Help with 964 Spacers
#1
Help with 964 Spacers
I know this has been asked before and I read the past messages. I just have to ask again to make sure I understand my options.
I want to add spacers to my ’93 C2 and would like to know what is the maximum size I can use and still have at least 8 turns on the lug nuts? I want to stay away from adding spacers that come with bolts and lug nuts. I was told they put too much stress on the bearings.
I am running stock Cup wheels on 205/50/17 fronts and 255/40/17 rears. I am having it lowered this week with Bilstein shocks/struts and HR springs.
Thanks…
I want to add spacers to my ’93 C2 and would like to know what is the maximum size I can use and still have at least 8 turns on the lug nuts? I want to stay away from adding spacers that come with bolts and lug nuts. I was told they put too much stress on the bearings.
I am running stock Cup wheels on 205/50/17 fronts and 255/40/17 rears. I am having it lowered this week with Bilstein shocks/struts and HR springs.
Thanks…
#3
Ron,
I assume you have the stock wheel studs, and you don't want to put longer studs on, right? In that case, you're limited to around 3-4mm spacers. You can test this yourself by buying some washers of various thicknesses to see more exactly how far you can push it out, and still retain enough to safely tighten the lug nuts.
If you want to use a larger spacer, and you don't want to go with spacers that have imbedded studs, then you need to replace them with longer studs to increase the length. They come in a variety of sizes, and aren't tough to replace. As I recall, stock size is 45mm, so you could go 50 or 52mm, or larger, as needed.
I assume you have the stock wheel studs, and you don't want to put longer studs on, right? In that case, you're limited to around 3-4mm spacers. You can test this yourself by buying some washers of various thicknesses to see more exactly how far you can push it out, and still retain enough to safely tighten the lug nuts.
If you want to use a larger spacer, and you don't want to go with spacers that have imbedded studs, then you need to replace them with longer studs to increase the length. They come in a variety of sizes, and aren't tough to replace. As I recall, stock size is 45mm, so you could go 50 or 52mm, or larger, as needed.
#4
I didn't need spacers until I went with 225/275 tires. A 3 mm spacer was all that's needed up front and I had a 6-8 mm in the back, but went to longer studs too.
Are you planning to use the stock aluminum lugs or are you switching to the open steel lugs? Obviously it's not a big deal to switch to longer studs with the steel lugs, even if they are not really required. It's not a problem to have some extra room with the open lug nuts. Now the closed lug nuts become an issue...
Are you planning to use the stock aluminum lugs or are you switching to the open steel lugs? Obviously it's not a big deal to switch to longer studs with the steel lugs, even if they are not really required. It's not a problem to have some extra room with the open lug nuts. Now the closed lug nuts become an issue...
#5
Jim, Front offset is 55 and rear is 52.
Bill, thanks for the info. I few questions and yes, I am a little slow in grasping all of this, sorry.
3-4mm spacers don't seem enough to make a difference...that's about .15 inches, correct? I would like to widen the tire trackwithout compromising driveability and safety.
If I go with replacing the stock studs for longer ones, what size spacer can I go to without creating problems? What are the most common spacer sizes(if there is such a thing)?
Last question to everyone, where and what kind of spacers do you recommend? If I go with longer studs. Links would be nice.
Thanks
Bill, thanks for the info. I few questions and yes, I am a little slow in grasping all of this, sorry.
3-4mm spacers don't seem enough to make a difference...that's about .15 inches, correct? I would like to widen the tire trackwithout compromising driveability and safety.
If I go with replacing the stock studs for longer ones, what size spacer can I go to without creating problems? What are the most common spacer sizes(if there is such a thing)?
Last question to everyone, where and what kind of spacers do you recommend? If I go with longer studs. Links would be nice.
Thanks
Last edited by ronone10; 01-30-2006 at 11:50 PM.
#7
I am running OEM 17" C2 Turbo wheels 55mm offsets all around, with stock suspension (for now), and I have 6mm spacers installed on all 4 corners. They push the wheels out enough to notice the difference, but not so much as to need replacement studs. BTW, I checked fitment using the open steel lugs - I am about 4 turns or threads short of having the studs completely threaded on the lugs. I am fine with that for the street, since I check the lug torque every few weeks, but I will remove the spacers for track days. I switch to track wheels/tires anyway, so I don't see this as an inconvenience.
I wouldn't be comfortable using anything thicker than 6mm with the particular wheels I am running.
I wouldn't be comfortable using anything thicker than 6mm with the particular wheels I am running.
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#8
I would never run with less than full threading on open lug nuts, but that's my opinion. The benefit of saving $20 to not add new studs is not worth the risk (to me) of the problems if a nut or two come loose. I've seen the effect of a wheel run just a couple miles on the street with lugs that were or came loose. It meant a new hub, bearings, studs and a new wheel.
