Guide to fitting front component speakers
#16
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Originally Posted by Megatron-UK
Yeah, that would be useful; I'm not sure on the colour coding of the wiring to the standard crossover.
Did you leave the standard ones in place, or take them off? (it looked to me like the door cards would need to come off for the crossovers to unscrew from the back).
Did you leave the standard ones in place, or take them off? (it looked to me like the door cards would need to come off for the crossovers to unscrew from the back).
The wiring is really easy and intuitive, the same colors go to the crossovers that go to the speakers and the amp. I just had to splice in some extra length because the cut wires won't reach the connections on the crossovers. You have to cut the wires from the crossover, splice in a little extra length and re-attach to the new crossover. Then you have to find a way to secure the crossovers in the hidden pocket behind the door handle. I came up with a fairly decent solution.
I'm at work again, so I'll try to get some pics posted tonight when I get home.
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Steve
#17
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If you followed the Marc Shaw thread referenced in my previous post then your here.
By the way, funny story about that little red stool in the first picture. I took it out of the bathroom (6 yr. old daughter uses it to stand on to brush her teeth, don't tell my wife about this....) figuring it was perfect to sit on while removing the door hardware. I sat on it, it buckled, dumped me to the floor banging my elbow on the door sill and busting my rear. It took me a few minutes to recover from that.
My speakers were really toast, Way overdue for replacement and they sounded like it.
The wires are color coded. All the brown wires are the grounds. The Woofer wires are yellow(+) and brown(-). The tweeter wires are green(+) and brown(-). The input from the amp wires are black/white(+) and brown(-).
Remove the crossovers by unscrewing them from the backside of the door card. I pried them open so I could cut as much of the wire loose as possible in hopes of being able to make the connection to the new crossover. It didn't
work and I had to splice some extra wire in anyway. But, doing it this way makes is easy to see which +/- wires go together so I recommend it.
Once you add the extra wire, hook up the crossover like the picture below.
Steve
By the way, funny story about that little red stool in the first picture. I took it out of the bathroom (6 yr. old daughter uses it to stand on to brush her teeth, don't tell my wife about this....) figuring it was perfect to sit on while removing the door hardware. I sat on it, it buckled, dumped me to the floor banging my elbow on the door sill and busting my rear. It took me a few minutes to recover from that.
My speakers were really toast, Way overdue for replacement and they sounded like it.
The wires are color coded. All the brown wires are the grounds. The Woofer wires are yellow(+) and brown(-). The tweeter wires are green(+) and brown(-). The input from the amp wires are black/white(+) and brown(-).
Remove the crossovers by unscrewing them from the backside of the door card. I pried them open so I could cut as much of the wire loose as possible in hopes of being able to make the connection to the new crossover. It didn't
work and I had to splice some extra wire in anyway. But, doing it this way makes is easy to see which +/- wires go together so I recommend it.
Once you add the extra wire, hook up the crossover like the picture below.
Steve
Last edited by deep_uv; 09-30-2006 at 03:00 AM.
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Pardonmypov (02-01-2022)
#18
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Install the speakers as described earlier in this thread and re-install the door card.
To secure the crossover in the crossover pocket in the door, I used some foam speaker baffles.
I cut the lip off the baffle and stuffed the crossover face first into the baffle and then into the pocket below the door handle where the original crossover resided.
I then re-installed the door pocket with the crossover stuffed snugly inside the hidden crossover pocket below the door handle and re-installed the stock speaker grilles on the new woofers.
I had lots of emotional support from my old buddy Bullet.
Steve
To secure the crossover in the crossover pocket in the door, I used some foam speaker baffles.
I cut the lip off the baffle and stuffed the crossover face first into the baffle and then into the pocket below the door handle where the original crossover resided.
I then re-installed the door pocket with the crossover stuffed snugly inside the hidden crossover pocket below the door handle and re-installed the stock speaker grilles on the new woofers.
I had lots of emotional support from my old buddy Bullet.
Steve
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Steve, thanks for that info - I've just been out this afternoon and fitted the Infinty crossovers - I could just about fit them in without having to take the door card off to remove the oem crossovers. My crossovers must be a little smaller than yours - I see your speakers are the latest versions with the green/gray cones, I guess the crossover design has changed a little from 2005+....
