chancecasey

So, I have some major rash and a coule of minor gouges on some used cup 2's I just got for a steal.

I'm in the process of refinishing them (I'm using strong adhesive remover) - but i was just kind of wondering, if the rest of the wheel is perfect, I mean perfect, besides the gouged/rashed area, am I wasting my time stripping the whole thing?

I started stripping the whole thing because I though spraying silver then clear over existing perfect finish might look funny, like I might see some overlap. Frankly I'm getting pretty tired of this stripping - guess I need to go to Home Depot tomorrow and get something some "real" paint stripper if this is the route I need to go. Do I just mask the valve stem with masking tape, by the way?

Thanks!

Bill Wagner

You might very well find the paint quite resistant to paint stripper since it's probably a baked on type finish. That's guess, by the way, not a fact.

RSGulp

When I've had wheels professionally refurbished in the past they usually strip them in a chemical bath, then bead blast to remove all previous paint. Then the choice is usually to respray or powder coat, then laquer, then low-bake.

Cost in the Uk for this starts at about £40 per wheel - don't forget this is 'Rip-off Britain' where everything costs more than everywhere else. I'm sure it's cheaper in the US.

Rich

amfp

My 2 cents as know there is wheel repair for a BMW on the web. For me, when I wanted to do it, it is not a DIY. It is very difficult to get the color to match (there is a Wurth US and German Color, difficult to order through Grasuit, but really is a Glasurit match for the silver base coat if you need),and without being an expert with all the right chemicals, it can become a domino effect problem.

For about $100 or so, I would take to wheel refinisher, or quality Porsche body shop.

wsybert

I would strip them, if you can find a suitable stripping chemical. Go to a paint shop and ask what they recommend.
You can also pull the valve stem. They are replaceable.
Keep us posted on what you find... I am going to r&r mine this winter.

garrett376

I think it's definitely a DIY project - I've redone at least 8 wheels in the last couple years with fantastic results. You can read my post, but sanding is all that's needed- no stripping.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/144792-uggh-can-t-believe-i-scuffed-my-wheels-refinish-possible.html

chancecasey

Yes Garrett - I've read your (and other posts) with great interest. I know power sanding would get it off fast, but getting around that valve stem and the lettering indicating offset/size would be a bear. I've let the air out of the tire and can clamp it down some to get a little clearance - but sanding around that stem will be impossible. Can you remove/replace the stem with the tire still on the wheel?

Also, any luck on finding the wurth silver or einzatt silber at local stores? Also, what brand of urethane clear did you use - since I know I don't want to use the wurth clear laquer.

And back to my original question - I DO have to do the whole thing and not just little areas right? By the way, ,I'm leaning this way anyway, because the OEM paint is SUPER thick. Man, they really stacked that stuff on!

springer3

Try "soft scrub", and abrasive tub cleaner, and a tooth brush to scrub around the creavaces, lettering, and the like. It leaves a nice satin profile, and rinses away with no problem.

Minwax clear urethane spar varnish over Wurth silver has lasted for years on my 964 and two different 300Es. I have gone years with no loss of gloss, and cleaning is easy.

It is just as much work to fix a small spot, and it will always show. Fill the scratches as Garrett suggests, wet sand and refinish. The wheel will look like new. A trick if the tire is still mounted is to use roof flashing. Fit it in the creavice between the tire and the rim. When it settles in place you have a 6 inch tall open cylinder that fits the rim and keeps paint off the tire. Place masking tape at the overlap joint, and it is easy to transfer to the next wheel. Best of all, the 6-inch height forces to paint around a circle, and you are sure to get all parts properly coated.

This is an easy DIY, but somewhat time consuming. I can 5 wheels for about two hours labor, but overall project takes all day because you have to wait for drying time. Compared at $100+ per wheel pluss shipping and handling to have it done professionally. Materials run about $40. Your time is well compensated, especially if you enjoy a DIY project.

chancecasey

So, no amount of abrasives and brushing could get even cut the old clearcoat around the offset numbers and valve stems. I can't get in there with a sander - the dremmel wire wheel would take forever - and - some of the curb rash is right next to the tire itself making sanding darn near impossible - and the stripper I use says do NOT use with rubber.

So I just went to a shop and had them remove the tires ($18). Now I can just go to town with the stripper (hmm) and we'll see how things end up. Pelican was out of Wurth so shipped me the Einzatt Silber instead. I'm hoping the Minwax clear urethane spar varnish will be compatible. By the way, where would I pick that varnish up? Home depot doesn't carry anything other than rustoleum.

Also, I didn't see from the other thread - how/where did you mask the lug holes?

chancecasey

I don't see any spray cans of anything on the minwax site - closest thing I found was a can of "Helmsman® Spar Urethane" that you have to brush on.

I did find this:
urethane link

Is that correct?

MarkD

I used Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane, Clear Gloss. Have the can in front of me. Can't recall where I bought it but it was a local store.

Also, for filling curb rash, I used a thick "crazy glue" (cyno-something or other, ya know, that stuff) and it works well. Sandable... fast.. etc.
Good luck!

EDIT: just saw your edit above, yep, except I think you want gloss, not satin.

chancecasey

Wow after digging around - boat builders HATE minwax and say always use Captains Spar Varnish. Now, I realize I'm not varnishing a wooden boat, but thought it was interesting nonetheless. Since I know I don't want the lacquer, I want urethane, and you guys have had great luck with it I'll get it if I can just see a can of it so I know what to look for.

MarkD

Chance, the link you posted is exactly what the can looks like... except I think you want the Gloss version.

chancecasey

OK after a little searching I found it. Don't know if this applies to all paint stores but FWIW the "Kelly Moore" store didn't carry minwax products and the "Benjamin Moore" store did - and had exactly the right stuff - Yay. Now I just need one additional vital tool - the beer. Hmm, wonder what would be appropriate for wheel refinishing...

jim dorociak

Has anyone sprayed this on a polished outer rim half from a 3 piece wheel? Did you pick the marine version because it would be more durable, uv resistant? Or is this what others have used with good results? Why not a satin clear coat instead of Gloss? Gloss over silver paint is the finish you guys were looking for on painted wheel? Jim