cccscotland

Hi all, am busy changing the clutch on my 1990 C4. Using Garrett's list of how to drop the engine and box - invaluable stuff, thanks a lot! - I've successfully managed to remove the engine and box from the car. Reading the posts it seems the way to get the release arm out of the way so you can separate the engine and box is to screw a long bolt into the shaft that the release arm pivots on, and pull out the shaft.

If I'm right with the theory above, the bad news is that the shaft seems to be seized in there. I've used copious amount of release spray, freeze spray, I've hammered it, and used mole grips and a pry bar to try and unseat the bugger, but it's not for moving. I had the same problem with the longitudinal slave - it was seized in and needed a lot of hammering to break it free. I'm not sure I've got that luxury with this one....

Firstly am I doing the right thing in my proposed method of freeing the relase arm? If so has anyone else experienced this? Also, I'm fairly sure the clutch problem was caused by oil contamination out of the breather on top of the tranny. As you look at the rear of the engine there are 3 big holes in the side of the bellhousing. Are they supposed to be covered by any sort of rubber bungs? The absence of these may expain the contamination...

cheers in advance for any help,
matt

KirkF

The oil contamination may have come from your oil pressure sensor on top of the motor. That was where mine leaked, with the same results. Oil seeps between the engine and transmission joint onto the flywheel.

Regarding the normal removal of a clutch operating shaft, I think I have the perfect picture. See below.

if you can't get it to pull out try putting a socket beside the shaft, hook a prybar under the bolt head and lever against the socket.

When your transmission is apart replace all components of the operating shaft.

Kirk

1990+ Porsche 964 Carerra 2/4 Clutch Parts
PART # DESCRIPTION #
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
999 113 426 41 rear main seal 1
964 114 012 02 Two - Mass Flywheel 1
999 119 017 01 cheese-hd screw (flywheel bolt) M10x1.25x62 9
999 052 169 00 ball bearing 15x50x11 1
950 114 283 00 spring washer 1
950 114 281 00 washer 1
950 116 086 06 clutch release fork 1
950 116 715 01 clutch fork bush 2
964-116-028-90 pressure plate 1
964 116 014 62 clutch disc 1
950-116-080-08 release bearing 1
964 114 143 02 starter ring 1
999 510 015 02 PP Bolts (cheese-hd. Screw M8*40) 9
950 116 813 06 clutch guide tube 1
900 270 055 02 screw M6 x 14 2
950 116 710 04 operating shaft 1
999 113 418 40 operating shaft gasket 2
999 201 339 00 operating shaft bush 1
999 201 365 00 operating shaft bush 1
950 116 725 00 operating shaft cover 1
000 043 024 00 Olista Longtime 3EP 1

viperbob

Yes that is similar to what I do when they are stuck. Get a longer bolt that allows the head to stick out past the outer part of the transmission. Now you can use prybars, and other bits to try and get it out. Ususally just a little leverage will pop it out even when they are rather old and grungy....

Wachuko

Ballpark figure of what all that costs?? Last clutch work that was done to my car I was not aware of the change in some of the parts... so I want to start buying everything for the next one.

Thank you!!

JasonAndreas

For the 996s Porsche now recommends Optimoly MPO (999-917-788-00) for lubricating the guide tube and Olista Longtime 3EP for everything else.

KirkF

Prices in USD

PART # DESCRIPTION # EACH TOTAL

999 113 426 41 rear main seal 1
964 114 012 02 Two - Mass Flywheel 1 $803.43 $803.43
999 119 017 01 cheese-hd screw (flywheel bolt) M10x1.25x62 9 $2.60 $23.40
999 052 169 00 ball bearing 15x50x11 1 $24.87 $24.87
950 114 283 00 spring washer 1 $3.21 $3.21
950 114 281 00 washer 1 $5.41 $5.41
950 116 086 06 clutch release fork 1 $88.50 $88.50
950 116 715 01 clutch fork bush 2 $1.50 $3.00
964-116-028-90 pressure plate 1 $378.53 $378.53
964 116 014 62 clutch disc 1 $151.04 $151.04
950 116 080 08 release bearing 1 $125.58 $125.58
964 114 143 02 starter ring 1 $131.16 $131.16
999 510 015 02 PP Bolts (cheese-hd. Screw M8*40) 9 $0.72 $6.48
950 116 813 06 clutch guide tube 1 $54.80 $54.80
900 270 055 02 screw M6 x 14 2 $0.28 $0.56
950 116 710 04 operating shaft 1 $34.74 $34.74
999 113 418 40 operating shaft gasket 2 $0.64 $1.28
999 201 339 00 operating shaft bush 1 $7.98 $7.98
999 201 365 00 operating shaft bush 1 $2.63 $2.63
950 116 725 00 operating shaft cover 1 $0.51 $0.51
000 043 024 00 Olista Longtime 3EP 1 $10.42 $10.42

(probably be easier to read this if it was lined up a little better, but you get the idea. Last 2 numbers are the individual price, and total price in quantity)

Kirk

LastAirCooled

$1857.53 according to my math. Yikes! This is for a DIY clutch? Even if that's Canadian it's still a lot. I thought you could have it done professionally for not much more than that.

JasonAndreas

That figure $$$ includes a dual-mass flywheel ($803.43USD) which most people don't need to replace. You also don't usually have to replace the guide tube or the release fork, etc.

KirkF

All prices in USD, for factory porsche parts, at the best price I could find them.

As Jason says most people don't have to replace the flywheel. In my case I did. Its also unlikely you would need a new starter ring.

I have to disagree about the clutch guide tube and release fork though, these parts have been updated by porsche, so I would replace them.

Kirk
p.s. Doesn't look much like $1900 usd does it?

JasonAndreas

Unless your engine serial number is less than 62P 02375 which I keep forgetting is just about everybody.

KirkF

Thats funny, after I sent that post I thought I should probably add the "If your car doesn't already have the newer parts"

Thats the problem with owning an '89, EVERYTHING is an update for me!

Kirk

JasonAndreas

Any news about getting your stuff back from the machine shop?

Another option would be to fashion a puller from your "extracting" bolt, a bunch of washers, a nut and a M17'ish socket (I'm not sure on the exact socket size).

There is one soft plastic cover for the top opening, part #950-301-151-01.

KirkF

As long as we are on this topic:

There was a great post that showed the spots you are supposed to lube the clutch parts with the optimoly. I think it even had pictures and arrows (Maybe by you Jason?) I spent about an hour looking but I can't find it. (Should have bookmarked it at the time)

Does anybody know where that post is hiding?

I was thinking I might as well press my flywheel pilot bearing in and install my throwout bearing on the pressure plate this weekend. And then post some pics, since its going to be a relevant topic for a couple of other people as well. So any good links to previous posts would be well timed!

Kirk
Oh ya -update on my rebuild-
My parts are still at the machine shop. The last word was that a previous shop had pressed copper sleeves into the valve guides, instead of replacing the valve guides. They apparently broke two of the guide bosses, so two of the heads are garbage. All the valve are junk as well. I haven't heard anything about when they will be back or how much $$ yet. I have been contenting myself with cleaning off oily parts in the varsol bath in the mean time.

Eric Kessel

Jason,
Any idea on a locally available Optimoly MPO replacement?

JasonAndreas

How soon do you need some? I'm waiting on some parts from Germany (2 more weeks possibly) and as soon as those arrive I will have a tube of MPO paste shipped with them. If you can wait until than you are more than welcome to use mine.