dougn

edit: these initial posts are off track

well i was messing around with my resonance valve and now my car wont run. i just reached back there to see if i could feel it and to see where it was and how it operated and i did something but i can't figure it out. i operated it by hand to see if it was free and sucked on the vaccum line to see if i could open it and all was well. now it throws fits and opens and shuts during idle...killing the engine and making the car un-drivable.

if i try to hold it shut i can keep the car running but it "spasms" for lack of a better term like something else besides the vaccum is pushing it open. it wants to open with a lot of force

i may have done something opening it by hand.... although it still seems to operate correctly when i suck on the vaccum line

hawk911

did you pop a vaccum line that isn't back on, or maybe an electrical connection? grab a mirror and have a look

JasonAndreas

What happens when you disconnect the electrical connector from the resonance flap solenoid? (circled in red)

dougn

it still freaks out

dougn

it seems like the only thing that is supposed to open that valve is the vaccum solinoid which is activated electrically by the vaccum switch right?

JasonAndreas

There is nothing else connected to it.

dougn

ok something else is going on. like the valve is being opened by some weird pressure pulses from the inside. as i think about it....it runs fine in between the times it dies...and it dies like the fuel is being cut off. i'm going to reset the computer

dougn

re-set the ECU....starts and idles fine. in fact it starts and idles like it did before i chipped it ....which means it hunts around a little when it's cold

dougn

so the valve was being disturbed from the inside. whatever was going on was causing weird internal pressure pulses that were operating the valve

dougn

well it started and acted ok but when i went for a test drive it began acting up again after about a mile. now if it's like before it progressively gets worse the longer it runs

dougn

as is often the case (murphy's law) this may have nothing to do with the fact i was messing around. the only other thing i did (prior to these symptoms) was pull the primary coil wire to make sure the secondary was working

springer3

I agree the resonance flap can't cause the symptoms you describe. I can't imagine the flap position affects the idle at all. There is almost no air flow at idle. Is it possible you created a vacuum leak when operating the valve? Did you pull the high voltage (fat) wire or something on the low voltage/control side to test the ignition?

dougn

i pulled the coil wire off the primary distributor.

i jumpered the R41 relay between pins 30 and 87b as described in Adrian's book and it wont start at all. i can hear the fuel pump when i do this

Indycam

Hiya Dougn
Its said to be bad form to pull the coil wire as a test . You should pull the wires from the switch . If it was mine , I would check all the ingnition parts to start .

Indycam

The book has a mistake on the jumper .