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Guide to fitting front component speakers

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Old 03-27-2014, 05:02 PM
  #31  
Seaflat
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This is a great thread and it took a while to find this one out of the many….

I have a few questions on speakers (yes even with this great thread I have questions)

There seems to be 3 ways to do this unless I am confused (entirely possible).
Buy 6.5 size woofers and use the grills that come with the speakers (I want the OEM look)
Buy ?? (6.5 or 5.5) size speakers and mount to the door card
Buy ?? (6.5 or 5.5) size speakers and mount to the door, cover with the

Best sound idea seems to mount them directly to the door (not the card). I am toying with doing this. I BELIEVE what I am reading in many threads is:
1 buy (what size speaker 5.5 or 6.5) and screw directly into some pre drilled holes which are supposed to exist.
2. Cut the old speaker free of the external mounting frame that is on the front of the door card.
3. Put the door card back over the speaker that is mounted to the door and screw in the front part of the frame that you previously cut onto the door card.
4. Mount the old cover back on the old frame now mounted to the door card.

Now if you don’t want to mount directly to the door what size speaker is it 5.5 or 6.5? I am happy to just buy what has worked for others so a model number or link would be great for the tweeter/woofer/crossover (I assume they are all sold together).
I am not sure if I want to go the easy route and just mount to the card or the audiophile route and mount to the frame. I just need to know the size and method for each.
Great pics btw..
...now if I can just get the grills off the woofers (I have heard they pry off and that they are attached with clips from the back)

Here is the other threads I was reading:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...o-install.html
Old 03-27-2014, 05:45 PM
  #32  
vtdriver
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Call Rod at Car Audio Innovations in Roseville CA. He is the expert on 964 stereo installs.
Focal 5.5" components will fit in oem holes and sound amazing! They are pricey but the install advice from Rod is well worth the cost.
Old 03-27-2014, 05:47 PM
  #33  
hamah
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Yes, one of us is a little confused (probably me).

1) don't worry about the predrilled holes in the door for the mids. IIRC they have a pattern specific to the OEM crap speakers. Pick a speaker you like, 6.5 or 5.5. Without removing the door card, try to see if the shape/depth of the basket/magnet will allow a flush fitting of the new speaker to the door card. If it fits drill and mount the speaker directly to door metal THROUGH the door card. If not you could put a speaker mounting ring (I've carved them from 5/8" MDF for my cab) behind the door card to give some more clearance. If that approach seems too much hassle find a different set of speakers but likely you will be just fine as most speakers will fit. I had to go with the mounting rings as I used Hertz MLK 165 which are seriously overkill unless you are an audiophile.

2) Forget about cutting the old speaker to bits so you can mount the flange and OEM grill back to the door card to cover the new speaker. This is a recipe for vibration and poor sound. I've never done or seen an installation like that and I've done 100's over the years in a wide variety of situations. Yeah you will be putting a few mounting holes through the door card but if you don't mount the speaker DIRECTLY to the door you are wasting time and money. I repeat, mounting the speaker to the door card in any way or fashion is a waste of time and money if the goal is to improve the sound.

3) The best way to mount new tweets (this is a component installation consisting of separate mids and tweets with a cross-over correct?) is to keep the OEM mounting bracket and grill and MacGyver your new tweets into the old frame. In my case I used hot glue (I've been told that hot glue does not work well long term in very hot climates but I've never had an issue with using it. It's magical for stuff like this).

Hopefully this helps and doesn't just cause more confusion.
Old 03-27-2014, 11:31 PM
  #34  
Jay H
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Remember, these are cars designed in Germany using the Metric system of measurement. Speakers designed in millimeters will drop right in without much modification. Using English based speakers such as ones with English measurements like 5.25", 6.5", etc., will lead you to do more modifications.

I'll second the Hertz speaker recommendation. Metric sized drivers that sound awesome in the car.
Old 03-28-2014, 09:28 AM
  #35  
Seaflat
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I like the idea of just drilling through the card and into the metal. Seems to be the easiest route. If you do this will it pull the door card hard into the door and cause any bow to the card being pressed into the door?

By looking at the picture of the door card removed, it looks to be a solid ring around the mount and nothing behind that section. So I am assuming it is safe to just drill through it?

Ideally I would like to just remove the tweeters and woofer, mount by the drilling method and just replace the crossover.

So to get the covers off of the woofer you just pry them off? I have put a good amount of force on them but I don't want to break it, in case I can resuse the stock cover. There are 4 small slots on the edges of the grills. Is this the point to pry?
Old 03-29-2014, 11:17 AM
  #36  
Seaflat
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Ok so my set up is a bit different. My crossover is part of back of the woofer and has nothing in a hidden compartment . They must have changed the design in later years.

