ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Guys, just finished cleaning the engine compartment. Took some mild degreaser, sprayed it on the valve covers, and around the fender mounted oil filter, all around the hoses etc.,....just all around the engine on top. Then flushed it all out with water thru a common water gun. Started just fine, went on a drive in HOT 98deg. weather. Engine now dry, but when I turned her off I noted the fuel pump still running, even tho engine off, keys in my pocket.

Then, fuel pump would go on for a few seconds, then off again. thought it was a glitch...maybe some water somewhere making an unauthorized connection. then my wife comes in screaming my Porsche is leaking fuel all over the garage floor. Gas fumes everywhere!! Look under my car and it's leaking from right under the foreward-most right sided valve cover. about 6-8inches in front of the fuel filter....just don't know exactly from where....and damn fuel pump still pumping! disconncted the battery and leak stopped.

Now where do I go? Any ideas where there would be a weak part here?? I did run my hand under the fuel filter and near the area, but no wet parts felt.

Any ideas....anyone??

Jaime

dfinnegan

Could be a bad relay for the fuel pump.

Wachuko

I tend to agree with the relay being the culprit of the fuel pump running... Sorry I can't be of much more help... but I suggest checking the oil in case some fuel reach it... maybe time for an oil change.

Indycam

I pulled up to a stop and smelt raw gas , hoping it was not my car I popped open the door and looked under my car . My car was peeing gas . It turned out to be a short piece of hose behind the intake system had turn hard and split open .
The rubber hose is a fuel supply hose connected to the metal hose that goes to the fuel filter .

Colin 90 C2

is it leaking from the engine side or from the body side?

If it is from the engine side, it may be a loose or broken connection at the fuel rail, or the hoses that connect between the fuel rails and the fuel pressure regulator. BTW, I had to replace my FPR because the diaphragm burst and it was feeding way too much raw fuel into the rails. If this happens and the hose either bursts or comes loose, you will get a lot of fuel all over the rear of the engine.

If it is from the body side, check the connections and lines forward of the fuel filter. Maybe a loosened connection from your TT conversion

At any rate, it sounds like there is something wrong with your dme relay circuitry. Your pump should not be running without the key.

Good luck.
Colin

Good

jeffnudd

First thing i would be doing is checking fuel pressure reg and fuel lines like colin said, its possible you might have perished rubber fuel lines in the engine bay somewhere, there is no way that the fuel pump would run on its own like that unless there was a leak, as soon as you turn the ignition key the pump primes the fuel system ready to start, but if there is a leak the system would still carry on priming to the pressure it needs. sometimes metal pipes crack with fatigue especially around joints that have been pressed the joint to fuel filter etc.
There is a panel under the car on the left hand side front floor pan where the fuel pump is covered, then work your way back, you might have knocked a fuel line underneath (maybe?) but for god sake DO NOT start it untill its sorted, with that hot exhaust back there it wont be long untill you Porsche is up in flames along with the garage and house.
I will have a look at mine tomorrow for you and see if i can find any weak points in the fuel system for you to check.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Thanks guys for the info. Please keep it coming, found out some more today:

Apparently, the stuck fuel injector pumped a ****load of gas into the combustion chamber. Fuel trickled out both intake and exhaust valves. Had fuel/oil mix in the crankcase, as well as in the exhaust!! Engine hydralocked, had to remove all spark plugs and flush out the cylinders. Poured fresh oil and crancked the engine (pulled fuel pump fuse, and undid the hot wire to the coil).

Now, Here's the culprit:

I discovered the #6 fuel injector connector to be Hot/alive even tho ignition is off!!!! In addition, when the other 5 connectors are pulled off and tested for aliveness, there is electricity, but not enough to trigger their respective injector. When the #6 injector is pulled off, then all the other 5 injectors become dead.

Also, when the #6 connector is connected to the injector, it seems to call the fuel pump to operate and pour fuel (remember, all this even tho ignition is off!!). When the connector is disconnected, the fuel pump stops. So, obviously there's a short allowing full electricity to the #6 injector. As far as I understand, when the ignition is off, everything in the engine compartment should be dead.....right??

So, Wher's the relay for the fuel injectors?? Any tips/suggestions as to how to track down the short??

Jaime

Wachuko

Have you replaced the Fuel Pump Relay? Start there. A bad relay will allow current to the pump even if the ignition is off... then continue with the troubleshooting.

I am glad you took a look at the oil...

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Jaime, where's the fuel pump relay?? The fuse box in the bulkhead only has fuse to the fuel pump. also, the other relays there seem to be for other than the fuel pump relay. Is the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment??

Anybody??

Jaime

JasonAndreas

The DME relay is the fuel pump relay.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Thanks Jason!!!

Guess I'll go straight to the DME harness and push my light tester to see if it's a short in the harness or a DME problem?? I tend to think it's a short somewhere in the engine compartment as all happened after a water washdown.

Jaime

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Ok, there is a connector in the engine compartment relay box. from the bottom of this box is a ribbed, rubber sleve which contains the harness to the injectors. I disconnected the connector in the relay box to isolate the problem area. Turns out the problem is somewhere between the engine relay box and the injector. The harness from the box to the DME is dead as it should be with the ignition off. So, the Brown/blue stiped wire to the #6 injector is getting crossed up with 12V in the harness somewhere. This is just god-awful as the brown/color wire should be ground!!!

Going to have to do some surgery to the ribbed sleeve to expose all wires and see whrere the problem is.

Jaime

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Pathology report: Guys, you can see from the picture that infact my problem was bad wires. Probably due to heat and vibration. All the black cross hairs are wire rubber fractures exposing the inner wire. The big red one is always hot/alive, so when I washed my engine, water penetrated this bend area and by proximity passed electricity to the adjacent wires. The brown/blue wire just under the fat red one (alive) is the culprit wire controlling #6 injector which continued to pump gallons of gas into combustion chamber, overflowed into exhaust and intake valves.....into exhaust and into crank case. This hydrolocked my engine and probably ruined my turbos too. What luck huh??

Colin 90 C2

Turbos may still be ok. Hopefully the oil seal held out and the bearings are good. If not, fairly straightforward to have bearings replaced.
As for the hydrolock condition, of course drain everything out and replace with fresh oil, probably a couple times, and hand crank the engine.
Hopefully you did not try to start the engine while it was hydrolocked.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Colin

Heirsh

whoa! Good job tracking that culprit down. thats a good advertisement for a kill switch actually. Ah my to-do list just got longer.