Corner balancing. Some questions.
#1
Skippy
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Corner balancing. Some questions.
After I had my suspension changed earlier this year I went to my usual PC for an allignment and eventual corner balancing. After a discussion with the mechanic we decided to first do an allignment and a height setting of the car. When asked about corner balancing the mechanic replied that this could be done but would be overkill on a purely road going car. By setting the height precisely he claimed to have a good set-up. After finishing his work he took the car for a drive and confirmed that all seemed ok. I had/have the same feeling.
I have two questions now on this issue.
First: The WSM states in volume 4 that "with correct ride level height the wheel load differences will be within permissable tolerances". Further fine tuning with scales can be done but the above statement stands. What is your opinion on this?
Second: When a customer took delivery of a new 964, was his car then corner balanced? I don't think so but could be wrong. Any idea's on this?
Cheers.
I have two questions now on this issue.
First: The WSM states in volume 4 that "with correct ride level height the wheel load differences will be within permissable tolerances". Further fine tuning with scales can be done but the above statement stands. What is your opinion on this?
Second: When a customer took delivery of a new 964, was his car then corner balanced? I don't think so but could be wrong. Any idea's on this?
Cheers.
#2
#3
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When I asked about corner balancing my car after an alignment, my mechanic told me the same thing. Based on what I have read here though, P-cars are very sensitive to a correct suspension/geomtry setup so a corner balance is worth-while on a road-only car too.
MArc
MArc
#4
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Having played around with alignments, ride heights and corner balancing on track cars for several years - I agree with the mechanics. As long as the car sits level (side to side), and the ride height looks good (by measurement), I dont think there is any benefit of corner balancing a car for street use only.
#6
Rennlist Member
From what I have gathered in my reading and searching, where the ride height is measured can also play a part in getting close without corner balance.
The top/inside edge of the fender well (wheel arches) is used by some while the shop manual calls for suspension point under the car.
If using the fender well, if the body panel is off (some have said it can be off by over 1/2") then you can be pretty far off in weight balance.
As for your 2nd question Kris, I have wondered that too.
The top/inside edge of the fender well (wheel arches) is used by some while the shop manual calls for suspension point under the car.
If using the fender well, if the body panel is off (some have said it can be off by over 1/2") then you can be pretty far off in weight balance.
As for your 2nd question Kris, I have wondered that too.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Exactly the point I attempted to make Jeremy, thanks for saying more clearly. Early in my searches I ran accross posts here talking about just that. Confused the heck out of me at first... took a while for me to sort out the real deal. Then one day I thought, hey! I'll bet the factory manual covers this. duh.
#10
Skippy
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Corner balance can be done at Penders in Grace Hologne.
#11
I can tell you when they did the alignment/cb after my suspension swap, the initial settings were way off!
They were:
670 | 630
=====
940 | 910
We ended at:
610 | 616
======
953 | 956
you decide if it's worth it.
They were:
670 | 630
=====
940 | 910
We ended at:
610 | 616
======
953 | 956
you decide if it's worth it.
#13
so far so good
they had to made 8 adjustments to get it that close. The weights were with a 180# driver in the seat. Guess I need to lose a few to really get it right.
#14
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by hawk911
I can tell you when they did the alignment/cb after my suspension swap, the initial settings were way off!
They were:
670 | 630
=====
940 | 910
We ended at:
610 | 616
======
953 | 956
you decide if it's worth it.
They were:
670 | 630
=====
940 | 910
We ended at:
610 | 616
======
953 | 956
you decide if it's worth it.
Your diagonals were only off by 10 lbs before starting and the shop played around until they got the diagonals within 3 lbs. But the total weight of the car was 3150 before and 3135 after. So there is at least 15 lbs of error in the scales, so the 3-10 lbs of difference (before and after) in diagonals are within the margin of error of the scales (?).
Your original numbers are good for a corner balanced car, and amazing for a car that just had the suspension swaped out.
#15
Originally Posted by Oddjob
The critical weights when corner balancing are the diagonals. You want to match the weights of the left front/right rear with the right front/left rear.
Your diagonals were only off by 10 lbs before starting and the shop played around until they got the diagonals within 3 lbs. But the total weight of the car was 3150 before and 3135 after. So there is at least 15 lbs of error in the scales, so the 3-10 lbs of difference (before and after) in diagonals are within the margin of error of the scales (?).
Your original numbers are good for a corner balanced car, and amazing for a car that just had the suspension swaped out.
Your diagonals were only off by 10 lbs before starting and the shop played around until they got the diagonals within 3 lbs. But the total weight of the car was 3150 before and 3135 after. So there is at least 15 lbs of error in the scales, so the 3-10 lbs of difference (before and after) in diagonals are within the margin of error of the scales (?).
Your original numbers are good for a corner balanced car, and amazing for a car that just had the suspension swaped out.