benefit is no one is interested in driving my car, once around the block and they give it right back, great if you have teens at home....
either way let us know how it comes out.
I think as you can tell by the responses the results are at best mixed, I rolled the dice due to my particular needs, and it works ok for me but again if I drove it daily, I would be putting in the luk flywheel with the sach sport cover and disk. The problem you face is that while the thing is out it's easy to put in, but if you hate it, It's just as much to undo, and the extra money spent is wasted, a bit of a gamble. IMHO.
I know its always an issue when you take your car into the shop, the guys always want to get everything right, but if you have 50-60% left on the clutch, (and I don't exactly know what "getting a little soft" means in terms of serviceablity) but if it is serviceable, put it back in and spend the extra hundred dollars or so on the separate tranny pull later, it's not that huge of a difference and you can max out your current clutch. (unless you are doing DE's or autoX, then do the clutch)
If you still want to do it Performance products (no affiliation) has the whole LWF kit for $1,500 and I think you can still get the 15% end of year discount (and they do recommend a remapped chip):
http://www.performanceproducts.com/p...ywheel+Package
They have the Fidanza lightweight alum flywheel for under $500, but I don't know anything about it.
Despite all my groussing about it, one benefit is no one is interested in driving my car, once around the block and they give it right back, great if you have teens at home....
either way let us know how it comes out.
#21
Drifting
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I found the Fidanza LWF listed for $365 and it weighs 14lbs. Anyone have any direct experience with this one? Is it compatible with the Sachs OEM style clutch set? Would I need to change any other components out if I went with Fidanza or other LWF?
#22
Rennlist Member
Greg, do a search here and in the 993 forum on Fidanza. It has not gotten rave reviews to say the least.
From what I have read there are better ways to skin that cat.
From what I have read there are better ways to skin that cat.
#23
Technical Guru
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Originally Posted by TR6
I found the Fidanza LWF listed for $365 and it weighs 14lbs.
#24
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Let me change the tune...
Don't change anything, if this is a weekend toy then it will last you another 3-5 years (assuming you're nice to the clutch and don't try to drag your car)
In 4-5 years you will still need to pull the engine out for other stuff.. valves, leaks, tune, heads or top-end, etc...
I wouldn't change a thing... Besides to drop the engine is no more than $500 so its not crazy to wait until you really need it.
All mechanics that I've talked always recommend new clutch or flywheel with the same argument "its getting soft" of course! cause it's in their best interest... they need to put their kids thru college, just like anyone else.....
My suggestion is to wait and save until you can do this when you have the money not when the expense is unexpected... don't use the unexpected expense on a weekend toy when real emergencies can use that money...
Note: None of the above applies if you have enough money to stay out of trouble, in which case go for the most expensive
my 2 cents.
-Jasper
Don't change anything, if this is a weekend toy then it will last you another 3-5 years (assuming you're nice to the clutch and don't try to drag your car)
In 4-5 years you will still need to pull the engine out for other stuff.. valves, leaks, tune, heads or top-end, etc...
I wouldn't change a thing... Besides to drop the engine is no more than $500 so its not crazy to wait until you really need it.
All mechanics that I've talked always recommend new clutch or flywheel with the same argument "its getting soft" of course! cause it's in their best interest... they need to put their kids thru college, just like anyone else.....
My suggestion is to wait and save until you can do this when you have the money not when the expense is unexpected... don't use the unexpected expense on a weekend toy when real emergencies can use that money...
Note: None of the above applies if you have enough money to stay out of trouble, in which case go for the most expensive
my 2 cents.
-Jasper
#25
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I agree with Jasper - what does a "soft" DMF mean, anyhow? The driveline engages softly with no jarring? Sounds like a good DMF to me!
Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
#26
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by garrett376
I agree with Jasper - what does a "soft" DMF mean, anyhow? The driveline engages softly with no jarring? Sounds like a good DMF to me!
Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
Not saying the mechanic is a good judge of this by feel, I don't know him. Based on my limited experience with this I think it would be hard to tell. I had a bad DMF and a new one side by side and there was a very slight difference between the two. Jason A. stated there is a spec for how much rotationmovement there should be but the new one behaved similar to the old/dead one. Neither sprung back completely. I'd say the old one just felt a bit sloppier.
I do know that when it gets too "soft" bad things happen. I just replaced the DMF in my 993 because of a very noticeable vibration. As a point of reference it had 100K miles on it.
#28
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by garrett376
The DMF has springs... no rubber... doesn't it?
Both rubber and springs?
Edit: thinking about this a bit more, I am sure there are springs. I would guess they do the work. The rubber I saw is probably just a dust seal or something like that.
Can these be disassembled? I have an old one... would be interesting to take apart.
Last edited by MarkD; 12-31-2006 at 07:39 PM.
#29
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hmm, I've done 5 of these in the last year and haven't seen plastic from the outside... anyhow, here's the Factory Manual's diagnosis (basically, no driveline noise, no need to replace):