Rather than adding a spacer to make it look better, I'd think wider tires will accomplish better looks and a tad better grip. Rather than 205/255 tires, run 225/275 tires. They fit and might give the look you want.
Rather than adding a spacer to make it look better, I'd think wider tires will accomplish better looks and a tad better grip. Rather than 205/255 tires, run 225/275 tires. They fit and might give the look you want.
#9
Tom (both of you)
Thanks for the suggestions and cautions. I didn't think to look at larger tires (cost issue) but will visit this some more.
Ok, little off of the main topic, but how difficult is it to remove the studs? Any 'how to links' and photos?
Thanks...
Thanks for the suggestions and cautions. I didn't think to look at larger tires (cost issue) but will visit this some more.
Ok, little off of the main topic, but how difficult is it to remove the studs? Any 'how to links' and photos?
Thanks...
#11
Performance products (no affiliation) has spacers, or eBay.
Open lugs allow you to see the lug thru the top of the lug, rather than a "closed" lug which has a cap over the end to make it pretty.
Not sure on the 3rd question, but I also need to know before I order the new tires.
Open lugs allow you to see the lug thru the top of the lug, rather than a "closed" lug which has a cap over the end to make it pretty.
Not sure on the 3rd question, but I also need to know before I order the new tires.
#13
The ability to go to 225 up front or 275 on the back depends on the tires (not all 225 or 275 are the same width, MPSC are notably larger than others) and your car. Our cars have variability in their construction and what fits well on one car may not fit (it may rub) on another. The RS ride height should make it easier to fit, not more difficult as the lower ride height allows more camber to be added. Rolled fenders may be needed too. My car had very minor rubbing with 225/275 until I added some spacers as indicated above. For the back I had longer studs added.
To change studs you need to press them out of the hub and add the new ones. I'm told that banging on them with a hammer is NOT the right way to remove them. I let the shop do the change.
Look here for the lug nut comparison. Your standard lug nut is closed. Scroll down to the bottom and look at the steel nut used for the track and it's "open". Steel are stronger and allow a visual assessment of engagement. I've seen some friends very unhappy when one of the aluminum closed ones sheared off when trying to change/check tires at the track.
To change studs you need to press them out of the hub and add the new ones. I'm told that banging on them with a hammer is NOT the right way to remove them. I let the shop do the change.
Look here for the lug nut comparison. Your standard lug nut is closed. Scroll down to the bottom and look at the steel nut used for the track and it's "open". Steel are stronger and allow a visual assessment of engagement. I've seen some friends very unhappy when one of the aluminum closed ones sheared off when trying to change/check tires at the track.
#14
My car is getting lowered this week. I have asked the shop to measure the space where I want to tire to sit after it gets lowered. I will know then approximately the size spacer I need.
Pressing off the studs sounds easy but I am sure after 12 years of heat, cold and rain they are rusted tight. I may ask the shop to see if they can push a couple of studs out.
I looked at Pelican Parts and they sell 1/4", 1", 1.5" spacers that come with the imbedded studs and open lug nuts. In mm, they are 6.5, 25 and 38mm. I orginally said I didn't want to go this route because of the potential wear on the bearings. Any thoughts about using these? This is a daily car and I have no plans to track it.
Thanks...
Pressing off the studs sounds easy but I am sure after 12 years of heat, cold and rain they are rusted tight. I may ask the shop to see if they can push a couple of studs out.
I looked at Pelican Parts and they sell 1/4", 1", 1.5" spacers that come with the imbedded studs and open lug nuts. In mm, they are 6.5, 25 and 38mm. I orginally said I didn't want to go this route because of the potential wear on the bearings. Any thoughts about using these? This is a daily car and I have no plans to track it.
Thanks...
Last edited by ronone10; 01-31-2006 at 04:38 PM.
#15
I've run 3 964 RSs with bolt on 15mm spacers on both the front and rear axles. Sorry but this extra wear on wheel bearings is a myth IMHO. IIRC the 964 C4 Celebration (Turbo bodied but C2/C4 suspension) cars used the Cup 1 wheels with a different offset to ensure the wheels filled the fenders out. I can't see any difference in running a 9" wide rear wheel 15mm further out by using a spacer, or the manufacturer casting a thicker pad into the wheel hub.
The 964 3.8 RS (again Turbo body) ran 11"x 18" wheels on the rear (with an ET of 5 !!) on the same hubs/ suspension.
I beleive Porsche themselves used to list these types of spacers for the early 3.2/ SC cars. I really think this is another "urban myth" But I'm willing to be told differently !!
The 964 3.8 RS (again Turbo body) ran 11"x 18" wheels on the rear (with an ET of 5 !!) on the same hubs/ suspension.
I beleive Porsche themselves used to list these types of spacers for the early 3.2/ SC cars. I really think this is another "urban myth" But I'm willing to be told differently !!