Euromagination

Good question. I was thinking of that last night. Anyone know this?

I am also wondering if there is a "plug" for the female-end (engine bay-end) of that wiring harness since the blower motor won't be plugged in there anymore???



Garrett, you're definitely right about the weight. I made a comment about Pelican's "slight exaggeration" on the 993 boards because I posted this same problem here in hopes of more help. I weighed the entire blower motor assembly myself and it was 9 pounds on my scale. I guess you need to recalibrate your scale, huh? jk...


JasonAndreas, I ordered the Carbon Fiber bypass tube that is pictured above, but it won't be here until next week so I planned on putting the blower assembly on (minus the motor itself) until then; just as you suggested. Thanks for the confirmation that it will be a preview of what I will get with the bypass.

Hopefully it will work out well. I think it might. Looks cool and is MUCH more simple, too! I love simplicity...

Thanks everyone. I'll tell you all how it works out next week.

-Harry

garrett376

To do it right you need to give the blower motor, AND temp sensor some resistance to keep the electronics happy. I did a post on this somewhere...

garrett376

Here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/218299-rear-heater-motor-bypass-with-fancy-resistors.html

garrett376

Hah! I don't even own a scale - this is purely by feel! Not bad, eh? 1lb off!!!

Euromagination

Thanks for that. I will order these online somewhere.

That said, I just went on a drive without the blower motor installed in the casing. It seemed there was ZERO flow coming from the car except for when I was going faster than 30 mph. ??? I can understand a reduction, but there is now zero flow when there are two other blower motors up front... ???

Is this because i dont have the motor hooked up? The broken circuit there is making it so none of the blowers work?

Thnx. Never a dull moment for me and any of my cars

-Harry

Euromagination

Just FYI...

The resistors in the thread that garrett made and referred to above have the following part numbers:

***15W 50 ohm 1% ----> Mouser P/N: 284-HS15-50F ----> (No Mfg. P/N listed)----> Arcol 15W aluminum housed wirewound resistor

***2W 18K ohm ----> Mouser P/N: 262-18K ----> Mfg. P/N: MOR02WJ0183B00 ----> Xicon Std. Size 2W metal oxide resistor

Mouser Electronics----> http://www.mouser.com

And thanks again garrett...

-Harry

dfinnegan

Doesn't the blower run to dump heat off the engine into the rear wheel wells when the engine gets really hot?

Is it okay to take away this cooling funcationality?

Euromagination

i haven't done any of my own experiments or anything yet, but from what i've seen while researching, the general consensus is that it's definitely okay to run these. the motor will just run only slightly hotter in some situations from what i've read.

i plan on updating this thread with a summary of what i think about the bypass in a couple of weeks.

here's another great link:
http://tech.rennlist.com/911/pdf/add...ipeInstall.pdf

And an FAQ list is on this page (halfway down, right before the pictures):
http://www.rennlight.com/rstube/index.html

JasonAndreas

Yes

I also question the wisdom of the CUP blower on a daily driver. Porsche would not have gone to the expense of adding the rear blower motor and all the controlling electronics if there wasn't a very good reason. This summer use your Bosch Hammer to read the temperature sensor and see what you get.

Eric Kessel

Don't bother with a used motor off E-Bay, it's a crap shoot if it will be in better shape than what you've got. Vertex (I believe they are a rennlist sponsor) sells the bare motor for around $100. It's not hard to install. I tried two used blowers off E-Bay before finding out about this. If there are any questions about swapping the motors, let me know. There was a post detailing the DIY procedure, but I can't seem to find it now.......

(I just checked, and they show it as not currently available...... it's Vertex SKU # 0130111145, if you feel like calling them)