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Replacing clutch and flywheel: seeking input on components

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Old 12-30-2006, 12:08 PM
  #16  
Indycam
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"from Andial, I highly recommend the "mid weight" flywheel they sell."
That would be the 89 flywheel ?
If it is , why buy it from a big buck place ?

The 89 was the 1st and the best , the original design .

http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?...E&carmodel=911

Centerforce spring center 89
http://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-DF.../dp/B000FKH9U4
Old 12-30-2006, 02:12 PM
  #17  
Eric Kessel
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The Andial "Mid Weight Flywheel" is a bit confusing. They add weight to a LWF. I don't know if it is the same as the 89.
Old 12-30-2006, 05:08 PM
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JW in Texas
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The dualmass flywheel from a 993TT or 996TT will more than handle the power you are outputting with a supercharger.
Good point. I'll keep that in mind if I ever need to replace mine. This motor was built back in '90 so the 993tt/996tt wasn't an option yet.
Old 12-30-2006, 05:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Eric Kessel
The Andial "Mid Weight Flywheel" is a bit confusing. They add weight to a LWF. I don't know if it is the same as the 89.
The MY89 flywheel weighs just as much as the LWF. Porsche made up the weight difference (5-7 pounds) with a heavier pressure plate.
Old 12-30-2006, 07:13 PM
  #20  
J richard
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Default LWF

Greg,

I think as you can tell by the responses the results are at best mixed, I rolled the dice due to my particular needs, and it works ok for me but again if I drove it daily, I would be putting in the luk flywheel with the sach sport cover and disk. The problem you face is that while the thing is out it's easy to put in, but if you hate it, It's just as much to undo, and the extra money spent is wasted, a bit of a gamble. IMHO.

I know its always an issue when you take your car into the shop, the guys always want to get everything right, but if you have 50-60% left on the clutch, (and I don't exactly know what "getting a little soft" means in terms of serviceablity) but if it is serviceable, put it back in and spend the extra hundred dollars or so on the separate tranny pull later, it's not that huge of a difference and you can max out your current clutch. (unless you are doing DE's or autoX, then do the clutch)

If you still want to do it Performance products (no affiliation) has the whole LWF kit for $1,500 and I think you can still get the 15% end of year discount (and they do recommend a remapped chip):

http://www.performanceproducts.com/p...ywheel+Package

They have the Fidanza lightweight alum flywheel for under $500, but I don't know anything about it.

Despite all my groussing about it, one benefit is no one is interested in driving my car, once around the block and they give it right back, great if you have teens at home....

either way let us know how it comes out.
Old 12-30-2006, 08:26 PM
  #21  
TR6
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I found the Fidanza LWF listed for $365 and it weighs 14lbs. Anyone have any direct experience with this one? Is it compatible with the Sachs OEM style clutch set? Would I need to change any other components out if I went with Fidanza or other LWF?
Old 12-30-2006, 08:41 PM
  #22  
MarkD
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Greg, do a search here and in the 993 forum on Fidanza. It has not gotten rave reviews to say the least.
From what I have read there are better ways to skin that cat.
Old 12-30-2006, 09:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TR6
I found the Fidanza LWF listed for $365 and it weighs 14lbs.
You can buy the factory 964RS LWF for about the same price. It weighs 3lbs less, there are no potential out of balance issues and Porsche still uses the exact same flywheel today on the 997GT3-RS. For best service and pricing I would go with Sunset Imports or Viperbob. He is the only regular poster/vendor on the Rennlist 964 & 993 forums with actual experience installing these (not that it's difficult) which can be helpful if you get stuck and need someone to call.
Old 12-30-2006, 10:04 PM
  #24  
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Let me change the tune...
Don't change anything, if this is a weekend toy then it will last you another 3-5 years (assuming you're nice to the clutch and don't try to drag your car)

In 4-5 years you will still need to pull the engine out for other stuff.. valves, leaks, tune, heads or top-end, etc...

I wouldn't change a thing... Besides to drop the engine is no more than $500 so its not crazy to wait until you really need it.

All mechanics that I've talked always recommend new clutch or flywheel with the same argument "its getting soft" of course! cause it's in their best interest... they need to put their kids thru college, just like anyone else.....

My suggestion is to wait and save until you can do this when you have the money not when the expense is unexpected... don't use the unexpected expense on a weekend toy when real emergencies can use that money...

Note: None of the above applies if you have enough money to stay out of trouble, in which case go for the most expensive

my 2 cents.
-Jasper
Old 12-31-2006, 06:15 PM
  #25  
garrett376
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I agree with Jasper - what does a "soft" DMF mean, anyhow? The driveline engages softly with no jarring? Sounds like a good DMF to me!

Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
Old 12-31-2006, 07:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by garrett376
I agree with Jasper - what does a "soft" DMF mean, anyhow? The driveline engages softly with no jarring? Sounds like a good DMF to me!

Keep your existing flywheel, get new clutch parts, and spend your money on your transmission to get it fixed!!!
I think soft would mean the rubber in the hub is "going bad" and going to be a problem soon. How many miles on the DMF Greg?

Not saying the mechanic is a good judge of this by feel, I don't know him. Based on my limited experience with this I think it would be hard to tell. I had a bad DMF and a new one side by side and there was a very slight difference between the two. Jason A. stated there is a spec for how much rotationmovement there should be but the new one behaved similar to the old/dead one. Neither sprung back completely. I'd say the old one just felt a bit sloppier.

I do know that when it gets too "soft" bad things happen. I just replaced the DMF in my 993 because of a very noticeable vibration. As a point of reference it had 100K miles on it.
Old 12-31-2006, 07:08 PM
  #27  
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The DMF has springs... no rubber... doesn't it?
Old 12-31-2006, 07:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by garrett376
The DMF has springs... no rubber... doesn't it?
Hmm... there is rubber. It is visible. If there are springs internally to the DMF it's news to me. Then again, lot's of things are news to me. I'm no expert. Just know where I've been.
Both rubber and springs?

Edit: thinking about this a bit more, I am sure there are springs. I would guess they do the work. The rubber I saw is probably just a dust seal or something like that.

Can these be disassembled? I have an old one... would be interesting to take apart.

Last edited by MarkD; 12-31-2006 at 07:39 PM.
Old 12-31-2006, 07:24 PM
  #29  
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Hmm, I've done 5 of these in the last year and haven't seen plastic from the outside... anyhow, here's the Factory Manual's diagnosis (basically, no driveline noise, no need to replace):
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Old 12-31-2006, 07:27 PM
  #30  
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Another tidbit from the manual:
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