I spoke to a local business that has been near me forever and they were very helpful. We are going with alpine components. And he totally agreed with the through the door card into the metal method. We will see how we do with the factory screens.

I will post some pics soon.

Additionally to get the covers off mine they have a series of very small tabs on the screen that snap around the mounting ring that is mounted to the outside of the door card. To remove you have to work around the screen pulling out and away from the door. Like you are pulling parallel to the surface of the door and then out slightly . Work your way around slowly. We used an angled pic like a dental tool.

For the head unit I am going with kenwood with Bluetooth and the face color is programmable to match the dash.
Old 07-09-2014, 09:37 AM
  #37  
HiWind
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Any chance these pics are still around or anyone know of similar maf and front door speaker pics?

Originally Posted by Megatron-UK
UPDATE: Pictures have moved... you can find them here: http://targetearth.dyndns.org/www/ca..._speakers.html

After installing the headunit from my previous car, and finding out that someone had installed aftermarket Sony amps (two 2-channel amps) I decided that the front speakers were holding back the sound quality.

Tonight I spent an hour or so removing and replacing the front speakers in my 1993 Turbo 2. I've put a guide together just in case anyone finds it useful....


Standard door speaker setup.


Tweeter covers unscrew.


You need to remove the door bins. You'll need a philips/posidrive screwdriver, the screws are located around the bottom edge of the door bin, with one screw into the side of the hinge for the pocket, and other screw inside the pocket.


With the door bins off, it's pretty easy to pull the mid speaker grills off - they don't screw like the tweeters do.


The tweeter basket is secured from the front with three philips head screws, take them out and the speaker connections are easy to remove.


Similarly, the mid-range speaker basket is held in with 4 screws, again they come out easy and the wires unclip.


Nice blank canvas. Note I haven't gone into the detail of changing the factory crossover as 1) I've got no speaker wire at the moment, 2) I really don't want to take the door cards off, and 3) I'm not entirely sure where the wiring goes with my aftermarket amplifiers.
Old 07-09-2014, 10:10 AM
  #38  
Caveman
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Hi Hiwind,

I don't know where the pictures are but I think the steps are very clear based upon my experience of swapping out the front speakers. Infinity Kappas fit well and you can fit the replacement tweeter in the original housing (on the 993) for a factory finish.

Cheers,

David
Old 07-09-2014, 02:32 PM
  #39  
HiWind
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very kind David - I took the plunge based on how I remember those pics looked and it worked great
especially putting a 6mm spacer between door and speaker so speaker now directly attached (via wood) to door.
Improvement in fullness is truly massive - I'm using the same speaker I had & its clearly much better.


Matt
Old 07-09-2014, 05:29 PM
  #40  
Caveman
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Hi Matt,

No problem - the real skill was in the original write-up! I didn't quite understand what you meant by attached to the door - do you mean the metal work as opposed to the door card? I was speaking to an installer at the Goodwood Festival Of Speed and he said that a bit of dynamat or similar on the inside of the door skin behind the speaker worked well - I might give that a try. He also said that on 964s he removed the glove box and put a slim line sub and that in 993s he used a slimline sub below the glovebox. Strangely he didn't bother using the rear speakers! I have to say his example system (his own 964) did sound really good. :-)
Old 07-10-2014, 10:28 AM
  #41  
sml
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Sound quality improves 200% if you screw the speakers into the metal door frame, rather than the floppy cardboard door card.

There are even predrilled holes in the steel for you.
Old 07-10-2014, 10:38 AM
  #42  
Caveman
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Cool! I will have to check that out. The sad thing is that I replied to this thread in 2006 saying that in two and a half years I hadn't quite got round to fitting my speakers and I only fitted them this year!

Cheers,

David
Old 07-10-2014, 05:52 PM
  #43  
RicardoD
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I just placed an order for complete stereo system upgrade for my Tip. This is a great thread to get me started. I will post a new thread on the install details.
Old 07-11-2014, 12:44 AM
  #44  
HiWind
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Originally Posted by Caveman
Hi Matt,

No problem - the real skill was in the original write-up! I didn't quite understand what you meant by attached to the door - do you mean the metal work as opposed to the door card? I was speaking to an installer at the Goodwood Festival Of Speed and he said that a bit of dynamat or similar on the inside of the door skin behind the speaker worked well - I might give that a try. He also said that on 964s he removed the glove box and put a slim line sub and that in 993s he used a slimline sub below the glovebox. Strangely he didn't bother using the rear speakers! I have to say his example system (his own 964) did sound really good. :-)
Good point re cladding inside door .... I didn't actually but here's pic
As SML says .... Massive improvement.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:51 AM
  #45  
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A great alternative to using pressed wood, is to go and get a cheap plastic cutting board. It cuts very easy, and will not deteriorate with any moisture.


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