Suspension changes
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rhode Island, USA
Suspension changes
For those that have done the suspension changes yourselves, did you use a spring compressor tool to remove and reinstall the springs?
If not, how did you do it safely?
If not, how did you do it safely?
Race Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,951
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
Jeremy, we did not use a compressor. Simply lay the spring on the ground, with the bottom of the assembly pointing away from important objects. We used an air wrench, and simply undid the lock nut. The spring did not going flying, only moved a few inches. You could simply use your own body weight to push the top collar down and take the pressure off the nut, as we did to reinstall the nut. You'll spend about 1/5 less time doing it this way.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,298
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From: St. Louis
Safety first guys. I'm not going to criticize anyone for working on their cars, but since many auto parts stores will either lend you the compressor for free with a deposit or a small fee, I say, better safe than sorry.
Technical Guru
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Joined: May 2002
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From: USVI
I'm with craig, Autozone rents a spring compressor/tensioner and all they require is a 100% refundable deposit. Every year you read about someone impaling themselves during a spring swap DIY, why take the chance? And when you guys tighten everything back up remember that all the torque specifications are for wet (coated with Optimoly HT & Optimoly TA) threads. For instance the top lock nut is only tightened to 43 ft.lbs but the threads should be coated with Optimoly HT or the like (copper grease).
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rhode Island, USA
Help needed
Jimq and I are going to change our suspensions tomorrow.
I am looking thru the Bentley tech manual, and it only lists the diameter of the metric bolds required to be replaced when removing and replacing. Can someone please tell me how long each bolt listed below is?
Would replacing them with 316 stainless be a concern?
I am looking thru the Bentley tech manual, and it only lists the diameter of the metric bolds required to be replaced when removing and replacing. Can someone please tell me how long each bolt listed below is?
Would replacing them with 316 stainless be a concern?
- M14 bolt that connects bottom of rear suspension to trailing arm
- M12 bolt that attaches bottom of front suspension to wheel bearing carrier
Technical Guru
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From: USVI
Optimoly HT is a high temperature copper based anti-seize and Optimoly TA is an aluminum based version? The workshop manuals go to the trouble of specifying where each should be used so I would use the equivalent copper (Loctite C5-A, etc.) and aluminum based anti-seize. Optimoly is just a brand-name so if you can find the equivalent than go for it. The tubes (8oz) from Porsche were like $6-9USD and included enough to lube every fastener in several cars so I just ordered them.
Technical Guru
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From: USVI
Originally Posted by Jeremy Pinsly
M12 bolt that attaches bottom of front suspension to wheel bearing carrier
#999-084-623-09 -- M12 x 1.25 locking nut
#999-025-212-09 -- 12.5 x 24mm x 3mm washer
Originally Posted by Jeremy Pinsly
M14 bolt that connects bottom of rear suspension to trailing arm
#999-025-149-02 -- washer
Originally Posted by Jeremy Pinsly
Do you think the dealers will stock those materials for sale to consumers?
#000-043-004-00 Optimoly HT (90g)
I will look for my receipt with the part number for Optimoly TA.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,464
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From: colchester UK
Personally I would never do this without spring compressors, mine were wound down a fair amount, I would say if I would have just let them go they would have taken my head off.
It's just not worth mesing around short cuts on this type of job, especially as it only adds 5 mins tops.
kevin
It's just not worth mesing around short cuts on this type of job, especially as it only adds 5 mins tops.
kevin