I used your wiring info to make a short little harness about 8" long to wire them in - so I can unplug my aftermarket kit pretty easily without having to take the door cards off.
There's not a massive difference - certainly not as much as changing from stock speakers to these new ones, but there seems to be a little bit more to the mid range and the high end is a little less overpowering (I used the -3dB tweeter connecting post) with the correct crossovers.
Thanks!
I used your wiring info to make a short little harness about 8" long to wire them in - so I can unplug my aftermarket kit pretty easily without having to take the door cards off.
There's not a massive difference - certainly not as much as changing from stock speakers to these new ones, but there seems to be a little bit more to the mid range and the high end is a little less overpowering (I used the -3dB tweeter connecting post) with the correct crossovers.
Thanks!
#21
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Thanks for the write-up. I have a set of reference speakers that I bought two and a half years ago (just before baby was born) and I haven't quite got round to fitting them! I was wondering where that bloody big crossover box went! Sadly Infinity seem to have saved costs by creating tiny little wires for connecting the mid/bass unit and the tweeter unit so it was the extending the cables bit that was putting me off of installing them.
Are you guys using an amp or just relying on a four times fifty Alpine head unit or similar?
Cheers,
David
Are you guys using an amp or just relying on a four times fifty Alpine head unit or similar?
Cheers,
David
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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David, I've got a 4x45 Pioneer head unit from a previous car that would have been enough to run them ok, but I found quite by accident during fitting it, that a previous owner had fitted two 2-channel 60W RMS amps under the drivers seat ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The 6000cs are rated at 70w RMS (270w peak), so would benefit from a dedicated amp.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The 6000cs are rated at 70w RMS (270w peak), so would benefit from a dedicated amp.
#23
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This is an awesome thread. I bought Polk MMC6500s a few months ago. The crossovers were too big for the stock position, so I put them in the door pocket. Not ideal but I didn't mind.
The real problem for me now are the grill covers. The Polk covers are hideous. I need to find something similar and understated like the Infinity covers that Megatron used. Does anyone have any ideas on where to get them by themselves?
The real problem for me now are the grill covers. The Polk covers are hideous. I need to find something similar and understated like the Infinity covers that Megatron used. Does anyone have any ideas on where to get them by themselves?
#24
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Originally Posted by Caveman
... or just relying on a four times fifty Alpine head unit or similar?
Most head units are 12-18 watts RMS... If you can do it space and dollar wise, a dedicated amp is the only way to go.
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Unfortunately they look better than they actually are; the passenger side has a tear in the rubber half the circumference of the speaker, and the one in the pictures above (drivers side) is wearing thin in certain areas of the paper cone (you know how the paper goes 'fluffy' and starts to get thinner...).
Seriously, it would be cheaper for you to buy a set of 5-1/4 Infinity co-axials than to pay to ship these across the atlantic!
Seriously, it would be cheaper for you to buy a set of 5-1/4 Infinity co-axials than to pay to ship these across the atlantic!
#27
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Just installed a set of Infinity 6.5" 6030cs Reference Speakers and they work like a charm. Only downside was that although the hole will accept the 6.5" models, the "mid speaker shield" doesn't work with them and I had to chuck 'em. I tried cutting out the sections that prevented the speaker from fitting in, but in the end was too much effort and I couldn't figure it out. A great writeup as it got me 95% of the way there!!!
#29
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Just installed a set of Infinity 6.5" 6030cs Reference Speakers and they work like a charm. Only downside was that although the hole will accept the 6.5" models, the "mid speaker shield" doesn't work with them and I had to chuck 'em. I tried cutting out the sections that prevented the speaker from fitting in, but in the end was too much effort and I couldn't figure it out. A great writeup as it got me 95% of the way there!!!
#30
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Yes, chucked the shields, not the speakers!
The 6030cs' were pretty hard to find as it was without ordering them online. I figured if they didn't fit, I could return them easily to a B&M store and not have to pay return shipping. Turns out I didn't need to. Dunno about the 6530cs. For the rears, I plan on getting some Infinity 6x9s based on a thread I'd seen here on RL, but those will have to wait for another day and another paycheck.
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