flywheel sensor
I know exactly what you mean, I will phone them later and ask if i can be present in another test or ask to see the data from the previous test.
I know it is a long shot but would the soundness of the ground/leads be a problem at pins 2 and 19
If so is it a simple ohms test
Dave
It is a good idea to start with a ground reference point. Probably the battery
negative terminal . Use something like a jump lead to extend your multimeter
negative lead . Put your meter positive on the DME grounds and crank( meter
on DC volts ). Dont be suprised to see a small voltage on your meter - 0.2/3 volts . Earth problems show when that voltage is much bigger , showing an
earth path resistance .
At least with all the tests you have done you will be much better able to describe what the problem is !!
I would keep it simple - no signal on pin 1 !!
Did you ever look at that injector pulse ?
Geoff
If you test the wire from pin 1 to the ignition switch by the coil , do you get low ohms resistance ?
Im wondering if the dme is putting out a signal but its being lost at the connector to the dme .
What is this for????????????
The guy has indicated that the tach signal (basically the spark signal) on pin 6 is there
and the actual spark drive (pin 1) is not. So the focus should be on;
PIN 1 - PIN 1 - PIN 1 - PIN 1 - PIN 1
13 pages? Is this the "blind leading the blind"?
Dave, you have my sympathy!
Its no problem, I have learned an hell of a lot these last few months.
Pin 17 , Ignition on = 12 volts, on first cranking the reading shoots to zero then jumps up and down, in a steady pulse between say 9 ish volts and 12 volts.
The earth test was ok the most the voltage registered was 0.1
Dave
I tested pin 1 at the back of the 49 pin connector with the black protection sleeve removed and pulled back, So my probe is actually making contact with the female metal connector which in turn is in contact with the dme male pin , I have also tested by piercing the outer sleeve on wire one.
For the ohms test do you mean one probe on pin 1 connector and one probe at the ignition module connector, white pin 1 wire ?
The signal needs to come out of the dme , get across the connector and into the wire . If the signal is not jumping across the connector ....
"For the ohms test do you mean one probe on pin 1 connector and one probe at the ignition module connector, white pin 1 wire ?"
If the red probe touches the dme pin 1 upsteam of the connector and the black touches the wire down stream from the connector , what sort of ohms reading ?
The reading should be zero resistance , it should be just like touching the two probes together .
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I am pretty sure the contacts are touching, I have closed the female connector up the best best I can.
Also just done an ohms test on the full legnth of no 1 wire and the reading is "000" , just the same as touching the probes
Dave
Waiting for the print out from the ecu test.
I have just had an idea, Instead of someone lending me a working ECU to test, which is very unlikely.
Is anyone prepared to insert my ECU into there car to completely eliminate the ecu from the equation.
Preferably lsomeone local to Cornwall.
I wont be offended by refusals as it is a big ask
Dave
http://www.jdsporsche.com/
He's a Rennlist sponsor who's very knowledgeable about ECMs, e.g. 928s types which
aren't all that different, i.e. same microprocessors and I/O circuits.


