Power Steering seal leak
#1
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I have a definite leak from the o-ring or seal at the end of the cam at the power steering drive. I have 2 questions.
1. Can you replace the seal and o-ring with the motor in the car?
2. If you can, does anyone have a procedure how to do it.
I have stripped parts to do a valve adjustment, so I think this would be a good time to do the seal o-ring work if you can do it with the motor in the car.
Thanks for your response!
-CKKrause
1. Can you replace the seal and o-ring with the motor in the car?
2. If you can, does anyone have a procedure how to do it.
I have stripped parts to do a valve adjustment, so I think this would be a good time to do the seal o-ring work if you can do it with the motor in the car.
Thanks for your response!
-CKKrause
#2
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CK
You can reseal it in the car. You need to jack your car high enough to gain good access to the rear of the engine. You will need to lower the engine a little. It is a job but if you can do a valve adjust, you can do this job.
You can reseal it in the car. You need to jack your car high enough to gain good access to the rear of the engine. You will need to lower the engine a little. It is a job but if you can do a valve adjust, you can do this job.
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I just did mine the other day!
You will most likely make a mess with the power steering fluid, it's a given...
You don't need to lower the engine.
Bottom of Car Preps
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove Secondary Muffler.
4. Remove Secondary Muffler Bracket from front of engine.
5. Disconnect 25mm rubber oil supply hose in front of Power Steering Pump (PSP).
6. Remove flat PSP belt cover. (Three 6mm bolts)
7. Remove center bolt on drive sprocket to remove sprocket. (Note that this has no keyway.)
7a. Remove small odd shaped metal engine tin in front of PSP case.
Top of Car Preps
8. Remove air cleaner cover and element.
9. Remove top two allan head nuts from driven end of Power Steering Pump.
10. Remove PSP belt cover (Black Plastic, held on by above).
11. Remove two more hex nuts below the first two allan head nuts.
12. Line engine area with rags to absorb PS Fluid.
13. Siphon Power Steering Fluid from reservoir.
14. Remove clamp around PS Reservoir.
15. Loosen hose clamp at pump enough to rotate the hose with the reservoir still attached.
16. You may need to disconnect the fuel line to allow the pump to come free.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the pump from the car completely, I do it for better access and to clean up the mess I have made.
17. Remove the Banjo Bolt (Hollow Bolt) on the PSP pressure output line on PSP.
Case Removal Bottom of Car
18. Loosen three 6mm bolts from inside the cover.
19. Walk the cover off the engine.
20. Remove lip seal from cover and clean in soapy water. Simple Green works real well.
21. Install new seal with some hardening sealant (In this case I like good old Permatex or Yamabond Case Sealant from Yamaha Motorcycle Dealer.)
Note: I used non-OEM parts because the OEM parts were not made of Viton. Viton is a higher temperature material than the standard Neoprene rubber.
OEM Part Numbers if you must:
999.113.463.40 Seal [30mm x 42mm x 7mm]
999.707.293.40 O-Ring [40mm x 4mm]
Reassembly
22. Reassemble in reverse order. Caution when installing the PSP case. Keep it straight during installation to protect the lip seal. One can damage it during installation! I speak from experience…
23. Torque bolt on drive sprocket.
Start-Up
24. Caution, run engine and monitor PS Fluid level and keep it full. About 30 seconds on the first start-up to ensure you don’t cavitate the PSP.
Best of Luck, Keith
[quote]Originally posted by ckkrause:
<strong>I have a definite leak from the o-ring or seal at the end of the cam at the power steering drive. I have 2 questions.
1. Can you replace the seal and o-ring with the motor in the car?
2. If you can, does anyone have a procedure how to do it.
I have stripped parts to do a valve adjustment, so I think this would be a good time to do the seal o-ring work if you can do it with the motor in the car.
Thanks for your response!
-CKKrause</strong><hr></blockquote>
You will most likely make a mess with the power steering fluid, it's a given...
You don't need to lower the engine.
Bottom of Car Preps
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove Secondary Muffler.
4. Remove Secondary Muffler Bracket from front of engine.
5. Disconnect 25mm rubber oil supply hose in front of Power Steering Pump (PSP).
6. Remove flat PSP belt cover. (Three 6mm bolts)
7. Remove center bolt on drive sprocket to remove sprocket. (Note that this has no keyway.)
7a. Remove small odd shaped metal engine tin in front of PSP case.
Top of Car Preps
8. Remove air cleaner cover and element.
9. Remove top two allan head nuts from driven end of Power Steering Pump.
10. Remove PSP belt cover (Black Plastic, held on by above).
11. Remove two more hex nuts below the first two allan head nuts.
12. Line engine area with rags to absorb PS Fluid.
13. Siphon Power Steering Fluid from reservoir.
14. Remove clamp around PS Reservoir.
15. Loosen hose clamp at pump enough to rotate the hose with the reservoir still attached.
16. You may need to disconnect the fuel line to allow the pump to come free.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the pump from the car completely, I do it for better access and to clean up the mess I have made.
17. Remove the Banjo Bolt (Hollow Bolt) on the PSP pressure output line on PSP.
Case Removal Bottom of Car
18. Loosen three 6mm bolts from inside the cover.
19. Walk the cover off the engine.
20. Remove lip seal from cover and clean in soapy water. Simple Green works real well.
21. Install new seal with some hardening sealant (In this case I like good old Permatex or Yamabond Case Sealant from Yamaha Motorcycle Dealer.)
Note: I used non-OEM parts because the OEM parts were not made of Viton. Viton is a higher temperature material than the standard Neoprene rubber.
OEM Part Numbers if you must:
999.113.463.40 Seal [30mm x 42mm x 7mm]
999.707.293.40 O-Ring [40mm x 4mm]
Reassembly
22. Reassemble in reverse order. Caution when installing the PSP case. Keep it straight during installation to protect the lip seal. One can damage it during installation! I speak from experience…
23. Torque bolt on drive sprocket.
Start-Up
24. Caution, run engine and monitor PS Fluid level and keep it full. About 30 seconds on the first start-up to ensure you don’t cavitate the PSP.
Best of Luck, Keith
[quote]Originally posted by ckkrause:
<strong>I have a definite leak from the o-ring or seal at the end of the cam at the power steering drive. I have 2 questions.
1. Can you replace the seal and o-ring with the motor in the car?
2. If you can, does anyone have a procedure how to do it.
I have stripped parts to do a valve adjustment, so I think this would be a good time to do the seal o-ring work if you can do it with the motor in the car.
Thanks for your response!
-CKKrause</strong><hr></blockquote>
#4
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Thank you both! It turns out that I did not have to lower the engine or pull the steering pump. However, it is pretty cramped in there, so I took about 4 hours, not including the removal of a number of engine parts in preparing to do the valve adjust, to replace the o-ring and seal at the end of the camshaft. Thanks again for your help, I will finish the valve adjust tonight!
-CKKrause
-CKKrause
#5
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I meant to create a new thread . . . moved content of post to new thread as planned.
Last edited by dfinnegan; 09-11-2006 at 10:49 PM. Reason: posted to the wrong place!