dfinnegan

You can email John at info@jdsporsche.com

pncarrerars

Unless you are going to be using the connector every day why not do what I have done? I have put standard amp pins on the wires (the shell is not standard & not available) & just push them into the female part of the connector. They are a good fit so do not fall out. Takes maybe 60sec to connect up but saves a load of money.

pete '92 964 RS

LeRoux Strydom

I am getting ready to do this. The opto-isolator circuitry is on order, and I already have the software. Does anyone have a pinout of the 19-pin connector so I can identify the K, L, 12V and GND lines, or are they marked on the connector itself?

Laurence Gibbs

I would be interested in your findings with the opto cct. I built one and could not get it working. But that's not to say it wont(may be a simple connection fault during building the cct).When I get the time i will build one using a Max comm chip. There is or was a web site with the pin outs for the socket, do a search it may still be around. If you get stuck I will dig out the info.

robbed666

DIAG Socket pin..........function...........................DME pin
7................................L....................................13
8................................K....................................55
14..............................TACHO O/P......................6
19..............................KNOCK O/P.......................21
15..............................CHECK ENGINE CONTROL...22
12..............................+12 VOLTS.......................--
10..............................GND.................................--

I'm also interested in helping to develop a DIY 'hammer'. A good
opportunity to pool info etc ?

(Sorry about all the ....... text formatting is definately NOT WYSIWYG!)

KirkF

IMHO without a plentiful supply of the connectors it would be hardly worth working on a hammer replacement.

It would be nice to be able to distribute your work amongst all the 964 owners. However most people really dont want to be soldering different interfaces to the back of that panel with the 19 pin connector.

The only solution I could come up with would be to take apart the connector I have, and have a cast made of it to reproduce it in quantity, and then use the 'pins' which are still available from AMP (as mentioned above)

And of course that would be expensive.

Which is the reason why I bought a hammer instead. It was alot easier.

Kirk

Laurence Gibbs

Why on earth do you need the connector? Just place four cables into the socket without the connector. The 19 pin connector is serious overkill for what most people will use the socket for. For the most part K, L +12 gnd are all you need. Other kts's come with a generic lead for exactly that purpose. I would love to hear someone get the opto interface working. I think i may go and gig out all the old info I had. Now where is it?

loot87

Even if I have to push 19 separate pins into a female or vice-versa (and it sounds like you really only need to do 4), there is no way that's worth giving up and dropping $1800 instead. I can't imagine anyone considering a DIY Hammer would be detered simply because of a connector issue.
I'm all in if I can help in any way.

Laurence Gibbs

Some more info based on what I can remember(not much) Our cars use obd1 or a close version of. The interface required needs ideally to be dumb and is basically used to convert the 5v pc signal into the 12v car obd signal and vise versa. The easiest way of doing this is using opto couplers/isolaters there are a couple of circuits on the net and many on ebay. I don't know if the opto circuits produce a "clean " enough signal (someone out there may have already tried) the other way of doing this is by using a comms chip such as those made by maxim or sipex. Just look up the desired 12v to 5v characteristic etc. I do have some software but Its on another pc and I don't know if the person who supplied to me wanted it in the public domain. Worse than that I can't remember who supplied it!
So basically you need a spare pc or laptop an interface (built there around £20-30) far less if you build it yourself. And some software to run on the pc and a serial cable to hook the interface up to the pc. Most people nowadays has a spare pc gathering dust or a laptop so really it's just the software and interface to sort out!

JasonAndreas

I can do this very inexpensively if people were really interested (I've already done it but with a home-made connector). I still have a couple gallons of Dow Corning T4 so we could probably get 50-100 pulls from a mold, easily.

The main problem with using a cheap opto-interface is the non-standard voltage on laptop RS-232 ports. The spec calls for 5v(?) but most are 3.2v. (I have the circuit boards and components for maybe 60 boards). If you were to create a commercial product than USB would be the way to go but that dramatically increases the price and complexity.

The generic lead for the KTS-300 isn't really generic enough for a 964 unless you like alligator clips, i have one and crimped on the AMP pins. The part number for the AMP pins is 962971-1 and minimum order quantities were several thousand (I have about 20 left) and are not available in small lots. The rubber water-proofing plugs are part #828920-1.

The communication "protocol " is nearly the same as the one used by volkswagen, electrically it is ISO-9141:1989.

KirkF

Everyone has their own $$/hour amount that they think a project is worth to them.

Heres what I think:

1. A converter board needs to be built for the L-K signal lines and additional hardware added to bring in the information on pins 14/19/15
2. A program needs to be written to step you through this information in a similar fashion to the Hammer.
3. A reliable connection to the diagnostic plug is required. (And I realise some of you are willing to plug the individual pins in, or solder a new connector to the wiring feeding the connector) I would like to see a real connector that any of us could plug in, no problems and no possibility of error. (ie smoking your DME)

So how many hours to complete this project?

