Could it be happening again? Help
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Now about 800 or so miles later it seems to have the ticking again and it feels like is loses power sometimes as the RPM go up.
Today I drove to the shop that worked on it and it was more noticeable to me during the drive
but the guy was closed.
How can this happen again?
The shop said they thought the last valve job someone got the sealant on the cam and rockers causing the lost of oil to area.
I don't understand how this can be happening again. Same symptoms a ticking with the engine speed. good oil pressure , and not getting hot.
I am hoping he is in Sat so he can hear it, here is the link
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Has anyone ever heard of this?
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/302229-help-my-new-964-has-engine-trouble-i-am-out-of-town.html
Last edited by deoxford; 11-25-2006 at 12:10 AM.
#4
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If they got rid of the symptom but not the cause it would happen again .
"The shop said they thought the last valve job someone got the sealant on the cam and rockers causing the lost of oil to area."
Did they really say that ?
If they did that seems a very odd thing to place the blame on .
The problem might be in the oil supply to the cams .
The problem might be in the case .
I bought a car 20+ years ago . The valves would not stay adjusted .
After I adjusted them a few times , I took it all apart to see what was going on . The shaft the rockers all ran on , was the oil supply to the rockers also . It was warn away under every rocker .
Every rocker was backing away from its valve by eating the shaft . The shaft was ment to have plugs
in each end . Having no plugs the oil just ran out the ends of the rocker shaft .
"The shop said they thought the last valve job someone got the sealant on the cam and rockers causing the lost of oil to area."
Did they really say that ?
If they did that seems a very odd thing to place the blame on .
The problem might be in the oil supply to the cams .
The problem might be in the case .
I bought a car 20+ years ago . The valves would not stay adjusted .
After I adjusted them a few times , I took it all apart to see what was going on . The shaft the rockers all ran on , was the oil supply to the rockers also . It was warn away under every rocker .
Every rocker was backing away from its valve by eating the shaft . The shaft was ment to have plugs
in each end . Having no plugs the oil just ran out the ends of the rocker shaft .
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That is what I was thinking , they just did not fix the cause of the issue.So we are back to the same spot again.
I did notice that the car will drop to about 1 to 1.5 bar of oil pressure once warm @ idle.Should it be about 2? But when running it has 5 bar.
I did notice that the car will drop to about 1 to 1.5 bar of oil pressure once warm @ idle.Should it be about 2? But when running it has 5 bar.
#6
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Every car / gauge / sender is uncalibrated so its hard to say whats what from just the gauge .
I'd just take the car back and very nicely say that you are worried about the motor cause you are hearing things . Leave it up to them to fix it up . People make mistakes , no big deal . They fixed it free of charge to you I think and hopefully they will again .
I'd just take the car back and very nicely say that you are worried about the motor cause you are hearing things . Leave it up to them to fix it up . People make mistakes , no big deal . They fixed it free of charge to you I think and hopefully they will again .
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#9
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Hello Deoxford,
Unless the shop did something wrong I wouldn't think about the worst...
I've had almost the same situation: rebuilded engine (due to valve guides, etc.) and about 600 miles after the rebuild there was this ticking valve sound again which became worser and worser...
Panic! Removed valve covers, checked this/checking that....
Someone suggests that it also could be a leaking exhaust... But my "common sense" (...) said that it sounds exactly like a ticking valve...
So I took it to the shop and they said it was clearly a ticking valve. They measured valves and other things that could make this sound... nothing to find...
I asked them to check the exhaust pipe to cylinder head connection: nothing to see, no trace of black carbon 'puffs'... And still the ticking sound was there...
Another shop offered me the possibility to check things out again. First thing they checked was the exhaust to cylinder head connection... still nothing to see but when they started the engine and revved it up untill 2000 rpm (warm engine) it became clear there was a very small leak which made exactly the sound of a ticking valve...
Maybe this story will let you check other things first. As you can read there was no trace of carbon at the spot where the leak appeared but there was a leak for real..
Regards,
Dick964
Unless the shop did something wrong I wouldn't think about the worst...
I've had almost the same situation: rebuilded engine (due to valve guides, etc.) and about 600 miles after the rebuild there was this ticking valve sound again which became worser and worser...
Panic! Removed valve covers, checked this/checking that....
Someone suggests that it also could be a leaking exhaust... But my "common sense" (...) said that it sounds exactly like a ticking valve...
So I took it to the shop and they said it was clearly a ticking valve. They measured valves and other things that could make this sound... nothing to find...
I asked them to check the exhaust pipe to cylinder head connection: nothing to see, no trace of black carbon 'puffs'... And still the ticking sound was there...
Another shop offered me the possibility to check things out again. First thing they checked was the exhaust to cylinder head connection... still nothing to see but when they started the engine and revved it up untill 2000 rpm (warm engine) it became clear there was a very small leak which made exactly the sound of a ticking valve...
Maybe this story will let you check other things first. As you can read there was no trace of carbon at the spot where the leak appeared but there was a leak for real..
Regards,
Dick964
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UPDATE:
So I dropped the car @ the shop today , and this is what they said.
They said that they are not surprised that it did it again.
They told the guy I bought the car from that they thought the case needed to be split to get the all the sealant that is plugging the oil ports.
He said that he fixed the right side and then he discovered that it was plugged on the left side , that is why he needed to change both sides out.
They told the guy I bought it from that the case really need to be split to make sure the issue is fixed, but he said to just fix the broken parts. I quess we will see what happens from here.
Thanks
Derek
So I dropped the car @ the shop today , and this is what they said.
They said that they are not surprised that it did it again.
They told the guy I bought the car from that they thought the case needed to be split to get the all the sealant that is plugging the oil ports.
He said that he fixed the right side and then he discovered that it was plugged on the left side , that is why he needed to change both sides out.
They told the guy I bought it from that the case really need to be split to make sure the issue is fixed, but he said to just fix the broken parts. I quess we will see what happens from here.
Thanks
Derek
Last edited by deoxford; 11-27-2006 at 10:50 PM.
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If the issue does end up being because the previous owner did not split the case, I think that I would be having a talk with the P. O. Possibly getting them to help fixing the problem or paying for it all. The P.O. should have told you about this before selling the car.