chancecasey

Seems to be something in the air I guess. I began the process about 3 weeks ago - with the wife and 2 very little boys I don't get much time. I wanted to post more pics before now, but honestly, between the rookie-mechanic-boner and lack of ready-charged NiMH batteries I just didn't do it. My plan is to take a LOT more pics once everything is clean. I did, however, pressure wash just about everything now so it's relatively clean - enough for some pics anyway. I'll be replacing just about every piece of gasket material I can without opening up the case if at all possible. I already know the main seal at the flywheel is shot - you should have seen the 1/4" thick coat of oil snot in the tranny housing. The cylinder base o-rings are shot, through-bolts seem to be leaking, the list goes on and on.

Tranny...
(by the way, the little oval/diamond-shaped thingy to the lower right of the axle attachment thingy in the second picture, which had a tray clamp or something else attached to it, if you remove both bolts at once it MIGHT stay on, but with a little pull with your hand, is a GREAT way to instantly dump all your tranny oil if you're in a hurry to get it out. I also highly recommend laying underneath it while you do this. The aroma is really quite unique and drives the women crazy.)

chancecasey

engine on stand...

chancecasey

Adapter? We don't need no stinkin' adapter!!!!

chancecasey

engine removal tool - VERRRRRY sophisticated. I must admit, we DID use a larger cup on the standard floor jack, I think it was about 8" diameter, and I also put a little 3/4" thick oak block under this plywood, so the plywood wouldn't snap in the center, where the cup dishes down and doesn't support it.

chancecasey

All done with 2 standard floor jacks, 4 jack stands, and judicious use of a couple of 2x4's. No bumper or intake manifold removal necessary. Now if I can just get rid of that gas smell in the luggage compartment...


Just kidding!!!

Cupcar#12

ok i gotta ask - (since i will have to do the reassembly is the reverse of disassembly but with out a life, bit)

How are you moving the engine from the floor jack to the engine stand? the thing weighs a ton and i just can't imagine man handling it like a 356 mill.
(i'm buying a sears ATV jack next week, but...)

chancecasey

Doh! I took a very small bit of denting on the heat exchangers on the flywheel side during the transfer. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything in the process, but honestly the denting is very minor - next time I'll throw down some old carpeting instead of doing it on the bare concrete.

Engine on jack, the front perched on the cup/plywood part, rear perched near the handle end of the jack.

Attach the attachment part of the stand.

Slide the stand part onto the attachment part (the locking pin of the stand I used won't stay in upside down, no biggie, just hold it up) At this point the stand is upside down, engine is still on jack.

Here's the part where you'll need a helper - neither of you need to be particularly strong - one person pulls back on the stand, as if loading a hand-truck or "dolly", while the other person lifts the rear part of the engine. The leverage of the stand and someone else lifting on the far end of the engine make it really not difficult. As you tilt back, the engine will slide off the plywood/cup (control the speed!) and plant on the heat exchangers. As you continue to tilt back, you'll be off the exchangers and on the end of a round pipe (opposite end of the attachment part of the stand) Now, you both need to be extremely cognizant of balance here, as you're perched on a single round pivot point. Fortunately, the engine is very well balanced weight-wise, so as long as you are paying attention, you can do the 90 degree rotation so that you end up perched on the aforementioned pivot point and the bottom cross-member part of the stand. The engine will be vertical at this point.

Grab the top of the bottom parallel member of the stand, the part with the wheel at the end, which should be pointing straight up, and use the leverage to tilt back another 90 degrees. Also be aware that once the wheels of the cross member make contact, it will want to move, so judicious use of your foot on the cross member helps here. Don't let rotation accelerate and slam into place - control the rotation as much as possible. One helper grabbing the bottom of the engine, providing mostly balance and speed-of-rotation control, is sufficient. Voila!

I'm sure someone can provide a better method which is exchanger-hazard free, but I don't know what it would be. This is not for the faint of heart - it was definitely an adrenaline rush - but it turned out fine I think. I'll post pictures of the exhangers later. Again, for the record I guess I can't recommend this, because I'm sure it could potentially be bad being on the exchangers even for just a second or two - and if some yahoo does this and drops an engine on their foot don't sue me - I am not recommending it, I have no knowledge, I am no expert.

Geoffrey

If you are taking it down as far as the case, there really isn't much more time in splitting the cases to inspect the insides and replace the bearings (depending on mileage). Don't be afraid of the case halves leaking. As long as you properly apply the Loctite 574 sealant, the case will not leak.

Wachuko

That is easy for you to say...

Wow... all these folks dropping their engines... I have done a 951 rebuilt but never thought about tackling the 964... split the case! scares the crap out of me... well.. that really worries me is dealing with the timing chains and the lack of any special tools that might be required for a complete rebuilt on a 964...

Anyway, I hope I don't have to deal with something like this for a long, long, long time...