You will also need a hammer and monitor its comms with your interface as it performs functions in your dme/ccu/alarm and reads back results.
(Because unless you are going to make this project do bidirectional communications, its just a code reader which is worthless. It needs to be able to turn on fans/open flaps/reset idle, etc like a hammer does)

If I was going to do the project I would probably use a rabbit or a pic micro to grab the data off the L-K lines and the other pins and encode it, so I could send it all on the serial link. Then I would write a VB program that copied the hammer menu structures to make it easy for everyone to use. And as I said, I would knock off the connector with a plastics molder and get the pins from AMP to put in there.

If you just want a code reader, there is a flashing bulb option or one of the interface designs & software already available out there.

If you dig up your old info, I would be interested in seeing it, because it is an interesting project.


Kirk

JasonAndreas

Add support for another k-line and you will work with every 993 too...

KirkF

Looks like Jason was replying at the same time I was:

I was also thinking of doing the mold that way, (in fact I bought a book on it for another project). Looks like you did a nice job on yours!

Did you use the sipex chip for your interface?

Kirk
p.s.
Here is info I have on socket connections:
Pin Description
1 Labeled as AIRBAG and links to a device labeled GONG RELAY which is only installed with options M215 and M553
2 NC
3 NC
4 NC
5 Labeled as ON/OFF BOARD connects to on board computer (if fitted)
6 NC
7 L LEAD connects to Pin 13 L LEAD on DME - RXD
8 K LEAD connects to Pin 55 K LEAD on DME - TXD
9 NC
10 Labeled TERM 31 connects to TERM 31 of Central Electric
11 NC
12 Labeled TERM 30 connects to TERM 30 of Central Electric
13 Labeled TERM 15 connects to TERM 15 of Central Electric
14 Labeled TD connects to pin 6 of DME and provides feed for rev counter
15 Labeled DME connects to pin 22 Check Engine Control on the DME and to the Check Engine Light on the dash option M027 only
16 NC
17 NC
18 NC
19 Labeled KNOCKING connects to pin 21 on the DME gives +ve pluse on engine knock detection.


Info on DME Codes:

[Trouble Code Descriptions]

[S00]

;Anti-lock/traction control trouble codes
11=Lateral lock valve-No feedback signal from valve to control unit
12=Lateral acceleration sensor short-circuit/break in circuit
13=Lateral acceleration sensor-implausible signal
14=Lateral lock-deviation in regulating values
15=Control unit defective
21=Front left speed sensor
22=Front right speed sensor
23=Rear right speed sensor
24=Rear left speed sensor
31=Front left ABS valve
32=Front right ABS valve
33=Rear axle ABS valve
34=Valve relay
35=Return pump
41=Front-rear differential lock valve
42=Front-rear acceleration sensor short-circuit/break in circuit
43=Longitudinal acceleration sensor-implausible signal
44=Front-rear differential lock control diviations
45=Full differetial locking button


[H00]
;Climate control trouble codes
11=Inside temperature sensor
12=Left mixing chamber temperature sensor
13=Right mixing chamber temperature sensor
14=Evaporator temperature sensor
15=Rear fan temperature sensor
21=Oil cooler temperature sensor
22=Defrost flap motor
23=Footwell flap motor
24=Fresh air flap motor
31=Left mixing flap motor
32=Right mixing flap motor
33=Left heater blower motor
34=Right heater blower motor
41=Condenser blower motor
42=Oil cooler blower motor
43=Rear blower motor speed 1
46=Rear blower motor speed 1
44=Rear blower motor speed 2
47=Rear blower motor speed 2
45=Inside sensor blower motor

[M00]

;Motronic trouble codes

11=DME control unit power supply too high/low
12=Idle speed contact ground short
13=Full load contact ground short
14=Engine temperature sensor
15=Idle speed contact break
21=Air flow sensor
22=Idle speed control
23=Oxygen regulation at stop (intake air leak?)
24=Oxygen sensor
25=Air temperature sensor
31=Knock sensor 1
32=Knock sensor 2
33=Knock computer
34=Hall signal
41=Control unit faulty
43=Tank venting valve
44=Resonance plate
45=Check engine warning lamp
51=Injection valve 1
52=Injection valve 2
53=Injection valve 3
54=Injection valve 4
55=Injection valve 5
56=Injection valve 6

KirkF

Did the 993 use the same 19 pin plug?

Kirk

Eric Kessel

Kirk,
The VB application was written by a Rennlister years ago, instead of a Sipex chip, you could use, say a MAX3222 ( http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX3222-MAX3241.pdf ) chip, with a few minor changes to the diagram that has been floating around, and it does work. The only obvious thing that wasn't implemented was the Idle Adaptation code. The author hasn't been active on the board for a while, but the designer of the interface schematic posts regularly to the 911 list........ I tried contacting the software developer, but never got an answer about posting the application. But I did build two boards, and it works for my 90 C2 to clear DME,CCU, and airbag faults.