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Well, I finally got the outer sealing felt that I was waiting for so put the new power window regulator back in the driver's door last night.
I also bought a new sealing plastic sheet for the inside of the door (see below) as the old one got torn taking it off.
When I applied the new plastic sheet though, it seems that some of the glue/sealant has dried and is not very sticky so the new plastic is not sticking or sealing as well as it should. I'd like it to stick well as I don't want a car full of water....
Any ideas what I can use to re-stick the plastic sheet inside the door? I need a glue that stays sticky so that the plastic can be removed in the future if needed. I thought of using rubber cement but wondered if other's had better ideas.
Marc,..
For the same area and reasons I used a two sided glued tape made by "PLASTO". Apply and push the interior grey rubber tape edge where needed to the door’s surface and peel away the protective white plastic skin from the exterior grey rubber tape edge, and then of course lay your new clear Porsche protective sheeting to it. Provides a, semi-permanent sealing bind in rubber... At the same time, before the clear Porsche protective sheeting, while everything was cleaned and assessable I sprayed a protective film of humidity repelling clear spray made by "BRENER", to this general area to help avoid the one day, just may come,. Rust... I also changed the upper window metal/fabric seal to avoid leaks, that get to the speaker's cones, etc...
Yes, I did change the upper metal/fabric (felt) seal as it was torn. I think that was what allowed water in and rusted the window channel (which I replaced). The same felt on the other side looks ok but I'll change it next time I have the passender door apart.
I coated what I could with Krown liquid undercoat inside the door too - but I saw no rust anywhere else.
Thought I'd revive this thread...does anyone have any more advice on replacing the plastic sheeting? Can you just get the sheeting from Home Depot or the like? Any easily available tapes/glues to use?
I pulled mine off a while ago to weld up the door stay area on the driver's side. The sheeting looked like crap before, and when I stuck it back on afterwards I didn't get a great seal, which has bothered me. This weekend I plan to replace the front speakers/crossovers so thought I would replace the sheeting while I'm at it.
Thanks....I didn't realize that the moisture barrier was an actual "part". I'll wander over to the dealer at lunch and see how much they are charging...
I made 2 new door membranes, cost nothing.
Used plastic, cut to shape and stuck on with 3m doublesided tape.
Without the membrane the panel gets damp, and sum moisture gets in the car.
Another option if you are not concerned with weight is to use a sound deadening material like dynamat. Of course a door of dynamat weights 5-10 pounds.
Back when I was a mgmt consultant, I did a lot of work around pricing of commodity polyolefins and the associated "value generation" that occurred when someone turned a a pound of plastic into something useful.
As it turns out, I need to go back and update my presentations, for I discovered today that Porsche leads the world in converting low-margin plastic sheeting into a high-margin product.
The price of the moisture barrier at the dealer? FIFTY-THREE DOLLARS for the driver's side and FIFTY-SEVEN DOLLARS for the passenger side.
Somewhat shaken, I decided not to ask how much the GT3 was, and, yes, I will be stopping by Home Depot on the way home to compare prices.
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