Replacing your front hood shocks in 15 minutes (each)
04-27-2009, 12:08 AM
#19
Advanced
I use another handy trick when replacing hood and deck lid shocks. I first thread and secure a piece of mig welding wire through the large hoop ends of the removable clips.
That way, when, not if, when you drop the clip down into the deepest depths of Mordor, you can easily retrieve it. The wire can also be used to position the clip when reinstalling the new shock.
The wire can be used to pull the clip off the pin once you pry up the locking tab.
Try it. You will like it.
That way, when, not if, when you drop the clip down into the deepest depths of Mordor, you can easily retrieve it. The wire can also be used to position the clip when reinstalling the new shock.
The wire can be used to pull the clip off the pin once you pry up the locking tab.
Try it. You will like it.
04-27-2009, 07:11 PM
#21
Still plays with cars.
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Marc great write-up. I copied the thread to DIY 964. Hope you don't mind.
04-28-2009, 12:27 AM
#23
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04-26-2011, 09:29 PM
#26
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Once again, THANKS Marc & the Rennlist forum. Just completed this little project which I was about to abandon before coming here.. Done in 45 minutes or so. Wiped my sweat off the fenders and apologized to the car for calling her all those silly names LOL. BTW, I used the 'Strongarm' brand and it allows you to put the snap lock ring on the cylinder side of the ball mount, so I didn't need to use the wire, could push it down with the same flat screwdiver I popped the old ones off with. Pretty easy doing it even without being able to see it
12-24-2011, 07:44 PM
#27
Thanks for the good write-up, Marc
. The key to this being only a 15-minute job is the long-shafted screwdriver. After I located a 1/8" flat blade with a 10" shaft/handle, the first shock (driver's side) then took about 10 minutes and the second shock only 8 minutes. Monofilament on the clips and anchored to the wipers was a good precaution, too.
. The key to this being only a 15-minute job is the long-shafted screwdriver. After I located a 1/8" flat blade with a 10" shaft/handle, the first shock (driver's side) then took about 10 minutes and the second shock only 8 minutes. Monofilament on the clips and anchored to the wipers was a good precaution, too.
12-25-2011, 03:50 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Very timely resurection of this thread, I am doing this in the next week or so, ( as soon as the shocks get here) and thanks to Marc for the great DIY.
Merry Christmas & best wishes to all in the New Year.
Merry Christmas & best wishes to all in the New Year.
Last edited by crg53; 12-25-2011 at 05:20 PM.
01-01-2012, 02:00 PM
#30
Nordschleife Master
Alright, I just walked in from the garage where I successfully installed my new hood shocks. It took me way longer than 15 mins tho. My hood now flies up w/ comparable ferocity to when it would previously fly down onto my head.
Some things to note.
I think my flat screwdriver was not big enough to successfully pry the lower socket off the car. I ended up using a big flat metal file, covered in tape to prevent abrasion. I would stick it between the car and socket and then use a plier at the top to twist the file and that popped them off.
Another thing to note, and very key. I used the same Weltmeister Hood Lift Shock from AutoMotion.com that Marc used, Part # P902834, $29.99/each, however, the construction of the socket end of the shock differed from what is pictured in Marc's original post and differed from the old shocks I removed from the car.
The socked end is noticeably bigger and more squared off. On the pass. side (right) I did not notice the socket size difference create any installation complications. I didn't even note the difference at all. On the driver's side (left) however, I kept trying to pop the socket in and it would not entirely pop in, which meant the metal clip would never budge w/ the wire hanger method (great technique!). I kept messing with it, thinking I was doing it wrong till I realized it was the same side (side facing the firewall) that wouldn't go into the socket properly. That's when I realized the size difference was causing the socket to bottom out against the car before it was fully inserted. A little grinding with the Dremel to remove extra material and bam, it all worked out perfectly.
So yea, just note the size of the socket end when you get your replacement shocks.
Some things to note.
I think my flat screwdriver was not big enough to successfully pry the lower socket off the car. I ended up using a big flat metal file, covered in tape to prevent abrasion. I would stick it between the car and socket and then use a plier at the top to twist the file and that popped them off.
Another thing to note, and very key. I used the same Weltmeister Hood Lift Shock from AutoMotion.com that Marc used, Part # P902834, $29.99/each, however, the construction of the socket end of the shock differed from what is pictured in Marc's original post and differed from the old shocks I removed from the car.
The socked end is noticeably bigger and more squared off. On the pass. side (right) I did not notice the socket size difference create any installation complications. I didn't even note the difference at all. On the driver's side (left) however, I kept trying to pop the socket in and it would not entirely pop in, which meant the metal clip would never budge w/ the wire hanger method (great technique!). I kept messing with it, thinking I was doing it wrong till I realized it was the same side (side facing the firewall) that wouldn't go into the socket properly. That's when I realized the size difference was causing the socket to bottom out against the car before it was fully inserted. A little grinding with the Dremel to remove extra material and bam, it all worked out perfectly.
So yea, just note the size of the socket end when you get your replacement shocks.