Alternator/Fan Bearing Question?
11-18-2006, 02:01 PM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
Indycam and Loren,
Thanks for your suggestions, I'll keep pluggin away at it until I figure it out..
This mornings fun..
I took the 14 pin connector apart
I grounded pin #11 to the block, no light
I grounded D+ to the block, no light
I put a meter on both ends of the blue wire (D+ and Pin 11) wire not broken
So, the wire is intact from the alt to the 14 pin connector..
Grounding the pin or the wire does not produce a batt light, keep in mind I have no other lights now working in the clock..
Back to the garage...............
Thanks for your suggestions, I'll keep pluggin away at it until I figure it out..
This mornings fun..
I took the 14 pin connector apart
I grounded pin #11 to the block, no light
I grounded D+ to the block, no light
I put a meter on both ends of the blue wire (D+ and Pin 11) wire not broken
So, the wire is intact from the alt to the 14 pin connector..
Grounding the pin or the wire does not produce a batt light, keep in mind I have no other lights now working in the clock..
Back to the garage...............
11-18-2006, 07:14 PM
#32
Is there some more to this story that wasn't told? Had the alternator and cooling fan belts been replaced or removed recently (as in moments before the belt broke?) If the spacers and shims are incorrectly assembled, the belts try and run at the same speed...which they shouldn't.. and the belt breaks.
11-18-2006, 07:21 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Busts up a belt , puts another belt on , it goes up in smoke , pulls the alt out ,
"had it rebuilt..the bearing that the alternator shaft runs on was frozen, the cooling fan bearing was ok.."
puts alt in and finds that alls not well .
Its hard to see how a bad bearing causes electrical parts to go bad , but what do I know ?
"had it rebuilt..the bearing that the alternator shaft runs on was frozen, the cooling fan bearing was ok.."
puts alt in and finds that alls not well .
Its hard to see how a bad bearing causes electrical parts to go bad , but what do I know ?
11-20-2006, 09:20 AM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Pulled the alt and had it tested again, the alt is fine, VR is fine..
Here's where I'm at as of last night:
The manual I've been using as a reference is the 1989 Mitchell Electrical shop manual, it's wrong!!!! The wiring diagrams and colors of wires are inncorrect..I've been using this manual because it's easier to read, larger print (should have eaten more carrots as a kid), D+ routing and wire colors are different than whats on the car...
Also, took the clock apart, checked each connection, took the solder out of the three posts holding it in the clock body, resoldered and now 3 lights are on where before I had no lights on..
Doesnt make sense the alt shaft seizing would affect the clock?
I believe at this point it is pure coincidence the alt shaft bearing and clock crapped out at the same time, a million to one odds...if that's the case, I need to start playing the lotto
Here's where I'm at as of last night:
The manual I've been using as a reference is the 1989 Mitchell Electrical shop manual, it's wrong!!!! The wiring diagrams and colors of wires are inncorrect..I've been using this manual because it's easier to read, larger print (should have eaten more carrots as a kid), D+ routing and wire colors are different than whats on the car...
Also, took the clock apart, checked each connection, took the solder out of the three posts holding it in the clock body, resoldered and now 3 lights are on where before I had no lights on..
Doesnt make sense the alt shaft seizing would affect the clock?
I believe at this point it is pure coincidence the alt shaft bearing and clock crapped out at the same time, a million to one odds...if that's the case, I need to start playing the lotto
11-20-2006, 12:33 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
So did the wires get put on a for b and b for a ?
Did D+ get screwed to ground ?
"Doesnt make sense the alt shaft seizing would affect the clock?"
No , I don't think so , the alt would stop spinning and its output would go down to nothing .
"I need to start playing the lotto"
Don't spend good beer money on the lotto .
You are not on a winning streak .
Did D+ get screwed to ground ?
"Doesnt make sense the alt shaft seizing would affect the clock?"
No , I don't think so , the alt would stop spinning and its output would go down to nothing .
"I need to start playing the lotto"
Don't spend good beer money on the lotto .
You are not on a winning streak .
Last edited by Indycam; 11-20-2006 at 01:40 PM.
11-22-2006, 03:46 PM
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
For the umpteenth time: Alt checks OK.. 
pure coincidence..Alt shaft bearing and clock soldering crapped the bed at the same time..., resoldered clock and all's well, charge indicator light comes on
My lessons learned:
1. If Alternator checks good, stop checkin the flippin alternator
2. Check the clock PCB
3. Check the wiring to the clock
4. Dont use a Mitchell manual for wiring problems
5. Continue to be a DIY'er, it's a learning process (sometimes very painful)
Have a great Turkey Day
Craig
pure coincidence..Alt shaft bearing and clock soldering crapped the bed at the same time..., resoldered clock and all's well, charge indicator light comes on
My lessons learned:
1. If Alternator checks good, stop checkin the flippin alternator
2. Check the clock PCB
3. Check the wiring to the clock
4. Dont use a Mitchell manual for wiring problems
5. Continue to be a DIY'er, it's a learning process (sometimes very painful)
Have a great Turkey Day
Craig
04-27-2022, 03:28 PM
#37
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The B+ wire (red) goes directly from the alternator to the starter (Term 30) and then straight to the battery. The D+ wire (blue) travels from the alternator out to pin #11 on the 14-pin connector in the engine fuse box and then to the alarm control unit (Term 61) and then from there it splits off to the ABS control unit and to the clock (pin #12) and from there to the central informer (pin #1).
If your alternator or the wiring between it and the fusebox was the problem your battery warning light on the clock should have illuminated when you grounded pin #11 in the engine fusebox! That's why I suggested to start there first and then work your way through the rest of the system. The fact that you have no warning lights when turning the ignition to start means there is problem with Term 15 from the ignition switch to the clock or with the clock itself? Which is what I think Loren was hinting at? Unfortunately (or rather fortunately for me) my alternator trouble-shooting experience is extremely limited.
If your alternator or the wiring between it and the fusebox was the problem your battery warning light on the clock should have illuminated when you grounded pin #11 in the engine fusebox! That's why I suggested to start there first and then work your way through the rest of the system. The fact that you have no warning lights when turning the ignition to start means there is problem with Term 15 from the ignition switch to the clock or with the clock itself? Which is what I think Loren was hinting at? Unfortunately (or rather fortunately for me) my alternator trouble-shooting experience is extremely limited.
However, same issue again - no alt, seat belt or any other lights. Grounded the D+ #11 pin in the 14-pin connecter in the rear fusebox and still no change (no lights). Taking this as not being a problem with the alternator but instead between 'terminal 15' from ign switch to the clock. Am I right in thinking it's a #15 pin from the 10-pin ignition switch to the clock, or would it be some other component?
My only routes seem to be either a) a replacement clock (from ebay) or b) unsolder again the clock PCB, remove and continuity test all connections or c) new ignition switch?
Thanks. Marcus
Last edited by LM964; 04-27-2022 at 07:20 PM.
